I ran it out of oil!
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guys I made a huge mistake let me
explain so back here we have my girlfriend’s little XR80 we went through
and rebuilt this thing over the past couple months and so about a month ago I
was finishing me up putting the graphics on getting the seat cover on and I was
kind of in a rush because the next day I was proposing to Haley my girlfriend or
now fiancee so I was kind of rushed getting the thing done I wanted her to
be able to to ride it I was kind of the whole plan we started out riding the dirt
bikes in the morning headed up to the hills go for a hike and then I proposed
everything went perfectly except for the fact that I forgot to put oil in her
bike dumbest mistake ever I’ll give myself a little grace because I had so
much more on my mind obviously with proposing the next day so
how that happened was I took the engine covers off to powder coat them and while
the engine covers were off the bike was like half way apart so I didn’t really
think of putting the oil back in at that point I figured once I finished the bike
I’ll put oil in it done deal but that never really happened because I
had so much more going on my mind was just flooded with everything with the
proposal so that’s how that happened so don’t ever forget the basics guys check
your oil check your fluids before you go and ride and if you make a mistake like
I did just learn from it I didn’t really dwell on it too much it’s actually kind
of funny now that I think about it and we can go ahead and just move on and get
the thing fixed up now what we’re doing today is pulling apart the top end of
the engine do you see the extent to the damage and we only ran it for probably
five to seven minutes with no oil I mean there’s still a little bit of residual
oil in there but I think the majority of the damage is gonna be in the top end so
let’s dig into it right now this should be fun
now to get to the top end I’ll have to pull off the seat and gas tank it’s kind of a bummer to have to tear
into this beautiful little bike but on the flip side I haven’t torn into the
engine yet so at the very least it’s going to get a
new top-end now to get it into the top-end will obviously need to pull off
the valve cover and the carburetor should probably wipe off some this dirt
around the valve cover so that way it doesn’t drop into the engine I don’t see anything too crazy thus far
maybe a little bit of wear on that cam lobe there but you can see there’s still
a little bit of oil in area so I don’t know if it’ll be too bad now where I go
from here is I’ll leave the engine at top dead center so I’ll pull off the
flywheel cover spin the engine over with the flywheel and then I can remove the
timing chain timing gear camshaft and rocker arm assembly so pretty much every
engine is going to have markings on the flywheel to indicate top dead center and
timing so right there we’ve got a T and an F I believe so that T we’re gonna
line up with the marking on the crankcase so right there as top dead
center you can notice it’s not on the compression stroke because the flywheel
spins kind of free we have a little bit of play in the rockers there and you
also notice on the cam gear there’s a marking that faces upward that oh so
that indicates top dead center as well but as you can see the bolts for the cam
gear will need to kind of spin the flag around to get access to those and
actually before I pull off the cam gear I want to loosen up the tension on the
timing chain and I’ll do that by pulling off this bolt along with the holder
plate and then we can just go ahead and pull off the top cam chain adjuster just
pulls right out and that’ll loosen up the cam chain completely then we’re
going to spin the flywheel around to get access to those cam gear bolts and we can pull the cam gear off of the
camshaft yeah the four strokes are definitely a
lot more complicated than a good old-fashioned two-stroke but honestly
take your time and your patient anyone can work on one of these so next up I’ll
be pulling off the camshaft and rocker arm assembly so I’ll be pulling off the
four nuts on top so those will need to come off evenly like half a turn at a
time now with a cam and rockers off we can
really dig into this thing and see if there’s any damage to the head now the
biggest thing I was worried about were these cam journals so the cam rides
directly in the head and these are aluminum in the canvas steel so in a
situation where there’s lack of oil these things are gonna get torn up
pretty good ooh I see a little bit of wear on them
shoot so as you can see there is somewhere in that cam journal a little
bit of wear on that one too but once we get the head off and the cam and rocker
back on here well see if there’s any play in there and if there’s no movement
up and down in the cam we might be able to run it as is now to pull the cylinder
head and cylinder off the engine well actually need to pull the cylinder
studs off you can see there’s not enough room to get them out of there and I’ll
also need to pull the exhaust as well kind of forgot about that now thread
these studs out we’ll be using what I call the double nut technique yep you
heard that right two nuts for one stud so you just do a nut on either side of a
