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(upbeat instrumental music) – [Narrator] Hey guys, what do you mean you’re not yet using a power metre? You’re kidding right? You’re riding, seriously,
for time against a clock and you’re not using a power metre? All right, look I know many of you don’t want to use a power metre, you want to concentrate on
your own like grunge-based, old-school training, that’s fine. But the most frequently asked question of Fast Fitness Tips is which
power metre shall I buy? Now for sure, there’s a lot of old-school, secondhand power metres
out there on the market, most notably Quarq, Stages, PowerTap. Here at Fast Fitness Tips
we’ve got two Powertaps, we’ve got the Favero bePro as well. So I would vouch for those old
Powertaps as a training tool. Not only are they reading
power, also cadence, also speed they’re a great training tool if you can be bothered
to change the rear wheel and put that rear wheel on. Obviously these days where
the disc-based wheels you are less and less likely to pick up something that’s compatible. So let’s assume you’re in the
market for a new power metre, I’m gonna try and answer
the question today, which new power metre should I buy? Well, a good starting place
if you wanna compare them, I’ll go on to DC Rainmaker’s site, take the one you’re interested in here, for example Favero bePro,
Garmin Vector, Powertap C1, Powertap P1, Stages Power Metre, it’ll give you a nice comparison chart, well formatted of the
differences between them. But let’s say you want
to pick up a bargain, where you gonna head for? Well, a good place to start
if you wanna dual power metre, dual, by dual I mean is
reading left and right power, independently, so you get this
left and right leg balance. Of course, it’s extremely
arguable whether that’s useful as a training tool. Ignoring that for a
second, it will improve the overall accuracy of course, of your power reading if
you have left and right, independent readings. Before I forget, some words on accuracy. Yes there is a difference between true left and
right power measurement and estimated left and
right power measurement. For example, with the
Powertap C1 Chainring, although it is providing
left and right data, basically does that with some fancy math, some fancy extrapolation
of where the crank on and the chainring is, the orientation in relation to where the
power’s being put down. To get true left and right power, obviously you need entirely
independent sensors, I use strain gauges, left and right. Which you clearly have with the left and right
pedal power system, such as the Assioma, the Garmin Vector or the Powertap P1 where you
buy both left and right pedals. Also the Verve Infocrank
does measure left and right with the indwelling sensors
built-in to the crank hole. Unlike stages, where
the stages strain gauge are attached to the outside, so Verve Infocrank claims higher accuracy. But on that note they also have
a higher sampling frequency so they’re getting data more frequently across the pedal stroke. So Verve is saying they’re
sampling to 256 hertz, whereas ROTOR INpower is using 200 hertz. The new SRM’s using 200 hertz, whereas Power2Max, Powertap, Quarq, all using 60 hertz,
more rough approximation to what’s going on and using
a highly accurate measure you can work out things
like pedal smoothness here or you can work out things
like torque efficiency. However, in the real world
it doesn’t mean to say that the power metres
which are extrapolating left and right power or have
a lower sampling frequency are necessarily inaccurate, it’s just their technology
is marginally worse. And they tend to be of
course cheaper, as a result. So some of these prices
are gonna be in UK Pounds. Some of them are gonna be U.S. Dollars. So I’ll try and list them
all in the description below. So a good starting place
then would Powertap C1. This is a chainring based power system where it may or may not be compatible with your existing spider, i.e., the chainrings
on your bike right now. So if you want head over to
Powertap Compatibility Chart and scroll down and see
if your existing spider is compatible with the
Powertaps that you want. If it is compatible you could be in luck because the Powertap
C1 is currently on sale at probikekit.co.uk for 499.99 and is retailing at 579.00 and in fact if you put in the code which we’ll supply you below, but it’s ALEX/R1ED, you get £25 off that for 484.99 which is a pretty good price for a crank-based, dual
reading power metre. In the U.S. it’s 699 RP. But you can pick it up on eBay and a number of reputable sellers, selling it for 609.00. A quick heads-up, the
additional weight of the C1 is one of the lightest additional weights, if you’re gonna put a
power metre on your bike. It’s only about 150 gms additional, so it’s reliable, it’s accurate. Personally I don’t think
