How to change 545RFE & 45RFE transmission fluid & filters without the mess

Hi this is another video by Pet Rock. I’m
working on my ’03 Dodge Durango, 4.7L and today we’re going to be changing the transmission
fluid and filters. There are two in this transmission. Specifically this transmission is a 545RFE
hopefully I can give you guys some tips along the way to make this job easier. Sometimes
doing transmissions is a fairly messy job, hopefully I’ll be able to make it so, show
you how to do it so that you don’t actually spill a drop on the floor. This truck did
not come with a drain plug for the transmission so the way the manual says to do it is to
basically drop the pan and basically try not to spill the oil out of the pan as your lowering
it. Anybody who’s tried to do that, its not very simple. Its a balancing act and often
times you end up spilling the fluid on yourself, the floor, or you know and hardly any of it
in the pan in the drain pan. So a better way I have come up with is to use a suction pump.
So instead of getting the fluid out by dropping the pan, you suck the fluid out through the
transmission fill tube first that will get most of the fluid out and then once you’ve
got most of the fluid out you can drop the pan and have maybe a quart left in the pan,
not very much at all so you don’t have to worry about balancing it and spilling it on
yourself and stuff like that. So anyway, so the first thing I’m going to do is set up
my suction pumps, suction pump and we’ll get to it. I’ve covered up my air filter with
a towel. I’ve brought up a nice catch pan and here’s the suction pump that I will be
using. I picked this up at a local auto parts store I think it was $5 or $10, I bought it
a while ago so I don’t remember the exact price anymore. Anyway, so the outlet is the
bottom part the inlet is the top part on this pump so I basically shove the outlet into
the catch pan and shove the inlet down the filler tube as far as it will go and that’s
it. The just basically pump. So the bubbles you hear now are just air being sucked up
so if you watch, let me see if I can get this without splattering everywhere, yeah its just
sucking up air, now I just got to pull out the hose as carefully as possible without
getting oil everywhere, tear down my catch can, and now I’m, now I go underneath the
car, underneath the truck and start unbolting the transmission pan. Most of the fluid is
now out of the transmission, it took less then, less then a minute to do and hopefully
it will save me a lot of mess. Here we are underneath the truck, I’ve put it on ramps
to, just for simplicity, here is the transmission pan, here is the exhaust, there is the main
oil drain plug, anyway, so basically right now there should be very little fluid left
in here because we have sucked it all out, a long time ago I installed an oil drain plug
just to make my life easier you can pick these up at most auto parts stores they are not,
they are just universal. They are basically just a bolt with a hole in it and a little
plug. So you can just install it whenever you want. You don’t have to the suction method
gets most of the fluid out although there still is about a quart or so in the pan, ok
so I’ve got my catch pan underneath the drain plug and I’m going to just remove it. I don’t
expect a lot of oil to come out but you never know. So there is still a little bit coming
out and I’m going to wait for it to finish draining. So I’ll be right back. ok so it
stopped draining. As I said earlier only about a quart came out. So it only really drained
for maybe 30 seconds to a minute. So anyway, I’ve replaced the o-ring on the end of this
plug, I just put it back in so now that its plugged up we can start undoing all these
bolts here. They are 5/16″ or an 8mm, the 5/16″ fits a little bit better but an 8mm
will do in a pinch. Anyway, so you want to undo all the ones in the front and leave two
of them in the back partially undone so maybe half, half way out or so the whole point is
so that when we pry it open we want the pan to drop this way first and any fluid that
still in the pan, but shouldn’t be now that I’ve drained it, but for those of you who
don’t have a drain plug there is still going to be about a quart of fluid in the pan you
wanna drop the front first so that if there is any fluid in the pan then it will spill
out the front and you can catch it in a catch can. I don’t have a catch pan that is big
enough to cover this entire pan. So what I do is I go out and I get a, I get a, wow that
was loud, I get a turkey baster pan from the local shopping mall, sorry, local supermarket
and just flatten the edges a little bit to make it wider and that fits pretty much perfectly
underneath this transmission pan. The entire contents of the transmission pan will fit
in there. This is easier then using a drain pan that only fits half of it because you’ll,
you’re bound to spill something that way. Anyway, so use a little aluminum pan like
this with a larger metal pan, this is a pan you can pick up at your local auto parts store
or whatever, I use one of these underneath my grill to protect the deck but you can also
use this for automotive reasons like I’m doing here. Anyway, so you put a large pan underneath