washer and tighten them down against each other and then you can just simply
turn left and loosens up the stud pretty slick deal there all right now the head could come off we
can just drop the timing chain down inside of there go ahead and wiggle this
thing off of here and see if we find any more damage and at this point the cylinder two
slides right off to it actually looks like there’s still a
good amount of oil left in this engine which probably saved it from a lot more
damage take a look at this piston Wow it actually looks pretty good
considering there wasn’t much oil in there and go ahead and pull that off
right now now for the connecting rod it looks like there’s a little bit of wear
inside of there and run a screwdriver through there and see if anything
catches an edge it actually feels pretty smooth maybe a little bit right there
but I think the majority that is mainly just heat markings so I would say that’s
fine and it doesn’t feel like there’s any up and down or side to side play in
those lower connecting bearings so the camera I’ve been using on the channel
over the past couple years is a Canon abd and lately it’s kind of an crapping
out on me so I figured it’s time for an upgrade
so yesterday I snagged the Sony a7 3 with a 24 to 105 lens and I think you
guys will really love this setup so let’s say goodbye to the Canon and
welcome to the Sony well what do you guys think this thing should be a lot
higher quality and some better color as well I think this thing should be a huge
upgrade over the old Canon so what we got next is we’re gonna check out the
cylinder head and cylinder figure out the extent of the damage on those and
then probably clean up a gasket surfaces without the valves over the cylinder and
just kind of get everything ready to go back together let’s take a peek at this
cylinder the bore shouldn’t be too beat up so these have a steel boar they’re
not Nick is so plated or anything it looks like it’s got some oil staining
from overtime maybe a little bit of heat staying as well but I don’t really see
any scrapes or scratches I think all of that should hone out and now for the
cylinder head the biggest worry here is going to be the cam journals let’s take
a look at these cam and rocker a cam definitely has some heat covering
on it and there’s a little bit of where where it rides in the head rockers and
cam tower seem fine though nowhere on the rocker tips nowhere on the journals
so let’s set these in the head and see what it feels like so if the cam has up
and down play there I would probably not want to run this head yeah there’s
really not much play there and it actually doesn’t spin too rough either
take a closer look at these journals here now they look pretty scraped up but
honestly those those scrapes aren’t that deep so I’m thinking I should be able to
get away with running this head and it takes some scotch brite and try to clean
up these journals a little bit see if I can get some of that little burst smooth
down so I went through and clean up the
journals with scotch-brite it seems like it smoothes it out pretty good and
really remove any material it feels like and the cam I went through and did
scotch-brite on that too I know what you guys are thinking Oh scotch right fixes
everything but in reality it does help smooth out some of those burrs and so
let’s see how it feels now yeah that’s a lot lot smoother for sure so now that I
know the head will be fine what I’m gonna do next is pull out the valves
valve springs all that and lap in the valve seats just try to get them to seal
perfectly again so I’ve got a valve spring compressor here this allows you
to compress the valve spring and pop out those valve spring retainers especially
a little bag pinned in there there there’s one and the other while off the valve springs pop out the
valve ooh they’re kind of stuck in there some carving build up those valve seats
they look fine they’re not cupped out at all so I’m gonna clean these up on a
scotch-brite wheel and then lap them into the seats I’ll show you how that’s
done now let’s go ahead and see how these scotch-brite wheels on the buffer
clean up these valves definitely clean them up pretty good Wow
big difference there so what’s nice about these finer wheels is they’ll
remove the carbon but they won’t remove the actual material so the material loss
is pretty minimal and then if you ask some really heavy carbon buildup you
could use the rougher wheel but you got to be really careful with that because
it could remove some of the steel and kind of work things a little bit now
with the valves all cleaned up what I’m gonna do next is lap them into the valve
seats so essentially what we’re doing here is creating a perfect sealing
surface between the valve and the valve seat and we do that by putting this
valve grinding compound on the valve seat or the valve sealing surface and
then spinning it around with a drill and that’ll smooth out the contact between
the two of them and create a perfect seal good I need you to wipe those valve
seats down where there’s no dirt or anything screwing them up as you’re
laughing them and then for the valve itself you’re gonna want to put a piece
of hose over the end of it so that way the drill doesn’t chew up the valve and
put a little bit of this compound on the edge of the valve drop it into the head