it’s very attractive, but you know some of the power metres aren’t very attractive, but nonetheless it’s only 150
gms and a pretty good price. Now if you don’t want
to go down the changing your cranks and chainrings option, of course you can get a
pedal based power metre. First one on to the market or one of the early ones was
of course, Garmin Vector. It was extremely expensive
when it came out, I believe it was 1,499.00. It went down to 1,100 then, but currently it’s on sale at probikekit for 806.99, which is a pretty good price for the dual, left and right reading, Garmin Vector 2, that’s generation 2 with those quirks of the
pods sorted out a bit. If you’re on a budget, you may go for the single-sided reading and that extrapolates
what you’re power would be with dual, it’s not entirely as accurate, but it makes a pretty good guess of it. And to be honest you
can train perfectly well with a unilateral, one-sided power metre. The Garmin Vector 2S,
the single-sided version, is going on sale reduced
from 629.00 to 494.99. In the U.S. that’s
still around about $600. Now if you want to go cheaper than that you’ve got a couple of options. Now the Powertap P1 of
course is it’s big rival, it’s simpler to instal. It’s arguably to simpler
to change the batteries, because they’re the AAA
batteries on the P1, are user changeable. Now we can get you a good
deal on that right now because if you head back to probikekit, not only is it on sale at
939.99 for the dual-sided, but if you enter the code that’s down here and I don’t know how
long that’s gonna be on, you’ll get an extra 10% off. That’s nothing to do
with Fast Fitness Tips, it’s a code for everyone, PTAP10, will bring that price down to 845.99. And as it happens, that’s the same price as it’s retailing in the
U.S., right about $1,049, new sealed box, retail on eBay. Now if you want to single-sided version that’s called the Powertap P1S and again, we can find
you a great deal on that. The best deal right now is
this 550.00 reduced to 469.89, but again, this code PTAP10
does work on the Powertap P1S, bringing it down to a
brilliant price of 422.99, that is an awesome price. In the U.S. the best price I
can find on that is $615.00 and no sadly the code PTAP10 doesn’t work on the C1
chainring, by the way. Now a lesser known rival, but equally good in my opinion to the P1, a little bit more fiddly on
the installation is the bePro, the bePro S. And the bePro S is more
competitive than the Powertap P1. The RRP is around about 600
and the best price right now is at BikeFast in the UK. In the U.S. again, eBay resellers
selling there for 824.00 for the Favero bePro dual-sided version. If you want the single-sided version, if you head over to the
German site, Powermeter24.com, they’ll sell you the
single-sided version for £386.00. That’s including all duties and shipping, it’s not currently in stock,
but it’s coming in stock in two to 10 days. That’s an awesome deal there. In the U.S. the best price
I could find on the bePro S was $479.00, by the way on eBay. Let’s check out one of those
eBay resellers right now, this is an example of bePro power metre, that’s the dual-sided
one, 824.00 new in box. Okay, now just a heads-up
about the power metres, Favero is bringing out very, very soon, bringing out the Assioma. Yeah, that does sound a
little bit dodgy, Assioma, but ignoring that the Assioma is in fact the bePro 2 effectively. Now they’ve tweaked it a little bit. They’ve brought in in-dwelling charging rather than micro USB, 50
hour life, continuous life, rather than 20 to 30 hours. Although I never had a
problem with the bePro’s life. And the simplified installation regime, rather like the P1, no stress necessary. So you can very quickly
change your power metre between your bikes whether
cycling across mountain, you know road and time-trial, you can take your bePro or your P1s and instal them in less than two minutes. You can also tweak the
Assioma and the bePro based on the slope and the cut-point, I.e. the threshold and
that’s in the software so you can make sure that your power metre is reading exactly accurate
even after you buy it and that’s not always possible
on a lot of power metres like Powertaps don’t allow you to do that. And the price by the way,
the price unilateral, is gonna be around 429.00. On the dual version it’s
gonna be around 679.00. Which as you see isn’t much more than the bePro first generation at 599.00. And in the States, the Assioma dual is advertised to be
coming out later in July at $735.00, which is gonna
be a really great price. It’s a really great price for
a dual reading power metre. Okay guys, so here’s my
quick summary for you, (laughing) how to find a power metre on the current, rather confusing, market. Yet there’s a lot of power metres around and you know it’s easy to put off and think that they’re way too expensive or out of your reach. Now okay, you may not want a power metre, you may not need one,
