How To Fix Broken Odometer & Trip Meter — Ford Mustang (’94-’98) and others
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Hey, this is another video by Pet Rock and
today I’m working on my wife’s ’98 Ford Mustang. So recently my wife went and got gas and she
pressed the odometer reset button at which point it went to zero, however, after that
the odometer stopped working. It’s about 500 miles short right now. So while I’m working on my wife’s ’98 Ford
Mustang this fix also applies to ’94 to ’98 Ford Explorer, F150, F250, obviously Mustang,
Ranger, Taurus and the Mercury Sable. The problem is that inside the instrument
cluster there are some plastic gears that control rotation of the odometer and they
tend to get brittle and crack with age and just basically disintegrate. So the fix is to just replace those gears. So the first thing we need to do is remove
the bezel around the outer edge of the instrument cluster. So to get the bezel off, first thing you need
to do is to remove the headlight switch right here. So the trick to this is you pull it out and
rotate it until you see a little slot right here. So inside that slot there is a little metal
tab right here. You want to push this outward this way towards
the drivers seat. That will release the spring pressure holding
the plastic knob onto it’s metal shaft. So you take your small screw driver, you pry
into the little slot. Release the spring pressure. I’m going to try to not block the camera and
then just pull. Ok now you need to remove the two screws holding
the bezel in. To give yourself a little bit more access
it might be advisable to lower the steering wheel down a little bit so that you can get
in here a little bit easier. These are 7mm bolts. So once you’ve got those bolts removed the
only thing holding this bezel on are two tabs down here and two tabs around in here. So you get a plastic trim tool or if you’re
like me and you can’t find yours, a plastic kitchen spatula and stick it in the top here
and work your way towards the right and pry out. And then do the same on the left and pry out. They’ll just pop right off. Then once you have that undone then you can
just pull the bezel all the way out. Now there are four 7mm slash T20 Torx bit
bolts. One here. One here. One here and one right there. I’m not sure if you can really see that or
not. You undo those bolts and the cluster will
come out. So now that you’ve got those bolts out what
you want to do is tilt the instrument cluster like this. The bottom comes out towards you and then
pull it out. Like that. So you have one cable there. There is a little latch on the far side you
need to press and then you pull the cable out. On the left side there is another connector
that you need to remove as well. So it’s a little hard for me to show disconnecting
those connectors with the camera with just two hands. So I’m just going to do it. And there you go. And there is our prize. Ok. So now we have the instrument cluster on the
work bench. Before we go any further you want to take
note of all these needles and there positions so that you can get them back in the same
spot when you put everything back together again. One way of doing that is just by taking a
picture or in my case doing a video. So once you have all that done next you want
to remove the eight small bolts that hold the front of this bezel on. A 7/32″ socket will fit. It will be a little bit loose but it will
fit. But you can also use a T-15 Torx bit which
will fit perfectly. So that’s what I’m going to use. Ok, once you have all of the bolts undone
you just lift straight up and remove the front bezel. Next you want to remove the two side instrument
panels. They are just being held in by the electrical
pins for the stepper motors behind these two dials. So you just basically take a small screwdriver
and just lightly pry up like that and remove it. So these pins were all that were holding it
in place. Into those sockets right here. You do that on both sides. Ok, once you have that done the only thing
holding the center on is this one small bolt. It’s also a T-15 or a small socket. So once you have that bolt out then you just
lift straight up and it will come right out. So now that you have it out you need to flip
it over. You want to be careful and not bend these
plastic tabs here and here. You also don’t want to damage the needles
or the face of your speedometer and tachometer. So just set a towel down and flip your piece
over. So here is your trip meter and it’s gears. And here is your odometer. This cog right here is what rotates the odometer. This motor is what spins when the computer
tells it to move based on the speed sensor and it spins a worm gear that’s down in here. You can barely see it. This little white thing. That rotates this gear which then rotates
this gear which then rotates these numbers. That’s basically how the odometer works. So the gears that we will be replacing is
this gear right here and the worm gear itself. So the first thing we need to do is remove
this motor right here. It’s held on by a tab right here and an equal
one on the other side. So what I’m going to do is I’m going to take
the nail from my middle and pry up on the far tab. I’m then going to use my thumb and index finger
to rotate the motor clockwise. I’m also going to use a small screw driver
to pry up on this near tab. Like that. And now the motor is out. So there are a bunch of different failure
points in this gear system. Primarily because it’s plastic. So you have a plastic worm gear that can be
shredded or broken or whatever or the gear inside here could be disintegrated and braking. In my case this gear is all sorts of chewed
up which means the worm gear couldn’t, even though the worm gear was spinning this gear
was not which was what was making my odometer not move. So you might get lucky and be able to pull
