Finishing My CR250!

what’s going on guys today is thee day the
day to bolt up the suspension on to the cr250 and get this thing all wrapped up
got some tricked out forks here and a cool looking shock that we built in
the previous video really pumped on how these came out and I’m more excited to
get them bolted up it’s been a long time coming and make sure you stay tuned for
the entire video we do have a giveaway at some point I
apologize if I’m a little slow today I had treatment yesterday so I’m a
little loopy but either way let’s get after it I’m just itching to see how the
forks look on the bike so I’m going to pop those on first so I’m gonna start with the fork height
about one or two millimeters above the triple clamp once you’ve got your fork
height identical on either side you can even go ahead and measure it with the
set of calipers which is something I should probably do seven seven seven
eight thirty this one’s gonna have to come down a little bit all right that is
seven point eight so close enough right there and what I was saying once we have
the four kites set torque the triple clamp bolts the top bolts are 16
foot-pounds and the bottoms are 14 and then as you’re torquing these you want
to alternate from the top one to the bottom one tighten them evenly there’s a
click and there’s a click man that is looking ridiculously good but the forks
are kind of missing something right about here
I’ll stick those on a little later now let’s get this poor thing on it’s been
over here in the corner collecting cobwebs let’s get it back where it
belongs for now I’m gonna leave the axle and
pinch bolts loose I’ll need to get the rear shock on before I can properly
align the forks and the wheel so next up let’s get this caliper mounted up so you
want to make sure the brake line is on the inside of the forks the most common
mistake I see is when people read out the brake line on the outside and the
reason you don’t want to do this is if it catches someone’s foot peg or a tree
branch that will rip your brake line right off so make sure it’s routed to
the inside now if your pads are too close together for the rotor to fit you
can use a little plastic lever like we’re using earlier to pry those apart
should slip on now oh you want to help me all right
this will need some blue loctite I got a third hand here Hailey’s here scored a
little blue locked it on there perfect it’s actually nice I’m not there Dan
sometimes you want to be my apprentice okay all right quit your job and help me
out I’ll pay ya it’s not looking sick awesome thank you yeah I’m on it now a
torque spec for the caliper mounting bolts is 22 foot-pounds holy crap that
is something else the only thing I didn’t think about here when I was
picking out colors is I use a different color on the caliper mount versus the
fork lug should have gone with the same color but honestly not too big of a deal
just nitpicking all right what do we got next I guess that would be the shock I
ended up getting the bladder charged to a hundred 50 psi with nitrogen and
pressed in a new shock bearing as well now to get this bolted up I’ll need to
pop off the seat and sub-prime real quick look and dandy now to get back to the
front end with the wheel and fork alignment we’re gonna start off by
talking the axle nut to you the spec and that is 65 foot-pounds now if your axle
won’t tighten all the way cue the spec like we have here you’ll need to tighten
down the pinch bolts on the brake rotor side the spec on these ones is 14
foot-pounds now we can attack it with the bigger torque wrench and set it to
the 65 then we’re gonna Corder this side and make sure the fork is free on the
axle now there’s two different ways to align the forks in the wheel the first
being to spin the wheel and then grab the brake like that that’ll bring the
forks in proper alignment and just naturally and the other way to do that
is by taking the bike off the stand and compressing the suspension now we’re
going to compress the forks and this will also naturally align the forks and
bring them into their place now we’ll just need a torque the bolts on this
side the same spec as the left side so it’s super important to have your Forks
aligned if they are misaligned you’ll actually cause wear on your lower tubes
and your suspension won’t be very smooth it’ll be hard to compress one thing
that’s helpful is having an o-ring on the lower fork that’ll show you how much
your suspension is compressing and that way you can tune accordingly another
thing you could align on the bike once you have the chassis completed this is
actually a pretty cool concept I have noticed a difference of this in the past
but you can align the rear suspension with the motor in the frame everything
kind of works as a whole I actually learned this little trick from Trey
canards mechanic Brent Presnell so shout out to him but you want to have your
rear shock bolts loose as well as your linkage bolts your swing arm pivot all
your engine mounts so we’ll need the bike weand up against the wall you’re
gonna jump on it compress the suspension a few times and then let it slowly
