Cutting Plywood and Sheet Goods with Kreg’s Rip-Cut–by Home Repair Tutor
59 Comments


Cutting plywood and easily breaking down sheetgoods
is something you can do if you have one tool, and it’s called the Kreg Rip Cut tool. And
this is awesome because it only costs $26 to $34, you can attach it to your circular
saw, and you don’t have to buy a table saw which costs hundreds of dollars.
So I’m going to show you how to use the Kreg Rip Cut tool in today’s video, which
also ties in nicely with a project I’m doing at home for our bathroom mock up, which is
part of Bathroom Repair Tutor. And in the end I’ve got an awesome surprise for you,
so do not miss this video. I think you’re really going to like it. Let’s get to it.
So here’s my bathroom mock up that I’m working on for Bathroom Repair Tutor. We’re
going to be putting in an entire bathroom, step by step, and share it with our fans over
at Home Repair Tutor and Bathroom Repair Tutor. But in order to do that, one step of the process
is to install subfloor. So we’re using ¾” Tongue & Groove wood
subfloor for this project ‘cause we’re going to be tiling over it using Ditra, and
Ditra needs to go on top of the subfloor. So how am I going to rip down these subfloors
without having a table saw? Well the Kreg Rip Cut tool comes in handy
for me because I don’t do too many sheetgood projects, and I don’t want to spend the
$300 or $400 that I would have to spend for a table saw. So I’m going to show you how
to set up the Kreg Rip Cut tool. It’s super easy to use with your circular saw. And let’s
do that right now. This is the bathroom mock up. Here is the
subfloor. We have, as you can see, a 13”-wide by 8’-long piece of subfloor that we need
to cut to size. I’m going to use the Kreg Rip Cut tool to do that.
You can place 2x4s on a flat surface to support your sheetgood when you’re cutting it with
a circular saw. I don’t know about you, but ¾” Tongue & Groove plywood is some
heavy stuff. Let me shuffle this over. So guys, the other thing is this is the nice
side of the plywood that I want facing up, but because of the way that the circular saw
cuts, I’m going to put this face down on the 2x4s.
So the cool thing is you don’t really have to measure with the Rip Cut tool, but I want
this board to be farther out than 13”. So it’s about 14’ from the edge. That way
I won’t cut into the 2×4 when I use the Rip Cut tool.
There are three parts to the Rip Cut tool: there’s the sled—this attaches to the
circular saw; this is the rail; and this is the edge guide, which runs along the edge
of the sheetgood or the plywood. The base plate of the circular saw goes up onto the
sled here. So what you’ll do is you’ll slide this on, and the blade goes in between
here into these slots. So you can just slide it on like so, and you use these to tighten
it down. What you do from here is simply slide the rail onto the sled.
You need to calibrate the saw’s blade with the Rip Cut, so what you’ll have to do is
this: simply push the Rip Cut tool until the edge guide is flush up against the saw guide.
So as you can see here, the edge guide will be up against the saw guide. What you’ll
have to do is pull the saw guide up so that the edge guide can touch the saw blade. So
there you go, and just push the edge guide up against the saw blade and calibrate the
Rip Cut tool with my circular saw. You’ll want to lock the Rip Cut tool into place,
and then move the cursor to the zero mark that is on the rail.
So there’s a zero mark on the rail. You want to line the cursor up with that zero
mark, and make sure it’s flush with the edge guide. Here is the 13”-mark, and I
need to move the sled down to that, and just line it up with the cursor. Once it’s lined
up with the 13”-mark, I just lock it into place, and that’s it; I’m good to go.
So I did want to show one other thing. I’m using the saw blade that’s an Ultra Finish
saw blade. It’s got 60 teeth in it. It’s really going to make a nice cut with this
Tongue & Groove subfloor. The Rip Cut tool will allow you to cut a piece of 4×8 sheetgood
in half. So we’ll go out 24”. Now I’m ready to make my cut with my saw
and the Rip Cut. So what you need to do is this: hold the saw with one hand and the edge
guide with the other, and simply move the saw through the material. You can switch the
edge guide to the other side of the rail. So if you’re left-handed, you can hold the
saw with the left hand and the edge guide with your right hand.
The other hot tip I have for you is this: you should always make your saw blade about
1/8” to ¼” deeper than the depth of the material. So in this case, I made my saw blade
1” deep because my material was ¾” thick. Pretty awesome.
Well there you go, guys. Cutting plywood couldn’t get any easier using the Kreg Rip Cut tool.
You can use it with your circular saw, and it only costs $26 to $34. And here is the
surprise: I talked to Kreg—I actually approached them—and they gave me the go-ahead to say
this in this video, but they’re willing to give away two Kreg Rip Cut tools to two
random fans of Home Repair Tutor. So head back on over to HomeRepairTutor.com,
click on one of these links here; it’ll take you back over to that page, and you’ll
see how you can enter into that giveaway. It’s pretty sweet. I think that you’ll
love this tool. It could help you with your plywood project or any kind of sheetgood project
you have going on. All right? So check that out.
And if you haven’t already done so, subscribe to the YouTube channel here so you don’t
miss out on any of these awesome giveaways. But remember, go back to Home Repair Tutor
by clicking on one of these links, and you’ll be able to enter into the random giveaway.
Thanks for watching. Take care, and I’ll talk to you soon.