as a catch pan and start undoing the bolts. So I’ve got the, all the bolts undone. I left
this one in just a couple threads and this one and this one over here are done, undone
about half way. Now the reason I left this one only half, a couple threads was so that
when the pan does drop a little bit it’s not going to drop completely and it won’t bend
these, bend the pan on this side. It’s just a little bit of a safety precaution. Anyway,
so now that the pan is done the only thing that is holding it in is the, holding it onto
the transmission is the RTV that was put on there previously. So it comes from the factory
with RTV and the previous couple times I’ve done this job I did it with RTV as well. And
it seems to work really well. Recently, or relatively recently Fel-Pro has come out with
a nice rubber gasket, or rubber-ish gasket for this application and so I picked it up
and I’m going to try to use it this time and see how it goes. But anyway, now you’ve just
got to pry, pry into, into the pan to get the, to disconnect the RTV. Ok, its been a
couple of days since I last recorded it is the holidays after all so the last point I
was at was basically getting the pan off. I also in a moment of stupidity bent the pan
a little bit as you can see right here it is a little bit distorted. That’s not horrible
I can bang that back out again, its not the end of the world, just try to avoid doing
that as much as you can. So if you followed the steps I suggested in the beginning of
the video and sucked all the, as much of the fluid out as you could before even starting
on the pan there should be maybe one or two quarts left in the pan basically whatever
in this section here maybe a little bit more. And once you drop the pan a little may spill
out but not nearly as much if you didn’t suck out the oil initially. The oil when its at
normal full level is way above, like way up here that’s where the oil level is compared
to the bottom of the oil pan so just do the math and you’ll figure out that its easier
to suck it out first, or install a drain plug and drain it. Alright so I positioned my pan
underneath the transmission as much, as well as possible, as well as can be I should say
and then I. Now if this pan was full of oil as I was trying to do this it would be sloshing
all over the place. I would be coated in oil right now but thankfully it’s not so now I
can wiggle it a little bit to clear the back and drop the pan. As you can see this whole
area is still covered in oil even though its been drained for a couple days. So be wary
of that. Make sure you have a big enough pan as I suggested. So here is the transmission
pan down I just wanted to let you see that there is still a good amount of oil in there
even with my drain plug I probably could have drained it a little more before I dropped
it but still there still is a good amount in there. So as you can see it is still dropping
even though it has technically been drained for a couple days so next I’m going to try
to get as much of this gasket off as possible make it as smooth a surface as possible. First
I like to get all the big chunks of gasket off I usually use a nice big paint scraper
to scrape as much of the old gasket off as possible before getting any deeper and using
a razor blade or whatever, I use a paint scraper it gets all the big chunks off first. I use
a little bit of, get that in camera, gasket remover made by Permatex, this stuff is pretty
nasty stuff if you look its actually corroded the pan, sorry corroded the can where it has
actually sprayed out of this thing. So yeah, you don’t actually want to get this stuff
on you it will burn your skin if you leave it on there too long. And it stinks to high
heaven. Anyway, so you want to do this in a well ventilated area, you want to keep this,
keep this stuff obviously away from pets and kids and whatnot, anyway so you apply this
stuff in a nice bed around the gasket, where the gasket was I should say try to avoid getting
it into the transmission area itself, maybe use a piece of cardboard or your hand to block
it I’ll be using a piece of cardboard and apply a nice even coat, let it sit for a couple
minutes, come back and it will turn the RTV into a goop that you can literally scrape
off with a paint scraper as I was showing before. So here is the transmission pan, here
is the drain plug that I installed a few years back that as you can see is not flush with
the bottom of the pan so there would still be a little bit of oil in it if I let it drain
all the way. Right here is the magnet at the bottom of the pan that is designed to pick
up any metal fragments. Right now if you look at it there is a little film of black stuff
on top of it that is normal and expected that’s just the clutch plate material from inside
the transmission. Don’t worry about that. If you see metal chunks or big metal flakes
like glitter, a glitter type substance in that goop, or attached to this, attached to
this magnet then you need, you probably have some transmission problems that need to be
addressed and should probably be addressed shortly. You’ve got metal on metal wearing