this little gear out with a pair of needle nose pliers or a screwdriver, or pry it out
with a screwdriver or something like that. In my case I’m going to use a 90 degree hook
pick and just put it behind it and pull up. So you can see in my case the gear is all
sorts of chewed up and even the pivot point on this side is broken. Although that could have happened while I
was removing this gear. So next you want to go in and remove any of
the little bits of plastic that you might find. Like that. If you are lucky there is some grease in there
that might help make things stick to whatever it is you are trying to use to pry with. So just inspect all the way, all the way in
here and make sure you get out all the bits. You don’t want an old piece of plastic getting
in the gears and chewing them up again making you have to do this job all the way over again. Next you need to take the worm gear off. So you just take a small screwdriver and pry
up on it. Until it comes out. It will be a tight fit. Now you get your replacement gears. The manufacturer is Standard Motor Products. The part number is C82001. RockAuto lists them as a speedometer drive
gear even though the work for the odometer. So now you need to press on the worm gear
onto the motor. Now this is going to be a very tight fit. So you want as much help as you can get. What I like to do is I like to put a little
bit of silicone lube in the little hole right there. You don’t need a lot. And then press on the gear. Rotating it as you go down. You don’t want to press the worm gear on all
the way. You want to have it a little bit raised up
off the base of the motor so you don’t have any friction there. You want the worm gear to spin freely. About the thickness of the tip of a screw
driver. Just as long as the gear itself isn’t coming
in contact with the motor you should be fine. So now you take your new gear and drop it
into place. Making sure that when you press down that
you’re not pressing down on the pins on the back so you want to support the face of the
speedometer as you press down. And it will pop right into place. Ok once you’ve got the gear in place now is
your opportunity to fix your odometer as far as the number of miles on it. If you rotate the gear upwards like this it
will slowly advance the milage. If you rotate it the opposite direction it
won’t do anything. It will just click. So no you can’t roll your odometer backwards. So just keep rolling it forwards and hopefully
you know how many miles your odometer is off so you can reset it back to where it should
be. In my case it’s 500 miles so I’m going to
be doing this a while. Now if I had the time I’d figure out which
signals went to this motor and make the motor do it for me. However I just don’t have the time and there
is also no schematic for this system. So I would literally have to back probe the
whole thing and pretty much figure out the schematic myself and that’s longer then it
would probably take me to roll this back on my own. I rotated mine around about 535 miles. Which is a rough estimate of how many miles
this odometer is low. So now I should be back to close to what the
odometer should be. Next you take the worm gear and put it in
it’s bore. Just like that. And once you have it in place you rotate it
to lock it in place. So while you have everything apart now is
the perfect time to check out all of the lights that are in here and up here and make sure
that they are all in good condition. If you see any that are bad obviously replace
them. You can pick them up at most auto parts stores
fairly cheaply. So if you see any corrosion on these contacts
or on the pins themselves you should take a little bit of fine sandpaper and remove
any of the rust or corrosion that’s on them. Then what you should also do is take a little
bit of dielectric grease, you can pick this up at most auto parts stores and put a little
dap on each contact. Like that right here. You don’t need a lot. Just a little dab will do you. So that when you put everything back together
again the dielectric grease will coat over the pins on the back and it will help prevent
any future corrosion from forming. It’s just a good preventative measure. Especially if you live in high salt areas
like near the ocean or if you live in the rust belt. So once you’ve got that done you just take
the center speedometer and tachometer and place them and press down. Then you do the same thing for the temperature
and fuel gauge. And oil and battery levels. Making sure to press all the way down. Now you also want to make sure that your needles
are back in the same positions they were before. The motors that spin these are not stepper
motors so they are not geared. They are just straight spinning so if you
move this over here the fuel gauge is going to be off. So you need to make sure that they are in
the right spot for when they were when you took them off. Put the bolt back in. Just snug them down. Don’t put too much torque on them. They are going into plastic. You’ll strip them out. Now if you got any finger prints or anything
like that on your gauges you might want to wipe them off now with a damp cloth. You don’t want to have it dripping because
you don’t want to get water inside the instrument cluster. Now you take the top bezel and put it in place. And screw all the bolts back in. So now just putting everything back together
again is just the reverse of taking it apart. I hope this video helped you out. If you have any questions, comments or concerns
please them in the comments section below. If you like this video please click the thumbs
up button. If you want to see more videos like this one
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20 thoughts on “How To Fix Broken Odometer & Trip Meter — Ford Mustang (’94-’98) and others