59 thoughts on “Cutting Plywood and Sheet Goods with Kreg’s Rip-Cut–by Home Repair Tutor

  1. Fantastic! I always have a problem cutting straight… Just mangled a recip saw project, but I was able to make it work. Thanks for your videos, I would not have started trying to do my own projects without your help!

  2. I've had the rip-cut guide for a year – and watching your video I had a "duh" moment when you're describing how to calibrate the rip-cut to the saw blade…so thank you for that. 😀

  3. good instructional video, but way too over complicating for cutting plywood. Snap a chalk line and cut or for smaller rips, pinch saw table with thumb and forefinger and run your knuckle down the edge of wood as a guide. Also if youre tiling the subfloor the plywood doesnt need to be such a high grade with smooth cuts because youre going to put backerboard over it. By the time this contraption was assembled, I'd have the piece cut and installed already. Not bashing you in anyway, like I said its a good video for what you are trying to demonstrate, but damn, I see so many contraptions in construction that are essentially useless.

  4. 26 0r 36 bucks i am going to buy one, my table saw is great , but to big to take to a location.. as for a snap line , this is a tolerance that can vary. I use a clamping straight edge, but it takes time to square up the thing.. As for expert woodworkers, the whole kreg thing is not for them, But for the rest of us who work to live, it makes perfect sense.
    My concern for this tool is at 24 inches, how difficult is it to hold in place.

  5. Thanks for the video, I just bought this and your tips were helpful. I,m a retired novice woodworker and its easy to use and no problem cutting large sheets, I've a cordless circular saw and the Kreg worked fine with accurate cuts, I'll get better and faster the more I use it, I find it easier than trying to mark out long lines as I always veer off the line so the edge stop is great for me to use. Thanks Again.

  6. There is something wrong in the setup I can't figure why the Blade close to edge blue plastic. Should it be in the center so the guard do it's job in your video you put the blade close to the edge then when ready to cut the blade it's in Center LOl, and not to the edge of the blade people must be in drug I see logic but this it isnt logic to me
    So why at the setup the blade touch the edge, and when you are ready to cut the blade it's in the center I don't get it
    I order this Jig I will figure it out from the manual why by the way if the blade touch the edge it's no way the guard move freely
    in the manual it's say for saw blade on left hand center the blade in the left sled slot ? CENTER don't say touch the edge
    so in your video you show it with the Blade touch the edge sled slot? no one here saw this you confused people man did you read the manual? it's no way the guard move with blade touch the edge sled it'sa dangerous operation man LOL
    Safety First isn't it

  7. I have two table saws but running 4 x 8 sheets is a pain so I have long used a sacrificial cutting table and circular saw to break down panels. I use a straight edge and a clamp but I'm about to make a whole wall of bookcases and I like the idea the Kreg jig will give me identical gables and shelves so I'm going to get one. I have the greatest respect for Festools but unless you're a dentist with woodworking hobby they are way out of reach.

  8. I read other people using it and a few said it broke after a few uses due to the weak plastic. Looking at this video the guide has some play during setup, plastic flexing.

    Learn to use a circular saw and cut freehand on the line and if need to, clean up with a hand plane. Still need a table saw in many situations if you do enough wood projects.

  9. I'm sorry, I'm sure you mean well, but this tool is extremely flimsy and quirky, which makes cutting a straight line almost a Jedi mind trick. I admire the rest of Kreg's tools. The truth is, they've made this base a flapping mess and the mounting structure depends on it. It's a strikeout.

  10. Bought this at lowes three weeks ago had to tweek the fence cause it wasn't square.Used it couple times and its good for casual use.If your contractor your better off with track saw.Plastic wont last long I know i'll eventually end up replacing plastic fence with aluminum one.

  11. Is that the new cursor or the old one? The one i saw had like an arrow instead and i really didn't like that. I hope that's the new cause i plan on buying one soon.

  12. Esa guia no sirve para nada, ademas de ser costosa es un tremendo sufrimiento el poder usarla. Existen muchas guias caseras las cuales son efectivamente superiores y con un costo bajisimo. Saludos…

  13. Don't buy this tool. I had to drill my plate of saw to get the clamps to work. Still does not hold it accurately. Notice in the vid each time he has to make an adjustment he just skips the vid to end result. Why…none of it is easy to maneuver with less than 3 hands.

  14. Just bought one today, still need to test it. I tried the line but I always veer to the right. 🙁 Hopefully this will be fool proof.

  15. I took the plastic end piece made a better one out of some scrap ipe stock now it's sturdy and will not break.

  16. Just picked this up from Lowes. Thanks for the video! Haven't opened it yet but I'm really glad you showed how easy it is to calibrate it. One question, does clamping the saw onto the blue base is it pretty tight when you screw it down?