return to its natural spot then we’ll start by talking this we
our pivot bolt this is like the very center of the bike where everything
pivots and arguably the most important with a bike off the stand and under its
own weight we will start torquing these bolts just when our pivot on this bike
calls for 65 foot-pounds next up is the linkage bolts this one is 59 along with
the front and the one that connects to the swing arm and the shock mounting
bolts are 33 foot-pounds for top and bottom there’s something so satisfying
about the click of a torque wrench it’s like a click of Approval
so now for the engine the front bottom and top bolt here are all 40 foot pounds
and then the 2 way up there are both 20 so that’s it for torquing but man I am
so excited with how this thing is progressing all right guys it is
giveaway time I’ll be picking three winners choose either a shirt or a hat
off on the website prime of X comm got a bunch of different shirt and hat styles
over there everything’s super high quality this shirt the same exact shirt
I’ve been rocking it for like two years straight seemingly like every day and
it’s held up really good still rocking it and the the hats are really
comfortable too so head over to prime MX comm figure out what you want and then
go down below in the description first link will take you over to the giveaway
page just enter your info there no purchase required and you aren’t entered
and then in a week or weekend half I’ll go through and pick three lucky winners
so good luck now I think we can get some more goodies bolted up on to the sea
let’s go ahead and get the subframe air box and silencer back on the bike I
ended up finding the right mounts for the silencer just ordered oh yeah ones
from Rocky Mountain for the air boot I like to throw a little bit of SC one or
Windex inside of there just helps it slip on the carburetor a little easier a
nice thing about using Windex is it evaporates pretty quick unlike SC one
which leaves a little film on there first thing I always try to line up is
the boot onto you the carburetor these can be kind of tough sometimes make sure
you had that clamp all the way loose before you try to wiggle it on once I
get that air boot started on the carburetor I’ll pop in the top subframe
bolt that gives me a little leverage with the subframe that way I can hold
the air boot into position while I tighten that clamp as you can imagine
having that boot all the way on to the carburetor and plant down that’s pretty
important that will always be your first source of an air leak and therefore dirt
traveling in your engine so very essential that that thing is tight now
let’s throw a little lock tight on the subframe bolts and you’ll be golden torque spec for the subframe bolts is 20
foot pounds now some of you guys might be confused on what bolts a torque which
ones not to what bolts to use Loctite on and so on and so forth
so here’s my general rule of thumb all of the major bolts such as the engine
mounting suspension triple clamp axles all that stuff needs to be torqued to
the factory spec and then anything below an eight millimeter thread I typically
don’t torque so that would include like gas tank bolts radiator mounting bolts
air box bolts and clutch cover bolts I typically won’t torque any of that stuff
all of this go by feel now as far as which bolts to lock tight you obviously
only want to lock tight bolts that don’t have a locking nut on it so a locking
nut looks like that one there on the sprocket
don’t want to lock tight those not necessary but on bolts that commonly
come loose like subframe bolts seat bolts the kick starter bolt and brake
pedal bolt those will definitely need to be locked itíd and then as far as pinch
bolts like the triple clamp and axle lug those are under attention so no need to
lock tight those I hope this helps you guys and clears up any confusion when it
comes to lock tight and torquing well how about getting the silencer back on
let’s go for it I have no idea how I forgot about these trick little carbon
fiber guards they go on the fork lug to protect that beautiful seracote so these
are from CMT carbon out of Italy I’ll have a link down below to where you can
find them you want to run a washer in between the guard and the lug that we
don’t damage that beautiful carbon fiber you can never have too much carbon so
we’ve got the carbon tank carbon master guard caliper guard and rotor guard down
here all from CMT now if there’s one more thing I want to do in carbon fiber
that would be the silencer or at least the end cap on this one so if you guys
know of any cr250 carbon silencers or even just the end cap go ahead and tag
me in some Instagram posts I would love to pick one up for this bike I think
that’d be the cherry on top I knew I was missing a couple more things so this
piece goes on the joint of the sound sir and pipe and then we’ve got the gas tank
strap and as you guys saw we’ve got a works connection skid plate so let’s get
this thing fastened up you can see the frame already has a dent and the rail
from before so we definitely want to prevent that from happening again and we
