How To Install A Dry NOS Nitrous Oxide System

for dry kit set up you’ll wanna have a few
components available to help you select an installation point for your fan spray
nozzle you should do a hand threaded assembly of
both nitrous solenoids with their connection tee fitting
and install the mounting bracket at the extension fitting for the nitrous
pressure regulator along with its hose barb next screw the
nitrous filter into the initial solenoid then thread in the feed line that travels
from the secondary solenoid to the nozzle along with the tuning jet now you’ll have a
temporary plumbing assembly that will help you determine a number of
variable mounting options place the temporary plumbing Assembly under the
hood and look around for the best point to
introduce the nitrous into your engine the nozzle and hose will most likely need
to be inserted sideways rather than straight down because of
hood clearance issues with the hose protruding from the nozzle locate the throttle body it’s the unit
where the main air intake tube enters the engine it has
an actuation lever that controls the throttle plate inside the nozzle needs to be positioned just
upstream of your throttle body but can not be upstream of a mask air flow
sensor finding a good location between the air
cleaner and the throttle body anywhere about six to 12 inches ahead of
the throttle body opening is best for most installs you also have the option drilling into
the throttle body opening itself as long as the throttle plate operation
isn’t interfered with drilling into an intake tube is another
popular option another final option is using your stock
plastic or rubber intake duct along with the nozzle mounting collar
and it’s nut that’s included in your kit while you’re
here with the temporary plumbing assembly consider the placement of the solenoids
and the routing of the nitrous line from the bottle also
think about the vacuum line that will travel from the nitrous
regulator to the stock engine fuel pressure regulator once you’ve
picked an entry point for the nozzle check that the feed line routing allows
you to mount the solenoid bracket to a convenient place look for an existing bolt or if it works
better consider adding a bold and/or adapter bracket to an unused per-threaded hole in the
engine also remember you can change the orientation
of the nitrous pressure regulator if needed the regulator can be positioned straight
down perpendicular to the solenoids or straight up and between the solenoids
now that you found a good spot for the nozzle and solenoid bracket we can get to the actual installation of
the nozzle if you’re going to drill into the throttle body opening you
actually be drilling through the clamp the end of the intake
tube and the throttle body opening itself to get the most secure fit for the
nozzle you’ll need to start by removing the intake tube and then stuff a piece of rag or paper
towel up against the closed throttle plate you can tape the edges to help keep
shavings out at the intake and throttle body interior also stop a large piece of rag into the
intake tube to catch any debris from falling
toward the air filter now replace the intake tube and it’s hose
clamp and tighten the assembly so the tube is in its final install
position mark the drilling point on the clamp or
the intake tube if you have a split clamp like this and with the quarter inch drill bit make
a nice clean hole all the way through into the throttle body
opening now pull off the intake tube and clamp leave the throttle body opening plugged
and using the thread tap that was included in your kit add threads to the hole in the throttle
body opening be aware you may need to remove a couple nearby
components in order to get a full spin out of the tap wrench next use a five
sixteenths inch bit to enlarge the holes in the clamp and the
inlet duct make sure your new threads are clean and
DeBoer any outer or inner edges with some fine
grit sandpaper use a vacuum and/or pressurized air to
clear away all the metal and plastic shavings from
inside the throttle body and inside the inlet duct interior
remove all tape plugs or rags and make sure that no
debris was caught in any interior ridge’s of the intake tube
now you can reassemble the intake duct be sure to reset the alignment of the
holes as you tighten the clamp there is an alternate method for nozzle
mounting if you don’t want to drill into your throttle body there’s a nozzle mounting collar and nut
that was included in your kit for installing the nozzle
into the stock inlet duct or an aftermarket intake tube as you
decide on an entry point for the nozzle keep in mind that you need hand access
to the interior drilling point to install the mounting collar from inside the duct and will also need
to hold the collar steady with a tool while you tighten the nut from the
outside with that said drill a seven sixteenths inch hole into the inlet duct while it’s removed
from the vehicle clean out any shavings with air or vacuum and make sure the edges are smooth as we
described install the collar from the interior of the tube add some
teflon paste or a paste type sealer to the collar here
now from the inside hold the collar with the tool while you
tighten the nut from the outside at this point make sure your entire
intake assembly has been reassembled and tightened
properly so we can install the nozzle to its new home the nozzle will thread in the place and needs
two things for a proper install the first is to mark the exposed area
of the nozzle that should face forward before
installing look at the exit direction of the nitrous from the
nozzle and directly above it edge a mark in the exposed area of the
nozzle so that as you thread it in you’ll know where to set
the final pointing direction of the spray the second thing you need
to do is seal the threads of the nozzle do not use teflon tape to seal the
threads pieces can break off and enter your intake stream potentially
causing severe engine damage so use a teflon paste or a plumbing pipe
thread sealant that contains PTFE which is a teflon
derivative with a thin even amount of sealant on
the threads spin the nozzle into either the threads
you created in the throttle body or the mounting collar that you
installed in your intake duct or tube don’t let the nozzle bottom out
in the threads when spinning the nozzle in by hand if
its seats and stops turning just spin the nozzle slightly backwards
until the mark that you made on the nozzle points directly towards the throttle
body of the engine the nozzle should feel secure but remember the teflon paste needs a
bit of time to solidify