and we’re just gonna spin that valve at a low speed kind of go in and out to
reseal that valve seat go ahead and wipe this down you’d be
able to see if its ceiling completely make sure there’s no pits or anything in
that Valve seat yeah that looks nice and consistent all the way around sweet now
it’s on to the intake valve now the next step with ahead is to sand all the
gasket surfaces to make sure they are perfectly flat all right so the setup
i’ve got here is a quarter inch piece of glass glass is known to be perfectly
flat and then i glued a 320 grit chute a sandpaper to it
just use some this 3m spray adhesive obviously make sure there’s nothing
underneath the sandpaper there as far as like dirt or debris and then i’m gonna
spray just some lubricant here on the sandpaper
yeah so that should sand everything just perfectly flat all right those gasket services look
absolutely perfect now can’t see any low spots and voids in them so now what I’m
going to do is soak the head in acetone try to remove all this carbon buildup in
the exhaust port and the combustion chamber and obviously have to pull out
the valve stem seals for that now if you want to get really technical with the
gasket surface you can use a flat edge I know this isn’t like a perfect machinist
tool but you know what it’ll do and if you see any low spots you can measure it
with a feeler gauge to really see if it’s within tolerance or not but looks
pretty good now with the cylinder head soaking we get to work on cylinder pull
off the timing chain adjuster so that way can flats and the top surface and
then also hone out the board got the head and cylinder all cleaned up
use some scotch brite and aluminum cleaner turned out pretty good got most
of that carbon buildup off the head still a little bit left in the exhaust
port would have been nice to use a vapor blaster on these but they’ll do for now
now to hone the cylinder we will be using this ball hone a snag from Rocky
Mountain along with penetrating lubricant of course we’ll need a drill
to speaking to Rocky Mountain I was browsing around on the website today and
notice they had a ton of deals for Cyber Monday
now Rocky Mountains the type of company that doesn’t really do deals or big
sales that often so right now is like your only chance to score some deals I
know I’ll be grabbing a bunch of stuff from there to you so I will link those
cyber monday deals down below in the description so ideally you want the home
to spin around 1500 rpm and you always want to be moving up and down in the
bore you don’t want to stay stationary the material will wear off pretty
quickly to do that and spray down the bore with a little bit of lubricant as
well as the hone and now it’s a matter just diving in and honing it I’m gonna have to change out this
battery I would do maybe like ten seconds of one direction flip the drill
in the other direction and go at it again still looks like there’s a good
amount of that staining within the bore so I’m gonna continue honing until
that’s all gone so this is about as good as we’re gonna get it with a hone
there’s no vertical scrapes or scratches so just that kind of staining or a
little bit of pitting that we’re working with and we’ll still be able to get a
good ring seal but it ain’t gonna be perfect now it’s back to the cylinder
head I’m gonna install the valves and check to make sure the valves are
sealing perfectly I’m gonna dab a little engine oil on top of the valve guide
just so that seal slides on easier then we’re gonna pop the valve back into
place and then install the valve springs and retainer then we’ll get the valve
spring compressor install it on here and then I’ll grab the little retainers with
a set of needle nose pliers and drop them right into a little cavity between
the valve and the valve spring retainer cap no the slowly loosen up the compressor I
like to get them kind of centered in there that looks pretty good right there and
now we’ll do the exhaust side and now we’re going to check to make
sure the valve seal completely with the seats yeah the way I check for that is
the tilt the head up like this and pour water into the port and if you see any
water seeping out on the other side of the valve that means you got a leak
somewhere and you got to fix the valve or the valve seat so it looks like we’ve
got a little bit of water dripping out of the bottom of the intake valve so I’m
gonna pull it out give it another spin on the drill and hopefully that seals it
up a little better now the reason why you want a perfect valve seal is because
if you have a leaky valve it’s gonna be losing compression out the exhaust or
through the intake port and essentially you’re gonna have lower compression than
what you should have all right didn’t have a quick lap job on the intake and
exhaust valves got water inside the port there let’s see if it’s sealing now oh
yeah we’re golden I think we’re ready to go back together now keep in mind guys
I’ll drop links down below to all the tools we use throughout this process
including the valve spring compressor the hone lubricant valve lapping
compound and all this messy tools now the parts I’ll be replacing include the
piston piston rings gaskets wrist pin wrist pin clips dowel pins all that
stuff all this is Om Honda from Rocky Mountain so the first thing I’m gonna do