also got to protect those fresh cases so we’ve got four brackets here three
which are the same and then one that has a shorter bracket or shorter angle this
one is going to go on the right rear the skid plate and these screws you’ll
definitely want to lock tight you don’t have lock tight on them little back out
pretty quick with all that vibration let’s get this bracket slipped in the
frame just like that now just a matter of getting the rest of these brackets
screwed on before I get those front brackets in I’m going to stuff the foam
inside of there the foam just helps prevent any mud from packing up in the
skid plate and now we just got tighten this baby down looking pretty good on
there in my opinion this is one of the better skid plates or as some would call
it a glide plate that you can buy for a moto application made of nice thick
aluminum and it’s not going to cause a ton of vibration issues and obviously
for riding woods you want to have some guards that come up and protect the
engine a little better but for moto this is the ticket I’ll drop a link down
below to you where I bought this one but man with that skid plate you can
definitely see the dent in the frame now so like I was thinking earlier the forks
are looking a little bit bare and I’ve got something to help fix that some show
with stickers hopefully these stick fine to you the
seracote I know I’ve had a problem with that in the past so I’m gonna use some
heat and that should help it out so I like to use isopropyl alcohol before
applying graphics to help clean things up stuff isn’t quite as harsh as acetone
on your skin and lungs that red is definitely a little darker
than I’d expected but I think it looks pretty good on there so I had to use a
ton of heat to get this stuff to stick to the seracote but I think it’s on
there good now so lately I’ve been working really hard to get you guys some
good deals on dirt bike parts and so you’re gonna want to pay attention here
get your notepad out your phone and write these down all you guys that own a
two-stroke I know you want a billet cylinder head with interchangeable domes
so this one is from Fathead racing to save 10% on those use the code cam 10
and then for the swingarm pivot system this is a greased Bowl setup allows you
to grease your swing arm pivot bearings with just a grease gun hear that whole
setup you can save 10% on by using the code cam 10 once again I’ll have all the
links to these companies as well as those codes down below in the
description obviously you guys can tell the only thing we’re missing at this
point is plastics so why don’t we dig into that right now now the first thing
we’ve got or plastics is a set of red fork guards here along with some
graphics from Rocky Mountain these are from their graphic company called an
attack I’ll have to wipe down the guards with alcohol here to clean them up this
graphic you lined up here at the bottom get ahead of the heat gun real quick to
finish her up they came out looking pretty good so let’s get these things
bolted up although I might have to pull that front wheel off got this pretty
cool fastener kit from Bolton for all the plastics see if we can find some
bolts for the fork guard looks like it’s these ones right here it’s very
important to use the right length the bolts if you use too long of a bolt
you’ll actually dent the tube it’ll thread in too far and the spring inside
will get stuck in there it’s a big hassle one little thing that kind of
bugs me about Honda’s is these four guard bolts how tough they are to get to
you but if you’ve got a cut-down allen wrench like we’ve got here ain’t a thing
next thing we’ve got is this cool little brake line clamp from zetas or however
you pronounce it I think we’re ready to get some fenders
on this bike you can kind of see the theme and the colors I’m going with hey
we’re actually starting to see some color on this thing looking pretty good
now for you guys that have stuck around for the video you’re definitely getting
your money’s worth and I say that because works connection is gonna offer
you guys a discount as well favorite thing they sell is this elite lever and
perch makes your clutch pull buttery smooth I also have their radiator braces
the skid plate we just installed the master cylinder caps those always look
super trick so to save 20% on works connection parts use the code cam 20
heck of a deal and of course we’ve got some side plates with my name and number
on them got prime of X on there as well excited to see how these fit on the bike Rocky Mountain really knocked it out of
the park with this graphic and color scheme let’s check it out now for the
front plate I’ll be using a psycho Stadium plate for a 2019 CRF I prefer
these over the OEM plates because you’re able to zip tie them to the fork holds
them on a little better and I think they look better as well and it’s got a
built-in brake line guide as well which is pretty slick now as far as mounts go
this plate uses two top mounts which obviously won’t work with the factory
Center mount so we’ll need a bracket now Paul sport does provide a bracket with
the restyle kit which we have here but what I found is that bracket makes the