100 thoughts on “How To Install A Dry NOS Nitrous Oxide System

  1. cone of the filter? not if you have a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor between the filter and the TB (throttle body). As stated in the video above the Nozzle should go in between the MAF and TB.

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  4. if it was this easy i wuda done this but putting nos on your car is illegal were i live unless you are using the car as a paddock car or dragster. nice vid too

  5. Putting and having NOS in your car is not illegal. It's illegal to use it on the streets. Little bit f***ed up I know, but its true. Somewhat understandable for the kinds of guys who like to have some fun with their daily drivers on the weekends and add some temporary power just for that occasion.

  6. +jh0ssimar its not as easy as just installing it and going. depending how much you spray, you need a fuel pump, bigger injectors, and a tune. i would get a tune regardless so i know i won't pop holes in my pistons.

  7. as this video explains everything, i dont think that ppl that dont know where the intake is located and what it is should install N2O to their cars 😀

  8. THIS GUIDE IS ALL WRONG!!!! Do not ever put nitrous to the intake pipe. The way engines are set up not all cylinders get the same air ratio but they do get the same fuel. If you put that much bos to the first cylinder and not distribute it to all of them equil you will met the first one. I know from experiance amd I had a tune. Do not do this. But a nitrous fuel rail so the spray will go through the injectors

  9. This video should be removed from the net, as it's promoting a product that is guaranteed to damage any engine its fitted to.

  10. I Love at 5:40 ( pieces of teflon tape can flake off and go into intake and cause SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE) haha yea thats what we need to worry about LOL Tape…   Dont do this this is so stupid… way to blow a motor quick


  12. I believe that the Guy who did the Audio Performance in this video is the same one who did the Audio Performance at Engine Rebuilding Series for BOXWERNCH, 
    AM I right @HolleyPerformance ?!

  13. Lol Nathan ive ran dry nitrous on a couple of my cars never blew the motor !lol smh nay sayersss. ..

  14. I'm not one of the haters I drive a 5.7 hemi modded with 75 shot and don't have problems but with nitrous the only thing you don't want to do is over Rev bc that's one quick way to blow your motor

  15. the vacuum line that goes from the nitrouse to the engine fuel pressure regulator, do I add a Y/T adaptor to add the vacuum line from the nitrous or do I remove it and just install the vacuum line from the nitrouse??????? pls help

  16. This dry system may as well be called a "lean system" , I didn't hear anywhere here them explain where it gets the extra fuel needed, maybe the extra nitrogen and oxygen just magically burn with each other???

    I thought it was a common (even if not perfect) practice on a dry system to DEFINITELY put the injector BEFORE the mass airflow sensor to fool the computer into giving it more fuel, not really fooling the computer, the sensor senses the cooler and denser air so it uses the injectors that are already there to increase the fuel accordingly.

    Don't just say something and not give a reason, why can you never put it 'up steam' of the air flow, why wouldn't you, you have basically injected more air flow???

    Does the exhaust oxygen sensor tell the computer it is too lean and increase the fuel injected?

    Teflon tape causing severe engine damage ????? Titanium tape maybe.

  17. It's funny how many know it alls are saying this will blow up. It's a small shot so it can be installed on a bone stock engine but most people don't do nitrous until after they've done fuel injectors fuel pump and exhaust and that's not a have to do but helps get all the power potential from the nitrous. using a 25hp shot on a stock car probably won't give the full 25hp but is also unlikely to cause damage as long as it's not being hit at partial throttle and for extended periods. it's meant for drag racing and it works fine for what it is.

  18. hi there, very insightful upload so thank you for the added knowledge. i plan on sticking a kit through my automatic 04 chrysler crossfire but not sure if wet or dry would be better, any tips/ideas? also if you have come across that type vehicle with a kit before, do you know what install worked best for them?

