33 thoughts on “Correct Exposure with and without a Light Meter

  1. I generally can guess my exposure pretty spot on but I just got one of those tiny Sekonic Twinmates which works great, before that I would use my phone to get a good baseline reading.

  2. I mostly shoot slide films I must work on what I want to expose and because of the narrow exposure slide film has compared to the more tolerant c41 I don't have the luxury you did when taking those photos!
    With my black and white rolls i overexpose half a stop.
    I would love to have your "cold" weather now, Sweden has entered its cold and dark season and we will not see any of your lovely California light until March/April ish time!
    I meter using my dslr on the dumb cameras.

  3. As a film & a digital shooter who learned exposure with the Sunny 16 Rule and EV Scale, I still override internal metering on numerous occasions. A number of my film cameras don't have any metering so if I'm in the field and either of my handheld light meters' batteries die I'm still going to come back with usable negatives. In my opinion, too many photographers today rely on their camera to provide correct exposure without thinking about what's happening & then try to fix it in post-processing. Learn to create the best image in-camera possible and then you'll find post-processing much easier to do in less time. Great comparison video!

  4. So you are basically exposing to the right, to get the most out of the DR and details of the film? Cool, thank you.

  5. 2 Things. I thought you were going to show the model's link to her instagram so we could contact her.

    Secondly, I find it interesting that you didn't include a known value, like a gray card, to help determine the accuracy of your exposures. You could measure the value in post and see how close you got, as well as using the camera zoomed into see only it, to use the camera meter. If you are going to carry a second camera, it is just as much work to carry a gray card or even one of the folding gray cards.

    My go to method of metering is a hand held light/flash meter.

  6. I just picked up 2 flawless camers. An om1 and mat 124g.. waiting on batteries but I think I'll be fine with these methods. Already loaded portra 400 and 800. Thanks for your videos.

  7. You can definitely use a hand-held light meter to take an ambient light reading without having to put the meter next to your subject, pointed toward the camera. Wouldn't you want to meter the ambient light of your scene by holding the meter next to the camera, pointed at your subject? Using the meter next to your subject, is taking an incident light reading that you might do when trying to determine optimal flash power output, not necessarily when metering ambient light of the scene. Metering ambient light of the scene with a hand-held meter you would want to include the reflected light off your subject wouldn't you? Especially in the case of your video where your model had a very bright white dress on.

  8. Once I got back to using film about 10 years ago, I used a Sekonic Twinmate L-208, almost exclusively in reflective (I'm lazy, as will become apparent). I still use that Twinmate (don't let anyone tell you that cheesey little plastic thing isn't durable. I also used a Sekonic L-328 with a spot attachment. The thing is, I'd get impatient and lazy, and shoot away, using sunny 16 without the meter, even though I carried the meter with me. One day I ended up out shooting on the street in Highland Park without a meter (I went there to peruse soon-to-close-for-good Highland Park Camera's remaining inventory, but the reclusive lady wouldn't let me in). I had brought my Super Ikonta to try to find some filters for it, and it was loaded with Provia 100. It was late in the day, and the lighting was challenging, but I shoot up the roll anyway, using sunny 16. The pictures came out okay. That's when I pretty much stopped using any metering for film (knowing no one will ever care about one's photos is very freeing). I am so lazy, I even gave up control of shutter speed and aperture to a great extent, by shooting mostly with 100 year old No. 2 Kodak Brownies. These things only cost US$10 or 15 so I have a number of them (the 1910 Model C is best). I load them up with ASA film speeds ranging from 25, 50, 100, 200 & 3200, and bring out the one that seems to fit the lighting condition best using sunny 16.

  9. I always have shot Portra and Pro 400h at ASA 200 and 100. Your video has been helpful in clairifying why "overexposing" works. Next time I shoot Pro 400h I'll use ASA 100. Also, thanks for the tip about Richard Photo Lab. I think a drive out to Valencia from my home in Ventura County will be more fun than packing up my exposed rolls and mailing them to Parsons, KS.

  10. Key Point @1:38 – This advice is for Color Negative (e.g. C-41) film – specifically the film emulsions mentioned (i.e. Kodak Portra 400, Kodak Portra 800, Fuji Pro 400) ONLY and NOT for Color Positive / Slide (e.g. E-6) film like Ektachrome or Black & White Film.

  11. I prefer kodak Portra (Fuji) has cyan cast When I was a working wedding & portrait photographer kodak portra was my favourite film my metering method incident light for colour and reflected light for black and white

  12. Great video, thank you. I shoot mostly these same 3 films, would really love to see you make a video on night photography metering as well, I guess may be slightly different due to film reciprocity but that is easy to factor in with film data sheets.

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