and that shouldn’t be happening in the transmission. At least not that excessively that it causes
chunks to come off. Anyway, this pan looks pretty good, the magnet is OK. So the first
thing I’m going to do is apply that same gasket remover to the outer edge of the pan to let
the, to get the gasket off of it. So you spray the gasket remover just like before, just
spray it on, hopefully I’m getting all this on camera because I’m not really looking at
the camera screen so you just spray it on like that, a light coating, let it sit for
about 5 minutes make sure you cat doesn’t get in it, and then, or lick it because its
toxic and let it sit for about 5 to 10 minutes and when you come back the RTV should be in
like a putty form that you can just scrape off with a putty scraper. So I’ll be right
back. While you wait for the RTV to dissolve, you want to, now is a good time to clean up
and inspect the bolts that you, that you took out from the transmission pan. If you see
that little nub on the top right there you don’t want that on the bolt because if that
hits, if that bolt bottoms out then this will compress and then it will cause extra force
onto the threads that the bolt is trying to go into and you can easily strip out your
bolts. Strip out the bolt holes. The body of the transmission is made of aluminum and
these are stiffer metal I’m not really sure what probably steal so you want to make sure
that they are as clean as possible and that there is no obstructions in the way. So you
just take a wire brush I like to use a pair of vise grips to hold onto the nut, or bolt
I should say and just work around it get as much of the crap and oil as you can off then
just wipe it off. Now as you can see that one is nice and clean and that one is ready
to go so I can put that aside and work on the next one. Now enough time has past for
the RTV to dissolve so now I just take a nice paint scraper like this one and just scrape
around, just scrape as much of the big stuff off as you can like that. Should come off
fairly easily the big stuff will tend to be around the edges. As you can see it comes
off pretty simple, pretty easily I should say with just a simple paint scraper. Then
you go back with a razor blade style, excuse me, style scraper and just scrape the remaining,
remaining stuff off. Making sure not to cut yourself in the process. You may need to apply
multiple coats of that chemical especially to get into these little grooves right here
because its, they were probably covered by other, but I like to take the corner of my,
I don’t think you can see that, but I like to take the corner of my, of the scraper and
just gouge it in there and it will scrape the stuff right out. So you just do that all
the way around the perimeter of the pan and do the same thing to the transmission. And
make sure not to gouge the transmission pan or the housing as your doing it. If you do
gouge it a little bit you can get some emery cloth and smooth it out. And a couple different
grades of sand paper like 800 count, 1000 count that kind of thing to get rid of the
scratch marks that the emery cloth will leave. You want to have the surface as smooth as
possible so that the gasket has the ability to seal properly. Now that you’ve got the
pan, not completely clean but as clean as you can get it with a scraper take a wire
brush and brush off the remainder of the RTV until you get down to bare metal. You don’t
want any of that old RTV on there because that will prevent the gasket from sealing
properly. So now that its, the outer side is scraped its time to clean out the inside
of the pan. First thing you want to do is take the magnet out and inspect it to make
sure there are no metal chunks in it like I mentioned before and then take, and then
take a can of brake clean and clean it off like that and then put it in a rag to wipe
the remainder off. Get as much of that gunk, as much of that stuff off as possible and
then set it aside. Make sure not to loose this, make sure not to loose that. Your going
to need to install it later. So next you want to take the pan, let me get this on camera,
take the pan and spray it down, hose down all the crap, RTV, gunk and whatever else
is at the bottom of the pan out of there. And then take a nice clean rag and wipe it
out. In my case I have a drain plug hole so I need to open that up as well and clean out
any gunk that may have gotten in there. And then we’ll move back to the transmission,
make sure the outer perimeter of the transmission is nice and clean. Your primary concern with
this pan is one that you don’t damage it. I’ve already done that, I gotta clean that,
I’ll fix that up in another video, but also you want to make sure that it is clean. You
don’t want any oil on it at all. If there is any oil or transmission fluid on it the
RTV and/or the gasket won’t seal properly especially the RTV the RTV will actually not
seal at all and you’ll just get an oil leak. So you want to make sure it is as clean as
possible. Ok, now that the transmission is clean do not forget to put the magnet back
in. A lot of people forget to do that and it causes problems because this magnet, the
whole point in the magnet is to pick up any of the clutch material from inside the transmission.