number of plates it too high up with this one and even with the plate that
they provided and it looks really cheesy on there as well you see the big bracket
up top here so I decided to take matters into my own hands
so I had these brackets manufactured out of stainless steel just fits right on
the front of the triple clamp here it just bolts onto the factory hole like
that and voila you got two threaded holes for your new
style number plate now before I bolt it up and test it out figure it out might
as well see what the scotch brite can do to shine it up now it is stainless steel
so we don’t have to worry about it rusting so no need to paint it powder
coated or seracote it just leave it bare damn that is fresh let’s see how it fits
on the bike brackets on and the front plate is ready to mount but let me show
you guys something real quick so for all of you that want to run a newer front
plate and front fender I’ll show you how I would go about mounting the new style
front fender since you do have to drill a couple holes in it now granted this
fender is already pre-drilled for the CR clamps
this one came with the restyle kit now I have a fender here for a 2020 or 2019
CRF it uses the newer style mounting holes so I’ll walk you through how you
would mount this fender onto the older style clamps so to start off you’re
gonna want to have your old fender washers on the fender
but installed upside down so I’m gonna flip these around now we’re gonna take
the template these come with the brackets and line it up with the holes
we’re gonna take something like a pencil or a punch and Mark through that bigger
hole and get that template centered on the hole and take a fender bolt or a six
millimeter bolt and push it through that hole all the way through like that so
now the template should be held in place pretty good then we’re going to take a
screwdriver a punch something sharp and line it up with the smaller holes and
then give it a little tap with a hammer shit do the same for the other three
holes now we can take that template off and now you’ll be able to see the punch
marks we made now take a drill and a small drill bit I have an 8 inch size on
this one and drill right through those punch marks we just made now we’re gonna swap out that eighth
inch drill bit or a three-eighths now the rears are going to be kind of tricky
because they’re so close to those existing holes so basically you’re just
gonna be slotting the hole there and then it’s pop in your fender washers
these washers will kind of hold everything in place with those slotted
holes and now the fender is ready to go on the bike these the existing holes
from before are gonna be hidden by the number plate by the way now this
template it’s kind of a temporary idea I am planning on building a jig that bolts
to these holes here that way you can just punch through get the holes they
need and I think that’d make it a lot easier it’s a bummer there’s not a
cleaner way of mounting this honestly I could probably use some bigger washers
and help cover up those slotted holes but I’ve ran the same setup on a 125 for
probably a couple years now you guys probably never would have guessed I had
a hacked up fender on there but yeah works great never had any issues with it
now I’ll show you guys why we couldn’t use the existing holes see how close the
fender is to the triple clamp here where the step is yeah so that’s why we had to
drill all four new holes for it let’s go ahead and see how the number plate fits
on here I think this is gonna look pretty good spot on now the reason for the tubing over the
zip tie is so the zip tie doesn’t wear into the coating on the fork it actually
happened on my 125 so I thought I’d be a little proactive this time on the 250 so
that is it for the front end everything’s mounted nice and solid just
like om and one thing I noticed that’s kind of weird with this fender compared
to the other one this one actually looks like natural on there the other one the
restyle fender pointed it higher up and looked kind of funky so pretty glad I
mounted this one instead now for you guys that want to restyle your front end
just like I did here I do sell the bracket that we installed so you get the
bolts the template and of course the bracket itself all available over on my
website prime MX com so this bracket is for 2002 2003 cr125 cr250 and CRF 450
and if you have an O 4 or newer I have a different variation of the bracket they
use a little different mounting holes so this bracket is 404 207 and it comes
with bolts to the template both of them all ready to go so I’ll drop a link to
these brackets down below in the description just for reference this is
what the O 407 bracket looks like on the bike this is on my 125 just mount
up your number plate and you are set alright fellas this is the moment we’ve
all been waiting for to finally finish up the bike and of course the last thing
is the seat you know what guys I thought I was done
but the mailman just showed up so let’s see what we got here it’s like some
coolant some oil and what is this got a brake pedal
dude that is really gonna finish her off nicely let’s bolt her up pretty pumped
