Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. And today we’re taking a closer look at and
installing the SR Performance Rear Shock available for all 2005 to 2014 Mustangs. You should be checking this out if you’re
in need of a replacement at the rear end for your factory shocks because we all know after
a while they start to get worn out and blow out. If that’s your case or you’re really unsure,
your rear shocks will start to tell you that they’re in need of replacement if you’re getting
excessive squatting upon launches or excessive squatting upon taking off from a red light. You’ll also know it’s starting to go if you’re
having a really uncomfortable ride at the rear end on some of that rougher terrain or
even on smooth pavement, it might be a good time to swap them out. Now if you’re looking for a replacement, why
not go with an upgrade, right? We all want a little bit more performance-savvy
products, we all want a little bit better handling and the SR Performance shock here
does all that but on a nice tight budget. This one here comes in only around 50 bucks
and I will say they are sold individually, so if you’re looking to replace the whole
rear end, it’s gonna be a 100 bucks total, you want to pick them up separately. Now these replacing your factory shocks is
definitely gonna be that upgrade in the stiffness and sporty department. You’re gonna get better cornering abilities,
you’re also gonna get slightly better handling. It’s just all around gonna be a nice comfortable
ride for a daily driver but still gonna give a little bit more of a sporty performance
feel to them. This has a twin-tube gas-pressurized design,
it’s finished in a nice gloss black finish as opposed to your factory mat black. We’ll take a closer look at them side by side
later on although appearance-wise there isn’t too much of a difference aside from the gloss
black and the SR Performance sticker. I will say attached to that is going to be
your poly bushing on the bottom, you’re also gonna get two separate bushings, two separate
washers and a nylon lock nut for the top. Of course, a bushing and washer will be under
the vehicle and a bushing and washer, as well as the nut, will be in the trunk. Now this guy here does come with the dust
shield, you don’t have to worry about taking off your old one and swapping it over. Everything is good to go right out of the
box, you’ll just be reusing your factory bottom shock bolt. Now as far as this process, you are gonna
have to lower your rear sway bar, it’s very, very simple. Two bolts are gonna be holding on the top
sway bar end links. We’re gonna unbolt those, pull it down, and
it’ll give you access to that bottom shock bolt. We’ll start things off in the trunk and I’m
gonna walk you through every single step of the process here. I’m giving it one out of three wrenches on
our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle it in the driveway at home,
no real modifications necessary, it’s a simple bolt-on install. Now if you’re looking to do this, you want
to have simple hand tools on deck, you are gonna need a torque wrench to make sure you’re
torquing down those bolts properly. It also might be helpful to have a breaker
bar on deck because they tend to be pretty tight. I’m gonna walk you through the process, what
do you say we get started? We got our 2014 on the lift, let’s get to
it. Tools used in this install include an impact
gun, 13-millimeter deep socket, 15-millimeter short and deep socket, 18-millimeter deep
socket, dead blow hammer, panel removal tool, torque wrench, 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench,
a regular 15 wrench works as well or a ratchet and a 15 socket and a breaker bar. All right, first up here, guys, you got to
pop open your trunk because we do have to disconnect the shock from the inside of the
trunk. So once you pop that open we have to remove
this entire trim panel back by your trunk latch, top left and top right, there’s these
little twist clips. What you’re basically gonna do is just finger-twist
that guy off and it comes straight back. Now do the same thing on the other side. Now there’s two push pin clips right underneath
of that in this little indent, there’s one here and there’s one on the other side, grab
a panel tool and pull it off. All right, so on our left side I got my panel
removal tool, this isn’t required but I think it makes life a little easier, just pry up
underneath and pull back. All right, so we got that a little bit disconnected
here, pull straight back. Same thing on the other side. All right, now on our carpet, there’s a couple
