2005-2010 Mustang GT SR Performance Underdrive Pulleys Review & Install

Hey, guys. It’s Joe from AmericanMuscle. And today, we’re gonna be taking a closer
look at the SR Performance Underdrive Pulleys, fitting all ’05 to ’10 GTs. This is gonna be a great option for the bolt-on
three-valve owner out there that’s at the end of their build list and they’re looking
to get every last bit of horsepower out of their 4.6. So what do we have going on here with the
SR Performance underdrive pulleys? We’ll over here we have a brand new crank
pulley that is going to be smaller in diameter than the factory one and over here we have
our new water pump pulley that’s gonna be a little bit bigger in diameter than the factory
one. In the middle here we have a brand new bolt
for the crank pulley. Now in order for us to understand what these
bad boys are gonna do for your Mustang, we have to understand basically how these work
first and how these are going to improve off of factory. Now pulleys in general, they’re there to power
the accessories on your motor, that’s gonna be stuff such as your water pump, your alternator,
your AC condenser, and they’re going to cost a small amount of horsepower in order to do
so, otherwise known as parasitic drag. This is why you at least typically don’t see
AC on Formula 1 cars because it would cost a little bit of extra horsepower to run it. Now nobody wants to lose their AC just to
gain 15 horsepower, that wouldn’t make sense unless you’re really, really in the track
days. But with something like this, by downsizing
our crank pulley a little bit and upping the size of our water pump pulley, we can lessen
that parasitic drag by basically underdriving the accessories on our motor. This isn’t going to be a huge horsepower gain,
but like I said earlier if you have all the bolt-ons done in your three-valve, you’re
looking for something to do to net just to add that little bit extra, this is gonna be
a great pickup. Definitely a great supporting mod end of the
build type of stuff here but a great mod none the less. Now another huge benefit of these is they’re
also made out of a lightweight aluminum, so that’s going to lessen a little bit of rotating
mass and if you’re doing any track days, that’s exactly what you want. It’s not gonna be a huge amount like an aluminum
flywheel or lightweight driveshaft would give you but less rotating mass is always a good
thing. This is gonna help your motor spin up to redline
as fast as possible. Again, not a huge game but something that
consider. These are also SFI-certified and there’s no
tune required n order to get the gains that something like this would give you. Pricing is gonna drop in right around 160
bucks and that’s really not a bad price to pay when it comes to netting some free horsepower
that was there to begin with, it’s just reclaiming it back from those accessories. So this is definitely a good pick up again
if you’re at the end of your build. The install here, albeit, this is not your
regular old cold air intake, something that easy, this is gonna be a little bit tougher
than that, but not too bad, you could definitely accomplish this in a couple of hours in the
driveway if you come with the right tools. I’m gonna give it a two out of three wrenches
on our difficulty meter. I think you can get this done in about two
to three hours if you take a look at this video and come with all the right knowledge. So without any further ado, let me show you
what tools you’ll need and then how it’s done. Tools required for this install are going
to include a breaker bar, cut-off wheel, die grinder, flathead, safety glasses, pulley
removal tool, RTV, torque wrench, 18, 10 and 8-millimeter sockets, an impact and ratchets. So we’re gonna start with some disassembly
in our engine bay coolant reservoir, that’s gonna have to get disconnected. Power steering reservoir, that’s gonna have
to go, also our intake tube here, that is going to be the easiest part that’s going
to have to go as well. To loosen that up the clamps are an 8-millimeter
socket and we’re gonna start right there. We’re gonna start by disconnecting our breather
hose and that is just gonna be this green tab on the bottom. If you push down and pull over on that, that
will loosen up like so. Then we can come in with the old ratchet here
and loosen up the clamp on our throttle body. Again, 8-millimeter socket. Over here by the airbox we have one more clamp,
again, 8 millimeters. And then we can pull this whole thing off
just like so. Next up our coolant reservoir, two 8-millimeter
bolts to loosen that up. Hold onto those because you are gonna need
them later obviously. Then we can just pull this up, remove that
hose and put it over to your by the airbox. Power steering reservoir, that is another
8-millimeter bolt. And again hold onto that, then we can pull
that up off of our fan and that can just kind of float there for now. I’m just gonna tuck it up by the airbox a
little bit, try to hold that in place right there. Next up we have to get rid of this fan shroud
and fan assembly but we have to disconnect it first, this plug right here, there’s a
release tab over on this side. However, if it’s never been apart on your
three-valve before can require the use of a screwdriver. There are two bolts that hold the fan on at
the top, one on each side, again both 8 millimeters then you can pull the fan assembly out. Here we have a clear shot at our water pump
pulley and while the belt is still installed, we’re gonna use that to hold it still while
we crank the four bolts loose. And these are 10 millimeters by the way. We’re gonna loosen up our crank pulley while
we’re down here as well. This is an 18-millimeter socket. Now we can get rid of the belt and in order
to do that, half-inch drive breaker bar and then off the top. With that out of the way, I’m just going to
get rid of the rest of the 10s on our water pump pulley and that is uninstalled. Removing the crank pulley however is not as
simple. You’re gonna need to find one of these pulley
remover tools whether you buy one from Harbor Freight, rent one from Pep Boys or AutoZone,
pick one of these up because you are gonna need it to get this guy off, the tension is