Pick it up and make it so that it doesn’t filter through the transmission making it
wear out faster. So make sure to put that magnet back in. Once you’ve got the pan all
clean you need to move onto the, you need to clean the surface, the mating surface on
the actual transmission. Again use a nice sharp, preferably new razor blade, paint scraper
and a maybe a little bristle brush. Make sure not to make it a, you don’t want a steal brush
cause then you’ll scuff this up so you need to be careful with it. One thing to also take
note of while your cleaning this surface is to check out the holes. Each one of these
bolt holes. You want to make sure that there is no RTV left over from the previous oil
change in there. Because if there is RTV inside there and its a sealed off hole like these
in the back for example that RTV will prevent the new, the bolt that you will be inserting
back into it from tightening down all the way and that will basically, a loose bolt
is going to be a leaky bolt, so a leaky spot in your transmission pan. So make sure they
are nice and clean. Use like a small pick the gasket remover is also good for this make
sure it is nice and clean. Make sure there are no RTV blobs inside. Just give you a little
lay of the land. This one of the, one of the, the primary filter all the oil is sucked up
through here and then this is a secondary filter for the oil cooler, the transmission
oil cooler that this vehicle is equip with. I don’t know if all vehicles with this transmission
has a cooler or not, but this one does. So its got a nice screw on, screw on oil filter
similar to like your normal engine oil filter. And also to give you more layout. This is
the dipstick, this is the oil pan dipstick when you were shoving the tube, the hose for
the pump earlier in the video down into the pan this is where it was coming out. So one
thing to keep note of is this thing has been sitting here for a couple weeks because I
had some other things come up that needed attention. So its been sitting here just dripping
away I had my oil pan, giant turkey baster pan underneath it and it picked up a good
amount of oil so as I was stating, as I was saying there is oil all over this transmission.
Just because you dropped the pan doesn’t mean you changed all the oil. There is oil in the
torque converter, there is oil in the cooler lines, if you have it, in the cooler itself,
there is lines, there is oil pretty much everywhere it just loves to hide inside of a transmission.
That is why these jobs are very messy. And as you can see there is even some drops that
are getting ready to fall even though this truck has been sitting for a few weeks. So
yeah, this is why this job is messy. You want to make sure that you try to limit the amount
of mess as possible with a nice big pan under the transmission. Ok next you remove the oil
filter. There is a single T-25 torx head bolt right here that you just remove. Now be careful
because the filter will also be holding fluid in the transmission so once you remove it
around this point where the inlet, sorry the outlet to the filter is oil may come out so
make sure you have a catch pan underneath it will be a significant amount like maybe
a quart or so. But since my truck has been sitting for a while that fluid may have already
drained out I don’t know but either way you should be prepared for it. So very very little
came out. But inside the filter there is still alot so be careful of that make sure it goes
straight into a catch pan of some form. Now when this is removed there should be a little
rubber gasket with a metal ring around it at the very tip here. Make sure that it comes
out with it. Or if not make sure you go in and get it. It is very important. You’ll see
that on the replacement filter there will be a, it will either come with a little o-ring
gasket for this spot or it will already be installed. So here is the tip, here’s the
new filter that I have. If you notice this metal ring around it, around the top. That
is the gasket that you need to make sure comes out of the transmission. So to gain access
to that little gasket ring you might find it easier to remove this filter first so you
can come at it from the side. You can use just a regular oil filter wrench, the strap
style or this type that I have here. No idea where I got this I’ve had it for I don’t know
how long and it fits this guy perfectly. Anyway, so just spin it off like a normal oil filter,
again be prepared for fluid to come out like that. So now that the oil filter is out of
the way you can use some kind of pry device like a screw driver I’m actually using a 5/8″
open end wrench just jamming it in there and dropping it in my oil pan and jamming it back
in there and hopefully not dropping it this time and leveraging the opposite side to pry
it out. Like that and dropping it back in the oil pan. So there is not a lot of force
behind it so you want to make sure that you don’t mar up this area right here the lip
of the open end screw driver, sorry open end wrench, wow, the open end wrench will fit
perfectly over it and you can use it to pry with. So here are the new transmission filters.