of those push pin clips here, one on this side, one on that side. We don’t have one on our left side, so just
grab them both off using that panel tool again and then we can lift this trim panel off. All right, so at this point, we can remove
this entire trim panel on the back here where our trunk latch is. Grab from both sides or from the center, pull
up and remove it from the vehicle. Now keep in mind, guys, on the back of this,
you may have a little trunk light. If you do, you’re gonna want to pinch and
disconnect that harness. All right, so now the top of our shock is
all the way in the back behind this liner, so we have to pull that back. We don’t necessarily have to remove it, we
just need to pull it back enough to expose the top shock nut. There’s one more push pin clip here, this
little Christmas tree clip, and then on top of that, there’s a bolt we have to remove
and then we can peel it back. So grab that panel tool and just pull this
push pin off. And if you’re doing the shocks on both sides
of your Mustang, of course, you just want to repeat this on the other side. But just for the video purposes, we’re gonna
be showing you this driver side. All right, so now we can grab our socket and
get this bolt off. Grab a 13 socket and remove this bolt. All right, so I like to put it down here. Once that’s taken care of, we can start removing
this liner, pull that guy back. So once you have that out of the way, you’re
exposing the top of your shock. Now what you’re gonna do is grab a 15-millimeter
deep socket and remove this nut. The nut and this spacer here are all in one
piece, so they’ll come off together. So we got that off and you can see here it’s
the spacer, nut, and bushing all in one piece. And here you can see the shock comes through
this stud. As we put the car in the air, this will start
to disconnect and lower down. And all we have left is the one shock bolt
underneath the vehicle, so let’s get the car up in the air. All right, so we got our vehicle up in the
air and as you can see we’re of course using a lift. If you’re working on the ground, you want
to position your hydraulic jack under the rear differential or the pumpkin and jack
it up from there, it’ll make life a lot easier and I’ll explain why in just a second. Really what we’re gonna do at this point is
unbolt the bottom of our shock. Now the shock bolt is tucked in here but our
sway bar is blocking the path to that bolt. The bolt wouldn’t back all the way out because
the sway bar is in the way. So because of that, we have to unbolt our
sway bar links which are up here. We’ll have to do both sides, this side and
our passenger, and from there we can swing our sway bar down out of the way, unbolt our
shock, swap it out, and then bolt our sway bar back up. Now it sounds like a lot of extra steps but
they’re necessary in order to get that shock bolt out safely. What we’re gonna do now is support our rear
diff with a pole jack because we’re on a lift. Like I said, if you’re on the ground, you
can just put your hydraulic jack or what you’re using right under that differential and that’ll
be sufficient. Because we’re in the air on a lift I’m gonna
grab a pole jack. All right, so really we’re just supporting
that, I’m gonna put a little bit more pressure on it. So now that we have that supported I’m gonna
unbolt our sway bar. All right, so I’m gonna use a long 15-millimeter
ratcheting wrench, you can use just a simple ratchet and socket if you’d like. We’re gonna work this guy off. All right, so once you get that bolt out,
the end link here is gonna dislodge. Can do the same thing on the other side. All right, with those two bolts out of the
way, the sway bar can swing down and give us room to get this bolt out. All right, so now we can take a 15-millimeter
socket and remove this bolt. Now keep in mind, guys, since we didn’t take
our wheel off, this nut here may fall and hit the wheel barrel. We don’t really want to scratch our wheel,
so put your hand in there if you are keeping your wheel in place just to make sure that
the nut doesn’t fall down. All right, so we got the nut, really just
pulling out that bolt and bringing down our shock. So we got our factory shock off of our ’14
GT and in my left hand here is our SR Performance rear shock. Want to take you through some of the similarities
and differences here, and obviously this isn’t an appearance part but just to talk about
the appearance of the two really quickly. The factory shock is black, has that dust
shield on it, it’s pretty dull, it’s more of a matte black, this is a bit glossier and