just too much. You could see the one we have here, it just
has that lip that goes around this lip on the pulley and then we can use a socket to
basically press against a bolt we have installed into our crankshaft and this pulley is going
to come with us when we turn this socket. And obviously these arms here can be a little
bit of a pain to set up, so I went ahead and did that off-camera. And I’m just gonna remove the bolt I used
as a standoff and we can pull out our pulley. So now that we have everything off of our
Mustang, now is the perfect time to stop down, put these two sets of pulleys on the table
next to each other and highlight some key differences between these two. The biggest difference is going to be the
sizing. Over here, you see our two crank pulleys,
the stock one is gonna be bigger, the aftermarket one is gonna be a little bit smaller. Now these are going to be considered driving
pulleys so our engine is spinning at the same speed. One rotation of this is going to spin more
of the belt because it’s bigger in diameter than one rotation of this which is going to
be spinning the belt a smaller amount because it’s smaller in diameter, less distance for
the belt to go one rotation all the way around this thing. So the difference here, bigger is going to
be faster, smaller is gonna be a little bit slower. And again that’s there to reduce parasitic
drag. Now weight is also a difference between these
two, like I mentioned earlier, this is aluminum, this is cast iron. The weight difference is small. Like I said, it is rotating math, so every
little bit of weight you can shave off is good. Next, we can and talk about our water pump
pulleys and these are going to be a little bit different. The pulleys over here, our crank pulleys,
these are driving the belt while our water pump pulleys, these are being driven by the
belts. So these are gonna be similar to a supercharger. The smaller you go on these, the faster it
is going to spin the water pump and same thing goes for all the other driven accessories. So this is our stock one over here, the bigger
you go the slower this is going to spin. And if I go like this you can just see how
much bigger that that aftermarket water pump pulley is gonna be. Same thing over here we have aluminum and
this is going to be a drastic difference in terms of weight. The aluminum is a lot lighter than the factory
stuff when it comes to the water pump pulley. So that pretty much sums up the differences
between these two. There’s one thing we have to take care of
before we move on and install our new crank pulley and that is RTV. We’re gonna have to apply a little bead of
this into the keyway to make sure everything seals up correctly and no oil escape from
that keyway. So now we can do our install. We’re gonna start with the crank pulley, we’re
just gonna line up the keyway. That actually pushed right into place, a lot
of times that will put up a little bit of a fight. That longer bolt in the kit is included so
that if this does fight, you could throw a washer on there and use that to sort of pull
this into this position and then you can install the factory bolt. Ours slid right on so we’re just gonna install
the factory bolt. We’re gonna wait to torque down our crank
pulley until the belt is on, hopefully that gives us a little bit of friction to fight
against to tighten that down all the way. We want to make sure we hit our torque spec
with that one. But with that said, we’re gonna move on to
our water pump pulley and while it looked easy coming off, going on is a little bit
tougher. You can see the cut-off wheel in my hand here,
reason being there’s a stud in the way that’s gonna have to go to make room for the larger
water pump pulley. So we’re gonna cut that off, clean up the
stud a little bit, and then our water pump pulley should go right back on. Safety glasses for this one guys. This guy has got to go, just barely not enough
clearance for our water pump pulley. That looks good, so we’re gonna clean that
up and install our pulley. So now we can put on our water pump pulley
and we’re just gonna secure that with the factory 10-millimeter bolts. Now that we have all of our pulleys applied,
we’re just gonna loop in our belt. So before we put our Mustang back together,
we still have to torque down that crank bolt, there’s a little bit of a process to that. First thing’s first, you’re gonna need a torque
wrench because the first thing you’re gonna need to do is torque that bolt to 66 foot-pounds. Now once you hit that 66, we’re gonna lose
in a full 360 degrees and then you can torque it to 37 foot-pounds and then you add another
90 degrees quarter turn just to make sure it’s seated properly, you’re gonna need an
18-millimeter socket to do so. So our first torque spec, that’s gonna be
66 foot-pounds. Hopefully, these don’t spin. Right on the edge of it spinning. Then we can come off the full turn. Then we can lower the torque wrench to 37
and then we’re gonna give that one more quarter turn just to make sure that’s tight and this
is exactly how Ford recommends you tighten this down. Then we can start to rebuild by dropping back
in our fan and we can secure that with the two 8-millimeter bolts, one in each corner. Don’t forget to plug this back in as well. Now after that, we can secure our power steering
tank to the fan shroud. Again, this is an 8-millimeter bolt. And we could do the same exact thing for our
coolant reservoir as well. Last but certainly not least, we have to do
our intake tube that’s gonna go around the airbox and the throttle body. We can tighten down the clamps with an 8-millimeter
socket but also we’re gonna click in this breather hose as well. Guys, that is gonna do it for the SR Performance
Underdrive Pulleys, fitting all ’05 to ’10 three-valve GTs. As always, thank you guys so much for watching. Subscribe for more like this one. Keep it right here at AmericanMuscle for all
things Mustang.

4 thoughts on “2005-2010 Mustang GT SR Performance Underdrive Pulleys Review & Install

  1. Shop these SR Performance Underdrive Pulleys: https://muscle.am/2nVxDZG

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