Here is the main transmission filter and the transmission cooler filter the part numbers
for the transmission cooler filter is FK-331 and the main one is FK-319. I think I got
these from one of my local auto parts stores I can’t remember which one I tend to go with
which ever one has the lowest price. Probably Kragen, O’Reilly’s, AutoZone, PepBoys, whatever.
Any one that you get will work just fine. This Power Torque one comes with a little
rubber gasket, a little rubber gasket that I am not using. I’m going to be using one
made by Fel-Pro. It is part number TOS18733. Its the first time I have used this gasket
for this transmission so I can’t really say whether it is good or not. It is noticeably
thicker then the one that came from, that came with the filter. And it also has this
coating on it. I’m not really sure what that is for. But anyway, so I like Fel-Pro gaskets
they tend to work well. I haven’t had one fail on me yet. Knock on a lot of wood. So
next what we’ll do is we’ll pop off this little rubber piece right here and so you can insert
it manually. It is easier to get this in on its own. The reason being is that the, this
is a little bit of a tight press fit. So its just, yeah I found it easier to install this
separately. It is also how the service manual says to do it. Ok, before you install the
seal you want to take a little bit of transmission fluid and put it up in the bore that the old
one came out of just to lube it up. And then you want to take some more transmission fluid
and lube up the entire little gasket thing. Press it in slightly. You’ll need to tap it
in. I found that a 3/4″ socket fits, is perfect for it. So just tap it in slightly. And you’ll
here it, here it change once the thing is all the way in. So that is all the way in.
So now that you have it in, then you take the new filter and take some oil just like
before and put it around the little nipple thing and just slide it up in there. It will,
once, you’ll see it seat all the way. So once you’ve done that then you can get the bolt
and tighten it back, and tighten it back in to the hole that it came from. So the torque
spec for this little bolt is 40 inch / lbs so I’m using my torque wrench now to torque
it down. That s virtually nothing. There. And I dropped the bolt, the torx head in the,
in the pan. That’s awesome. So now that you’ve got that torqued down now you can install
the screw in oil filter. First thing you do is you want to clean off the surface that
it is going to be screwing onto. Making sure that there isn’t any old gasket left over.
Then you take, like a normal engine oil filter, you take a little bit of old fluid and, I’m
trying to get this on camera, and you put it around the rubber o-ring. I also like to
put it on the threads just to make it install easier. Since these threads are plastic it
is not really a big issue but for some filters that are metal it is good to have a little
bit of lubrication in there to prevent it, to make it easier to remove later on. So then
you just take it and screw it on in. Once it comes in contact with the top, again, like
a regular engine oil filter you just tighten it down and additional half to 3 quarter turn.
So one quarter, half, three quarter. You don’t want to tighten it down so tight that it squishes
the rubber o-ring and deforms it which will cause an oil leak. You don’t want an internal
oil leak in here because it is, this is trying to do some filtration, if you’ve got a leak
in here, if this is leaking into the oil pan then that is unfiltered oil getting back into
the oil pan and this, you’re basically negating the whole point in having this filter in the
first place. So just be careful and install it, install it like I just suggested. Now
its time to install the pan back on the car. So the first thing you need to do is one,
you don’t forget to put the magnet back in. So as you saw in one of my other videos where
I bent this back into shape after I had bent it taking it during this job I got it as smooth
as I could but I couldn’t get it perfectly smooth. I don’t know if you can see it on
the camera but there a little bit of ripples in the metal right here. And since I’m going
to be using this Fel-Pro gasket I’m afraid that the gasket may not seal properly around
this area. So what I’m going to do is in the areas where I had to bang on it, which is
basically this side here and in here I’m going to apply a light coat of RTV only on the pan.