I also think it’s a bit girthier or as well. I know I can hear the YouTube comments already. This guy is a little bit thicker, it’s gonna
have a little bit more of a sporty suspension feel, a little bit stiffer if you will. This guy here has that same twin-tube gas-pressurized
design. It’s gonna fit exactly the same and as you
can see it’s already got pretty much the same exact bushing on the bottom. The bushing I think does have a little bit
of a higher quality, the polyurethane bushing there with the SR Performance one, it won’t
wear out as quickly as your factory stuff would. Now what I want to talk about is the top here,
I’m gonna put the factory guy down. Looking at our new SR Performance shock, you
have a little bit of a different system up here. What we do have is a nylon lock nut on the
top, a flat washer or spacer here, spacer’s curved at the top, flat on the bottom. We’ll take a look at the details of why that
matters just a little bit. We’ve also got two individual bushings and
then another spacer on the bottom. What do you want to basically do is take off
the bushing, spacer and nut that I just took off and just remain with this. All right, so there’s a spacer on the bottom,
flat side facing up, and then the bushing here with that notch facing up. So at this point, we’re ready to install our
shock. Basically doing everything in the reverse
order, we’re gonna use the factory bolts here at the bottom but keep in mind you have all
that new hardware on the top. All right, when it comes time to install your
shock, you want to make sure you’re putting the stud through the hole in the vehicle,
back up into the trunk, and then line up the bottom. All right, so we’re just feeding that guy
into place and then lining up this bottom portion. For the bottom, I’m gonna put this factory
bolt right back through going the same direction. And from there take that nut, feed it through,
and again, I know it’s tough to see, we still have our wheel on, but I’m just gonna thread
this guy in by hand a couple of threads. We’re gonna grab our 15 socket and tighten
that down. All right, so at this point, you want to grab
a torque wrench and torque down that bolt to about 85 foot-pounds. Perfect. What we’re gonna do now is swing our sway
bar up into place. All right, so getting our sway bar up into
place, again, you want to make sure both sides are being aligned properly. This side wasn’t going up far enough, so what
we’re doing is using a pole jack, and we just push it up to align the holes. Grab your factory bolt and put that guy through. Of course, grab the nut, the factory nut,
you’re gonna thread this guy in. I’m gonna thread it all the way in by hand,
and then we’re gonna finish it off with our ratcheting wrench. Once you have that nice and snug, repeat for
the other side, and then we’ll torque them both down. All right, now again, this guy is just gonna
be 85 foot-pounds, so I got my torque wrench here, torque it down. All right, so we’re pretty much done underneath
the car, let’s get our pole jack out of the way, or again, if you’re on the ground, get
your hydraulic jack out of the way, let’s put our car back on the ground, tighten it
up from in the trunk. All right, now that we’re in the trunk, you
see the new stud coming through at the top of our shock, I’m gonna put our bushing on. The new bushing in the kit, we’re gonna put
our flat washer on. And then finally the 18-millimeter nylon lock
nut. Grab your deep 18 socket and tighten that
down. All right, now we can grab our 15 bolt, put
it through up top, grab our 15-millimeter socket and tighten it down. All right, so now it’s our back panel trim
by our trunk latch off. Now if you remember, ours had this light,
we’re gonna plug that guy back in. And then you want to make sure these two bottom
feet of that trim have to go underneath of this floorboard. Just gonna lightly pick up on that guy, slide
her under. There was one push pin clip here, so I’m gonna
put that guy back in and that’s gonna retain that. Now we can work on the trim panel here. We have a Christmas tree clip at the bottom
on both sides. And then finally, these little plastic retainer
clips at the top. All right now these thread on, so I’m just
gonna pop it onto the stud and then give it a twist, tighten her down. Same thing on the other side. All right, guys, when that last thing is in
place, you’re good to go. Well, guys, that’s gonna wrap up my review
and install for the SR Performance Rear Shock available for all ’05 to ’14 Mustangs. You can pick up your SR Performance shock
exclusively right here at americanmuscle.com.

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