67 thoughts on “How To Use A Torque Wrench – GCN’s Guide To Tightening Bolts Safely

  1. The explanation in video is slightly wrong. You should not pull the wrench anymore after you hear the first click – at that point you should stop and not try to tighten anymore to produce another click as you might then exceed desired torque. Also, to put the wrench into "virtually zero" setting might be a bit misleading as well. After your job is done, you should put the wrench into lowest torque setting specified by manufacturer, i.e. if your wrench is for 2-14nm, then you should set it back to 2nm, not to 0 even though it might be possible to turn the knob to 0.

  2. Avoid particularly lightweight stuff and you won't need a torque wrench at all. Peace of mind and no difference in performance for the recreational cyclist. Some of these videos subliminally "invite" you to buy things you don't need at all.

  3. What ever happened to fixing bikes with cheap regular tools? All of my tools for fixing my MTB just cost less than $5.00. Expensive bikes with lousy torque sensitive parts equals expensive fixes.

  4. And pay attention to whether the torque wrench works in both clockwise and anti-clockwise direction. Most (cheaper) wrenches can be used in both directions, but only prevent over-tightening in clockwise direction. This is important for bottom brackets and pedals.

  5. Could you do a video explaining what a 6-day race is and how it is scored? I feel as if though I'm reading Greek whenever Velonews or another outlet covers this kind of event. 

  6. Watched video, immediately went downstairs to reset torque wrench. It'd been sitting in its box at 6Nm, woops! Cheers 🙂

  7. Hey Simon, thanks for the informative video. However, was just thinking: that's one funky old belt you got there. Before this turns into another sweatstained-pink-GCN-shirt-running-gag how about getting rid of it 🙂 ?

  8. Don't forget to only wind up to a setting, never down. If you have to go to a lower torque setting for a different bolt, always back it off past the desired setting, then wind it back up to the desired setting. This eliminates any backlash. And yes Mr. Patchy Pits was correct when he said store it nearly fully unwound. This also helps you wind up to the setting next time .

  9. Good video as always, although a lot of manufacturers are putting bolts in ever increasing harder to reach places which in turn is a pain in the a#* to torq, ie canyon speedmax seat post bolt.

    Wish manufacturers thought about this.

  10. also notice that the first 'click' of the torque wrench may cause by impact load, u should gently tighten the bolt for another ONE 'click' to make sure u've reach the specific value. u may also gently hammer the bolt and surrounding area by a mallet before the second torque, this help to release uneven stress between components, then u may find u need to tight the bolt a bit more, could be as much as 1/4 turn, to get the 'click'

  11. Re lubed bolts, I've never ever heard of any manufacturer clarifying whether torque specs apply to dry or lubed threads. In fact, Shimano Australia could not clarify this when I phoned them, and an email sent to Shimano HQ in Japan re this was never answered. 

    Further, most manufacturers don't even clarify whether it is better to use lube (grease) or a hardening compound like loctite. 

    My preference is to use loctite, as it stops bolts from tightening or loosening…though not on threads that need to be serviced more often like spoke threads and nipples. Once the hardened loctite is broken when retensioning a spoke, it is useless. 

    I put loctite on bolts subject to a lot of vibration, weight, twisting…such as bidon cage bolts, pedal to crank threads, rear der hangar, rear der to hangar bolt, front der to clamp to seat tube.

  12. think u guys need to make a vid about accidents. last sunday i hit by a car and can't use my bicylce anymore. think i shld do long fight against insurance co.

  13. I thought fiber grip's usefulness was that it spread the load across all of the little beads which obviously distributes the clamping force, which is better (for carbon).

  14. What's ironic is that I religiously use a torque wrench on car mechanic work but pretty much never on my bikes. Nor have I ever used Loctite on my bikes. And in many thousands of miles I've never had any problems.

  15. Hate to say it but imho many cheap torque wrenches, especially bike specific stuff (and unfortunately that applies to bike specific tools of all kinds of price ranges) are total crap. So crappy infact that you are oftentimes better off to go by feel if you tighten stuff on bycicles on a regular basis. They are so unreliable: hold them at a very slight angle and they won't click, of at much higher forces. Some for whatever reason only really click if you lever back and reapply the pressure. There are all kinds of problems. I would say either go with the very cheap ones, or be prepared to atleast drop 100bucks (which is no guarantee) and even then don't blindly trust your wrench…

  16. Well done GCN and Simon I Am impressed with the information contained in this video,it's spot on.
    I mythology with screws that rely on the fiction between the flange of the bolt and face of the component there in to prevent them back off,is to use a product such as loctite 222 is perfect for all fixings on a cycle.
    The advantages are as follows;
    1) acts as a lubricant so the correct torque is reached with out having to over come fiction.
    2) vibration proofing the fixing
    3) creates a seal between screw and component to spot water ingress a there allowing easier disassembly in the future.
    4) And it looks Pro!

  17. You guys really are running out of things to make videos of! see if you bothered to cover MTB as well you'd have content for the winter when the roadies are on their turbo trainers!

  18. The SI requires a space or a half-high dot between unit symbols to indicate multiplication. I hate seeing 'Nm' on pieces of kit.

  19. Any guides on how to choose a road bike when you are a big bloke, i am 191cm and around 126 kilograms, not even sure a carbon bike would work for me, not to mention they do cost a lot, so pricey to buy if you can't use it 🙂

  20. Which wrench to buy with fixed torque? Can I use the 5 Nm wrench for 5 Nm. I am asking because Si told to use 20 % less torque than what is marked on components? Do I need a 4 Nm torque wrench then?

  21. can someone help me ? my rocker bolts on mtb say 125*200 in/lbs torque… what is that in Nm ? i just cant figure this out haha

  22. so if it's 5nm you got do it at 4nm? isn't it gonna be to lose? and why dose it say the amount of nm on the components!

  23. Why don’t they make the click more prominent? It’s practically unnoticeable that I’m constantly afraid I’ll miss it and over tighten something. Do they make any ones that just free spin after they reach the requested max force? Thanks!!!

  24. hello simon sir, can you please tell me how much range of newton-meter is enough for any expensive bike? because some torque wrench comes with 2-15 nm and some with 2-24 nm . does smaller range torque wrench is good than large range for maintenance? thanks

  25. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyJQONrwgjQ
    William Tools offer you the best customized designed torque wrench for professional level. Contact us today to get one!

  26. Excellent advice as usual guys… The Range Torque ratchet from Feedback Sports is a nice option too… here's my video: https://youtu.be/XHsnM9FoRaw

  27. i just got a new bike and wanted a torque wrench to be sure nothing falls off when using..

    surprised how expensive torque wrenches are.. ridiculous, luckily there is ebay auctions.. i managed to buy a 100 pounds torque wrench for 29 pounds on ebay.

  28. The manual that came with my road bike reads: "DO NOT under-tighten fasteners. Part may slip or fail to function. DO NOT tighten the fasteners too tight. You may damage the thread, which may cause an accident".

  29. Helo, can i use torq 6Nm to my seatpost is written 7Nm in my seatpost's hole? Because i dont have 6Nm torq

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