on how that pedal looks on there so it’s got a folding tip pretty nice and then
this is called a brake snake so say if your pedal catches a rut or a root or
whatever this wire will prevent that pedal from folding out and making the
pedal unusable so these come with the crimps loose so once you get the wire
hooked up on the motor mount to pull that thing tight you want a little bit
of slack there that way you can still use the pedal and then crimp those
connections there so officially the 250 is finally done feel so good so let’s
pull this thing out in the Sun get some shots and let er rip so this bike will forever be something
truly special to me I don’t know if I can ever get rid of it so as many of you
know I started this build in December of 2017 paid $400 for a beat-up 2003 CR 250
and shortly thereafter torn apart started making some good progress on it
and then in July of 2018 I just about had the engine built the bike was coming
along really good and I started feeling really really sick and so I went into
the doctor’s office and was told I had an aggressive form of leukemia and that
was just a complete heartbreak to me obviously this bike was put on the back
burner but when I was feeling good enough I was still able to get out in
the shop and turn some wrenches on it actually made quite a bit of progress
and finish it up while going through cancer treatment so to be able to build
a bike while going through cancer was something I never thought I’d have to
face but we did it guys me and all of you we built a really badass bike while
going through some serious hurdles in life and I just want to say thank you to
every single one of you from the bottom of my heart for sticking with me knowing
that this thing was eventually gonna get done and all I can say is we did it we
beat cancer we built a bike and we had a ton of fun
along the way so back to the bike for a second here are my thoughts on the
Paulus board restyle kit so overall I think it looks awesome it really
modernizes the bike and for the most part it actually fits pretty good
there’s some things I do really like about it the rear fender looks amazing
it lines up with everything underneath really well really tucks it in that
subframe the side plates look amazing as well really recreates that newer CRF
style now for the shrouds I do think they look pretty good for the most part
the only thing that I would change is I would trim this little piece off right
here I don’t know it just looks kind of out of place right there take a step
back and show you guys that little piece right there I think we could do without
and it would look a little better now for the front plate in front fender the
front fender I got looked kind of dorky on there like I was saying earlier it
pointed up a little high and the front plate wasn’t a big fan of
the standard or the OEM style front plate so I switched to a psycrow stadium
plate and one thing I noticed on all cr250 s that had this kid on it the rear
shock a gesture doesn’t line up very well it should be centered in the hole
but when I put this kit on my 125 the shock lined up fine so kind of weird
with the 250s and also one more thing with 125 is the sounds there’s a lot
shorter and I think this kit looks quite a bit better on the 125 versus at 250
you can see how far that sounds there pokes out not really a fan of it there
are some workarounds with that I’m not quite sure what I’ll do with it I was
kind of thinking of trimming the silencer down like a 125 pipe but then I
think it wouldn’t work very well on a 250 so what I’m kind of thinking of
doing is getting another one of these silencers mounting it up on the other
side with the side plate style there’s room for silencers on either side so
basically doing dual shorties on the back of this bike I think it would look
pretty cool but for the most part really digging the kit at first when I put it
on I was kind of hemming and hawing about it but kind of like the suspension
the more I looked at it the more I fell in love with it and after a few changes
with a different front fender different front number plates I actually think it
looks amazing on there really really loving it now and I have to give a big
thank you to Rocky Mountain for supply and the restyle kit as well as doing the
graphics up on this bike so they actually have a graphic company it’s
called attack graphics they went through completely built this graphic it to my
liking and so big big thank you to them alright so now that the 250s done a lot
of you are gonna be wondering what’s next so I do have some ideas on what I’m
gonna build next I’ll be picking up a bike within the next couple weeks little
hint it will be another two-stroke so really excited about that so as far as
future videos with the 250 I will be doing a video on breaking it in doing
some riding with it as soon as I’m cleared to ride hopefully that’ll be
this fall but yeah lots of exciting things coming on the channel so hang in
there once again thank you so much for watching the video
in supporting I appreciate it more than you know until next time keep her Pratt