  1. Wow that was chewed up. My digital cluster is about $1200 to replace on my F150 , it's like a computer more so then the old style like yours. Nice fix. 👍👍

  2. Great video. I use a small, round, felt polishing pad on a Dremel to rotate my odometer forward. Use low speed on the Dremel and lightly touch the pad to the drive gear. A 45 minute job adding 500 miles then becomes a two minute job.

  3. Ok i have a 1998.ford mustang.3.8L,V6, standard…..my speedometer.stopped working.directly on top crossing the highest point of . Bridge taking you to Galveston island….I removed the whole odometer cluster panal.. opened it all up.. the gear was broken..the worm I replaced any ways……I also replaced.the speed sensor..twice thinking the first one was bad.. Everything on the odometer cluster is good I've managed to calibrate the needles light up the panel.and I cleaned up behind where u install the bulbs.. I straightened out any bent copper lines going to where your connections go….but no working Mph.Needle.the check engine light stays on …which says no reading from sensor…or faulty connection… what am I missing.or what do I do next.cuz I went balls out an replaced all lifters , pushrods.rocker arms .I bought a all out gasket I got everything.i replace all three of the different freeze plugs.i resurfaced the heads…. painted anything I could old Ford blue… like head covers.brackets an..I cleaned the air intake inside an out I got a new transmission.withba resurfaced flywheel….I installed a racing clutch.. there are three things I need to do.1is find any gear debris.. overlooked…an clean it again….2clean abs sensors on all four wheels.an …3make sure the gear that slides into the transmission.is good an verify if it's the correct one….

  4. HI, I have a ford explorer 98 XLT and all the gauges are fine except the one that shows the speed, I already replaced speed sensor and still my speed gauge does not work, any suggestion?

  5. I wonder what's the difference between SMP #C82001 and DORMAN #924388, which Rockauto suggests as the only one? It seems only the price is different (i.e. 20€ vs. 40€). Nice job! Finding the other SMP part number saves me 20€ + tax + P&P. Thanks! 🙂

  6. is it the same gear for miles an hour or kilometers an hour ie canadian or american cars i replaced still not woorking does the worm gear have a certian direction

  7. Thank you sooo much. I really appreciate this Sir. Great video. Sir,. If it's not to much trouble. By any chance would it be ok to see a video on how to remove the top fuel lines near the AC tank on the passenger firewall side. I'm having trouble and it's leaking. Any help you extend is greatly appreciated Sir.

  8. Thank you for this video! You've given me the confidence to fix my odometer. You are an excellent teacher :-)!

  9. I just got my 96 mustang and the people I bought it from said the mile gauge needs fixed I’m just not sure how many miles off it is 😅

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