I’m not going to put it on the transmission. And then I’m, so that will be pan RTV, regular
gasket then transmission. If you don’t use one of these gaskets you would apply a light
coat of RTV all the way around, all the way around the perimeter of the pan. So for those
of us who are going to be using a gasket one of the problems as you can see is keeping
the gasket in place because it may have formed whatever way that it was when it came from
the factory. The Fel-Pro gasket is kind of cool in that they make the holes slightly
smaller then the actual bolt holes so what that does is you can basically put a bolt
in there and it will hold it in place. So that is what I’m going to do here. It also
creates a good sealing surface because it prevents the gasket from leaking around the
bolt holes. Now an alternate approach is that if you don’t have a gasket that has the smaller
size holes you can use a little bit of string in some strategically placed locations to
hold it in place as you put it up. And once you put it up and get a couple bolts in you
cut the string and pull it out and it will be as if it was never there. Another approach
is you can get some tacky spray on stuff, I’m not really sure, glue I guess, that you
can spray around the perimeter of the pan to help hold this, hold it in place and you’re
trying to get it up onto the transmission. Ok, now I’m going to apply the light coat
of RTV around here. I prefer Permetex Ultra Black. You can also use the Permetex red kind,
what is it, the High Temp RTV Silicone just be careful it is very sticky. I use rubber
gloves when I, whenever I work with RTV. Primarily because it is this sticky. It also has a,
you have to put it on fairly quickly so once you get it on, in place you want, you wanna
get it mounted to the car in place within 5 to 10 minutes. You can buy this in smaller
tubes I just happened to pick up a large tube like this. It is easier for me to just use
the hand pump rather then the tooth paste tube style or the smaller tube style which
my auto parts store doesn’t carry. Anyway, so I’m going to apply a light bead around
the perimeter around where I know I have been making, being bad I guess, making sure to
go around the bolt holes. I don’t need to use as much as I would if I was only using
RTV primarily because I also have the regular gasket over top. That’s about, that’s good
enough. Ok so, now that I have the RTV down, whether I was going to be using the gasket
or not, one of the things I like to do is to take my finger and need it into place.
Need it in like this. What this does is, I’m making sure the holes don’t get covered up.
What this does is it takes out any air bubbles that may be in the RTV and makes sure that
the RTV gets spread out evenly over the entire gasket surface. Now I just place the gasket
and put it in place. The RTV will hold it but I’m going to put a bolt through anyway.
You want to make sure that you don’t cover up any of the bolt holes as your doing this.
Because that will get shoved up into the holes in the transmission and the bolt holes in
the transmission while as I said earlier you don’t want to have RTV inside of them. So
I am now ready to install this. So, yeah, I am gonna work fast. So once you’ve got the
transmission in place, sorry the pan in place double check that it is nice and clean. You
don’t want any oil in the, in between the gasket and the and the transmission pan. Anyway,
so get a couple threads on your bolt holes in a couple different spots. Ok once you’ve
got them all started you want to tighten them down, keep going around in a star pattern
similar to how you do when you are installing a tire. So it appears that my battery died
when I was torquing things down. So as you are tightening it, if you are just using pure
RTV and you are not using a rubber gasket like I am you just want to tighten them down
until you start seeing the RTV start to ooze out slightly. It will just start to bulge
out a little bit at which point you stop. you don’t, you don’t keep turning, you don’t
go till it stops you just stop. And go to the next, go to the next bolt. Just keep going
all the way around until it starts to ooze out. Basically then you have to just wait.
It takes about 5 to 10 minutes to start, for the RTV to start to cure. And then it takes
about an hour for it to set. And to fully dry it takes about 24 hours. So according
to the RTV bottle it says that once you’ve, once you’ve gotten it to ooze out a little
bit weight about an hour then turn each bolt about a half turn. The once, and then your
pretty much done. Now you wait anywhere between 12 and 24 hours for the RTV to cure and then
you put the fluid in. You don’t want to put it in before that because you need to wait
for the RTV to dry otherwise you’ll cause a leak. With this gasket, as I was saying
I’m using it on the front of the transmission to cover up the dimples that I put in while
trying to repair the pan. So with that, because of that I’m also going to have to wait that
12 hours to wait for the RTV to cure. If I didn’t have the RTV at all and I was just
using a pure gasket I’d just be able to torque it all down to 105 inch /lbs, inch pounds,
torque it all down to 105 inch/lbs and then put the oil in and I’d be good to go. So its
the next day. The RTV has had a chance to fully cure and dry so now it is time to put
the fluid back in the vehicle. It is not just like engine oil where you dump in the required
about and your done you have to go through this procedure to make sure that you add enough