  17. Ever tried using one of these vertically?

    Perhaps building a frame to hold the plywood sheets at an angle, and cutting them while standing up?

  18. During the entire process of assembly, I felt like I'm setting up a folding lounge chair on the wing of a commercial airline getting ready for my budget flight on Kreg airlines. 2 "set screws" are ALL that hold the sled to the base of your circular saw, they do not tighten down tightly and if you torque them down you'll bust the plastic base. I am either going to drill some holes thru the base and the sled and fasten with screws and nuts or I'm going to send it back for a refund, I may be pre-judging it but I'm calling bullshit when I see it…it's piece of plastic crap! I'd have gladly paid $90 for the same design made of aluminum or steel with instructions on how to SECURELY attach the base to the sled. Instead they sell you fantasy and hope all the "sunny skies" forums reviewers will poo poo anybody that points out what a piece of shit it is. But I actually see a bunch of comments that agree that it is "plastic".."toy-like"…"junk"..and the like..I'm not even sure I can modify it to work well, could be the sled and perhaps the other blue parts needs to be made of metal not thin and brittle plastic.

  19. I'm a master carpenter with over 25 yrs in the business.
    Like most Kreg products, it's a gimmicky and "consumable" POS product.

    This fence Would be better with all metal construction; the guide is flimsy plastic, and movement of the sliding fence is not smooth. The cursor and cursor lock are plastic and brittle; especially problematic when working in colder temps outside where you are likely to be cutting as a professional carpenter.

    By the time you set this up and calibrate, I could already have a stack of plywood or backerboard cut with a simple rip fence or using a table saw
    Finally, the way in which you show to "Calibrate" the Cursor will yield every single cut being off by +/- 1/16th all the way to 1/8th inch off.
    And here is the reason…..you show the calibration procedure by sliding the rip guide up to the side of the blade (retracting the lower blade guard first), then moving the cursor to "Zero".
    While this is consistent with the instructions by the manufacturer KREG, it does NOT work, and here is why….you are not taking into account the width of the blade itself which will remove the material, making the distance "short" by the width of the individual blade (or greater, up to 1/8th off)
    Every piece of material I cut when I first purchased this thing was off by 1/16th of an inch.
    While this may NOT be important to a novice, it is VERY important to a professional

    I see this tool as a gimmick…it is not time efficient, not accurate and could be made a lot more durable.
    For $35, go buy a T-square and two good clamps which allows you to even work with larger pieces of sheet material, or even a cheap aluminum rip clamp from Harbor Freight, which actually works better than this rip guide, and for less money…not my favorite, but it actually works in a pinch

  20. This can be used "but not great" for fine cabinetry.
    This is for framers, diy,and people working alone with a full sheet of plywood.
    It is a huge huge time saver for framing. Cut right on the pile mutiple sheets at a time for wall sheeting…. dont forget to set your depth…..
    Always have a st8 cut for your next cut.
    Knock sheets down to a manageable size by yourself- then fine tune if need be with a table saw if your building a masterpiece.
    Had this tool for 4 years tossed around in work trailer etc. Still not broke
    Also own a dewalt track saw. Table saw. This adds to a well rounded set of tools and is used everyday.
    Hint… keep a saw set up permanently with it..

  21. That was the best instructions I have seen using the Kreg jig for a circular saw. I haven't seen anyone do the calibration. Video was done well. Thanks for taking the time to instruct all of us on the Kreg Jig.

  22. This tool is freaking awesome! Ive been cutting panels for years using the old straight edge deal and took delivery and used this first time today. At least halved my cutting times. The construction of the tool is really strong and fits saw perfectly. My building colleague is in love with it as well. Awesome tool cant reccomend enough. Thanks kreg im so impressed.

  23. I can't believe I just wasted 15 minutes reading the BS down below. My only real question with the jig is why not make the part that connects to your saw out of aluminium also? When tightened properly it works just fine. As far as the blade thickness problem, be smart enough to calculate that in when setting up the saw and clamping it into position

  24. Kreg's Rip Cut and Accu Cut, awesome! I have a table saw, but ripping full sheets of plywood by myself is not only awkward, but it's dangerous too. But, with these two tools I can now make short work of knocking down sheet goods by myself.

  25. Not being funny guys but if you have a circular saw it comes with a fence just add a strip of hardwood to it to extend the guide oh yeah and that little device in your pocket that you see people using is called a tape measure. I like kreg products but this is utter rubbish!

  26. I want to cut a 9-1/4” wide board to 8”. What measurement should I use when using this jig? Should I cut away 8” or 1-1/4”?

  27. Looked at one today, but passed cause it looked to plastiky, watched your vid, and now will go back and buy one. I'll be cutting some really nice maple plywood and don't want to make the mistakes I made on my 1st desk project ripping the sheets. Also just a side note, if you use just regular old masking tape over where you plan to cut it gives you a perfect smooth cut without all the splintering associated with plywood's

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