you may be old-school, as I previously mentioned. But many people these days
do want a power metre, they have proven benefits and they will enhance your riding especially if you do
it with formal training or with a coach. So I guess the main question is, can you afford a power metre? Like I’m saying here, can you afford, do you think you can afford a power metre? Several hundred dollars. If the answer is, no way, well you can borrow one from a friend. You can even rent power
metres for events these days or you could steal one, no
I’m joking about stealing one, don’t steal anyone
else’s power metre guys. But you could take a
gamble on these really, kind of low-end of the market, like the ones that interpret power from various sources like
from your aerodynamic data from wind resistance, et cetera, that’s the Velocomp PowerPod. These are not gonna be entirely accurate but they’re a good way in to the market. They give you some additional information which may be valuable. So for example, the PowerCal from Powertap it’s not accurate in terms of power, but it is actually working
out some valuable data based on heart rate. And for $99 and even less, second-hand, it’s potentially attractive. Of course, you could take a gamble on the Limits Unicorn power
metre, did I say unicorn? Sorry I meant Limits
crowd-funded power metre, yes they did raise half-a-million dollars and no one seems to know where it went. And I don’t know if
they’re still available and the reviews are pretty bad, but actually looking
at DC Rainmaker’s site for the comparative accuracy
it’s not actually terrible. It’s lets say on the
lower end of confidence, but it’s not actually terrible. So if you’ve got a
second-hand Limits power metre for lets say, $100 to $200, that would be worth a trial subject to Q factor on your bike, which means how far out you’re cranks are from the midpoint of the bottom bracket. But if you’re there in the market, you’re a lottery winner, you
got more money than sense, or your team pays, then
the high-end would be, probably these crank-based power metres which are accurate and also light. They’re adding maybe, 50, 70, 100 grammes. The carbon based ones are expensive, you know ludicrously expensive by the way. SRM Origin over £2,000. Roughly $3,000 or so. But you’ve also got the
new FSA PowerBox Carbon, the Quarq Dzero Carbon
and the new Shimano 9100, which is adding only 70 grammes
apparently to your weight. So this is probably the
gold standard right now. But in the mid-range,
more realistic on price and to be honest not that
lower in terms of accuracy. We’re talking about the
4iii on the crank arm, the Stages crank arm, the Powertap C1, the Power2Max and the Quarq
Dzero regular version. They’re adding between 20
grammes for the crank arm to 100 to 200 grammes
for your major cranks, your cranks and spider. And these are relatively good value, you know basically around about
$400, or $500 or $600 or so. So if you’re priority’s low
weight, have a look at those. But if you’re priority is accuracy have a look at these power metres which have a proven provenance or they’re very good in
terms of sampling frequency and/or hopefully both, they
are reading left and right. And in the case of
Infocrank they’re claiming no calibration is necessary whatsoever. Which is similar by
the way to the Assioma, so if you want to use it across bikes, you know across bikes then you’d probably go
for pedal play pump system although I have had riders who do change their crank-based spiders and say it’s not a massive hassle. Most people would prefer
to change their pedal, so you’re talking about the Powertap P1, Garmin Vector 2 or the
Favero Assioma or the bePro. And finally if you’re priority
is to use across bikes but you want to save money, then you’re probably talking
about the Powertap P1s, the Assioma Uno or the bePro S. So that’s it guys, that’s my run-down of which power metre to buy on a budget. I hope that was useful, I’m gonna put all the links
in the description below. But just a heads-up, if you wanna be first to catch some of these bargains
which don’t always last, if they’re sale prices, we
always post our spreadsheets and our sale prices onto Patreon, two to four weeks before we
release them onto YouTube. And not all of our spreadsheets
make it onto YouTube for various reasons. But for you guys today,
I hope that’s useful. That’s a quick run-down of
which power metre shall I buy, 2017 version by Fast Fitness Tips. All right, take care, have a good one. (upbeat instrumental music) If you found something
in here that’s useful or something that you
think is interesting, please share this video
with somebody you know or somebody who you think
will find it interesting. Thanks a lot guys.

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