fluid and add it properly. The reason for this, at least this is my assumption, is that
because the transmission holds so much fluid and because it likes to hold pockets of fluid
in various spots it is really hard to determine exactly how much fluid is removed every time
you drop the pan. Yes you could measure it out and stuff like that but that amount that
will come out will vary with every oil change based on the amount of drips that occur. And
you saw earlier that this car has been sitting for quite a few, quite a while with the pan
down and it was still dropping fluid so according to the service manual is the first thing you
should do is if you just replaced the fluid, the filter and the fluid, your initial amount
of oil should be about 10 pints which is 5 quarts of ATF+4 transmission fluid. If you
completely disassembled the transmission and allowed the torque converter and everything
else to drain out then you want your initial amount to be 12 quarts. Since I let this sit
for so long and so much extra fluid came out I know more then 5 quartz came out because,
due to what I saw in the pan and on top of that I don’t think that all, that the entire
thing got completely flushed all 12 quarts. So I’m going to put as my initial amount 8
quarts just to be on the safe side. So one thing I like to do when I know I’m going to
be pouring an entire bottle of fluid into the funnel is I like to take a set of pliers,
a large set of pliers, and so I’m using a gallon jug of oil because I in bulk, and take
it and crimp it to basically give it a little pour spout. It makes it so that it comes out
a little easier so you can control it and you have less drips. Ok so once you have all
the oil in the transmission, the initial amount I should say, you need to let the fluid settle
right now its probably, a good amount of it is probably in the fill tube, as well as just
sitting in the bottom of the pan. You want to give the fluid a chance to settle and level
itself out give it maybe a minute or two and then once you do that you need to test the
fluid level. To get an accurate reading the transmission needs to be at operating temperature.
Now remember the temperature gauge on the dash that’s showing you the coolant temperature
in the motor which is a rough approximation of what the actual temperature is. That doesn’t
tell you what the temperature of the transmission is. They are two completely separate things.
To get the transmission up to normal operating temperature you need to drive it around, run
it through its gears and let the fluid flow where it needs to go. Before you actually
test the transmission fluid level you need to put the parking brake on, you want to put
it into park and then you want to go through each of the drive selectors so put it into
drive, put it into second, put it into first, put it into reverse, and put it in neutral
and let it sit for a couple seconds in between each setting, so put it into drive for 2 seconds,
3 seconds whatever. Put it into second for a couple seconds, put it into first for a
couple seconds, and so on. Then once you, once you’ve done that put the, put the transmission
back in park and then you can test the fluid level. On mine there is no hashed area there
is just a section for cold and a section for hit. So you want it somewhere in this range
here. This is low and this is where you want it. So if your check of the transmission fluid
shows that you need to add fluid add about a half quart to a quart at a time. A little
goes a long way. You don’t want to overfill this thing. If you overfill it however, it
is not the end of the world, you can use a suction pump like I used in the beginning
to suck out any excess fluid once you get it, so you can get it to where you need it
to be. But once you’ve sucked that fluid out it is useless, its garbage you don’t want
to reuse it so your just wasting the fluid. You want to try to, you want to try to lowly
bring the fluid level to where it needs to be. In addition, once you’ve added fluid,
especially if you’ve added a significant amount, you want to, you need to give that new fluid
time to heat up and get up to operating temperature just like the initial transmission fluid you
added. This will take a few minutes, so you want to let it sit, you want to let it idle
or just drive it around a little just to heat it back up again. So this is a chart from
the service manual for this vehicle. There you go, 2003 service manual. And its a handy
chart, it basically shows you where your transmission fluid level should be at a given temperature.
So like at 180 degrees, which is normal operating temp you want it at the top hole. If its even
higher then that you want it just a little bit above. Its going to be expected to be
there when its in the full range. So that basically helps you test this. Ok, so that’s
pretty much it. I’ve got all the fluid back in the vehicle and its at the right level,
at the level I want it to be. Hopefully this helped you out if you have any questions or
comments please leave them in the comments section below. If you want to see more videos
subscribe. I’ve got more videos coming down the pipe. I work on my own vehicles, I don’t
own a shop or anything like that so things that I do are based on things that either
brake or need maintenance on my vehicles. My vehicles are 10 plus years old, all of
them, so they have things, they need fixing. They’ve always got something going on with
them. If you have any questions, please leave comments. If you liked it, click the like
button and subscribe. Thanks alot.

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