  19. The only reason problem happen because of non forged internals and the piston ring gap is too small. And too much shot.

  20. there is alot if stupid motherfuckers on here lol. you all act like they are insisting that you drop in a 100 shot on a stock motor or some shit! this is a small purge 25 to 50 shot, it wont hurt the motor nor do you have to a shitload of upgrades, unless your gonna act like a crack addict or Honda driver and peg on that button like its goin outta style. get a fucken clue dumbshits ! ive never seen such idiots on one video before!

  21. Of course they put it on a freaking Honda. Just what we need, more 16 year olds trying to hop up freaking Hondas. This video was definitely made to pander to fukn teenagers. Would you like fries with that??

  22. if you have to describe what and where the throttle body is then that person does not need nitrous.

  23. I ran this kit on multiple, dry manifold four-cylinders. One was lost to nitrous but it wasn't the dry system itself, rather it was the joke of a pressure 'safety' switch NOS and others sells with these kits.

    Most efi cars today will cut injectors out in an overrev condition.

    That cut can be induced by either over-rev's (redline) or by hitting the speed limiter (top speed cut). In both cases, the computer will cut fuel to the injectors.

    NOS's pressure switch is supposed to register fuel pressure loss, and disable the nitrous fogger from spraying.

    That is all and good if you have a car that NOS cut their teeth on…an old honkin', carburetor fed engine because their fuel pressure is not cut at 'the injector' cause it doesn't have injectors.

    Older V8's also don't have rev limits and speed limits.

    If you over rev or over speed an efi car today, the switch that NOS gives you will NEVER see that loss of fuel because it's usually tied in to the feed line to the rail. The switch will see 45psi (or whatever your particular pressure is on your car) and keep that fogger spraying.

    The whole reason they use the 'nitrous regulator' is to augment pressure to the fuel pressure regulator. When you hit the nitrous, the fuel pressure is ramped up to meet the fuel demands of the nitrous. You MUST have that extra fuel during nitrous spray or you will toast your engine.

    My blow event was racing a ws6 on the freeway. I went into over-speed and the injectors cut fuel….engine went boom.

    The dry kits have the drawback also of overcoming the fuel supply during the first few seconds of nitrous hits before pressure can be ramped up to provide for it's use. This causes a lean condition initially, but I never experienced a failure from that in all the kits I installed.

    However, ONE OF THE BIGGEST NO-NO'S is putting a single fogger WET system (where the nitrous is fed with the fuel) before the throttle body.

    Dry manifolds were designed to flow only air…they have long runners to help them tune teh torque profile of the engine. Fuel will hit the walls of these long runners and fall out of a vapor, causing unequal fuel to the cylinders.

    And, in some cases when dry manifolds run a wet kit, for example the last couple years of a saturn or other car that positioned the throttle body facing upwards, fuel pooled in the low curves of the intake manifold runners and did ignite and blow up the intake. I know of two cases personally where that happened.

    The best, safest, ultimate way to run nitrous would be the direct port systems. In some cases, limitations on what hp level you run, on say a four cylinder being perhaps 70hp (stock internals) can be increased to a 100hp kit, using the individual kits.

    This way, the exact amount of nitrous and fuel goes into each cylinder and if care is used (making sure not to engage below 3000 rpms, using highest octane gas at all times-maybe even an octane enhancer AND some colder heat range plugs), nitrous is addictive and fun to use.

    Good luck.

  24. Says minimum of 6 inches from throttle plate but then says you can install right at the plate….

  25. This is like the instructions on a shampo bottle. Apply, rince, repeat. If you need instructions on how to shampoo you dont need nitro neither baaaaahahahahaha. WTF ????? ??????????????????

  26. fuck the police man thet with holsin 900 bhp turbos two of them and an ECU or ECM remap crank shaft improved injectors and fuel lines breaks and improved speedO and suspension then you have s fast carbut you may need a second battery and drive flat tyers for speed traps….. complements from the ghost

  27. If anyone knows me they know I hate bullshit and you can certainly use Teflon sealant on the thread but don’t get it on the end of the fitting make sure the Teflon only stays on the thread and don’t put it on the initial one thread

  28. Don't do this people go for a wet kit, blew my 350z motor useing this , also do not add nitrous to a vq35de these engines are junk. ima just stick to my reliable BMW

  29. This is whaf ricers use, if you really want to install nitrous, use a plate system or direct port injection

  30. Not only is adding nitrous without extra petrol retarded but also you put the jet in the wrong place jets need to be right next to the solonoid other wise you end up metering a mixture of liquid and gaseous nitrous

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