100 thoughts on “Finishing My CR250!

  1. Its stunning bro…been on board for the last 14 months. This is the ultimate reward for enduring your rough patch. Can't wait to see it REALLY move!!

  2. the best rebuild dirtbike on youtube super nice result.What next?Cr500 or kx500🤔.More video and godbless you from Philippines

  3. I watched your videos while undergoing chemo a radiation myself. 2 months ago I was cleared. I’m 100% cancer free. This video was one of the most gratifying things I’ve watched on YouTube.

  4. Was the best season final ever. Watched since day one. And I think the next bike is a cr500. Bc you got the 125/250 so you gotta add the daddy to them. Sick videos. And you’re out of there CANCER 🔫

  5. Dude I love this build been following since beginning and it turned out clean af bro and you are a huge inspiration to me not only on your work but in life bro I truly mean that 🤘

  6. I think scalvini makes a carbon exhaust, link below. Bike bandit had a carbon skid plate too that looked pretty sick! This bike is awesome! Makes me really want to butter up my Cr250. You truly made a dream bike! God bless you Cameron💪🏼[SCV0002]=SCV0002-X001-Y009

  7. I’ve seen people buy bikes and spend half a week building them into race bikes. But nothing quite like this. This bike has every single tiny little detail.

  8. The bike turned out so sick! Can't wait to see you break it in. Is the next bike going to be a 500cc? That would be awesome!!! I absolutely love your video's. You show how to work on bikes the correct way doing it right and not cutting any corners like a true professional. I'm excited for your future video's. Hope your feeling ok and will be praying for you. Take care…

  9. Damn the time has come I’ve gotten so mad at times with how long this build was taking but I’m glad I stuck through it the whole time. Proud of your journey.

  10. Que gran bike y un grandioso prollecto en verdad mis respetos eres un grandioso mecánico como tú ay pocos la verdad y lo más importante que das de que aprender y eso es bueno excelente trabajo me siento motivado saludos desde Michoacán 👍

  11. Hey man glad you made it I believe your going To build a Yamaha Yz can’t wait to see your next build the Honda looks great

  12. congrats cam!!! bike looks awesome!!! proud to have been able to watch you overcome tgese hurdles.. cant wait to see what is next

  13. Dude, this is the craziest bike I ve ever seen. This is amazing. I’m so happy, and it’s not even my bike lol. Good luck for everything from the bottom of my heart. I guess waiting almost 2 years was worth it. Love

  14. Holy crap dude the bike turned out better than I could ever have thought it would. It looks sooooo good. So glad I’ve been following along with the build and glad you beat cancer! Love following along and learning with your videos!

    Will that front number plate bracket for the 04 fit the CRF250R? What I’ve done is an 09 front plate on my 04 triple clamps, and I’ve just got some jerry rigged metal strapping made into a bracket to hold it in place. If your bracket works then I’d rather buy one of those to make it look a lot better and function better too! Plus support the channel! 😉 great job on the bike. It’s mint.

  15. Damnz dude..Amazing… Am about to build a bike (+ Everyone else) for that satisfaction of crispiness… Love the idea of dual exhaust, could image it going up into the end of the fender but how that will affect bike idk?!?!

  16. Beautiful bike cameron. Awesome job man. Thanks for the journey. Im currently rebuilding my cr500 from the ground up. You gave me some awesome vision. Your tough as nails dude ! glad to see you got your health back. Rock on man. Thanks for everything

  17. I have been watching the build from day one and dam bro what a battle it has been but with the most awesome outcomes you could hope for with the biķe and your health I am privileged to have been able to be a part of this thank you for the best videos I've seen

  18. AAHHHH ITS FINISHED!!!! THE MOMENT WEVE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR!!! It looks so good, I would never get rid of it….might be a little hard to top thos this build lol, maybe a klx110l build next?

  19. Oh my god cam this bike is beautiful sucks a dream bike of mine looks as if it came right off the show room floor🔥🔥🔥😍

  20. Little thing I learned the hard way. Our goggle lenses kept cracking and we couldnt figure out why, then I discovered windex was the cause. Idk if it would dry out the air boot as well, but I guess its something to consider if you remove and install it frequently.

  21. I've followed this build from day 1 and am still amazed at how it turned out. Through everything, you've adapted and overcome all obstacles and now have the best looking cr250 on the planet! Well done sir, and thank you for letting all of us be apart of the ride 🤘

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