here is size up the piston make sure it is within tolerance of the cylinder bore
now to measure the piston to cylinder wall clearance you can either use a set
of calipers or feeler gauges I would say the feeler gauges are going to be more
accurate now the clearance on this bike should be
about point 1 millimeter so I’m going to grab a point 0 8 kind of start on the
low side and move up and how we’re gonna check this is by feeding the piston into
the cylinder and putting the feeler gauge right at the bottom of the skirt
that’s the longest edge of it so the point 0 way it barely fits in there so I
would say it’s a pretty good starting point for
now if you’re gonna use digital calipers you simply just go ahead and measure the
skirt of the piston this way is a little less accurate we are at forty seven
point four eight and then measure the inside of the bore so we’re at 47
fifty-four 47:58 so yeah uh that’s about where we came up with on the feeler
gauges as well so definitely within spec now we’re going to measure the ring end
gap I’ve got the top and second rings here I’m gonna place them inside the
cylinder bore actually I’m gonna push that ring a little bit farther down
inside the bore to get a better reading on it the very top of the bore on a u
cylinder is always a little bit tighter than the center of the board just
because of wear now for ring and gap we want about point one millimeter per inch
of bore now this board is one point eight five inch so that would mean we
want about a 0.15 ring end gap go ahead and check that oh yeah that fits perfect
a little bit of friction there I’m gonna bump it up one more size and see where
we’re at let’s go to 0.18 alright let’s go ahead and check the
other ring now yeah that one looks good too now we’re just gonna set up the
rings on the piston okay so what we have here are a couple different style rings
we have the oil rings right here and then the top two rings these are the
ones that build the compression and these are like the oil scrapers they
keep the oil on the piston so first off we’re gonna start with the oil rings
these go on the very bottom groove of the piston the ends of the oil ring
should just butt together like that and then we’ve got the rings that go on
either side of the oil scraper put this one on the bottom side and then this
ring goes on top of the oil scraper so now you’ll notice the end gaps for the
oil rings are lined up so I’m gonna take one of those rings and spin it 180
degrees around and now we are ready for the top two rings so we’re gonna put a
little oil on these rings here some engine oil and so at these rings the
markings on the ring are gonna be facing up and the silver one is a top one black
one is the second ring kind of let’s pry them apart with your fingers beat it
onto the piston sure I have to scratch it up too much and into the groove ago
and then same thing for the top ring once the Rings are in the grooves you
want to make sure they spin around smoothly they’re not catching up on
anything and now for the ring end gap you want the spaced out about 120
degrees from each other take top ring spin it around toward the intake port or
intake side and you don’t want these top compression rings lined up with any of
the gaps on the oil ring it’s like this one’s lined up and missed spin
a little bit more yeah it looks pretty good right there now before the piston
goes on the bike I like to pop in one of the circlips
on the bench so I’ll just get one edge in there and then can I just push it
right end helps to have a little screwdriver a little flat blade will
help that thing pop in to get my glove stuck in there that always happens get
it out of there all right and it goes now as far as positioning of the end gap
on the circlip you can either have it at 6 o’clock or 12 o’clock right now it’s
at 6 o’clock I prefer to go at 12 o’clock
I’m gonna spin this around in the groove all right that looks good right there
all right pistons ready to go on the bike put a little oil on the wrist pin
and then make sure the exhaust side of the piston is facing toward the front of
the bike slip it over the rod and slide that wrist pin right through and it’s
always a nightmare if you drop that second circlip in the bottom end so just
to be safe put a little rag right there also in the
timing chain hole and we can get to work putting the other circle append give it
a shot installing it pretty close said ooh just about dropped it in there good
thing we had that rag there what I was saying is I’m gonna try to install this
thing at pretty close to 12 o’clock so that way I don’t spin it around then we
go didn’t really work you install at 12 o’clock so I’m just gonna spin it around
oh and by the way I tried to replace the timing chain on this bike but on this
particular setup you have to split the cases to replace the timing chain so
decided to go without now we’re ready for gaskets and new dowel pins put a
little bit of grease on this gasket like I always do
I’ve got some new dowel pins always important to replace those makes
everything slide together like butter and now for the gasket I’m gonna have a
little layer of grease on the cylinder base as well and we’ll definitely want
to put some oil on the piston skirts a little bit on the Rings you don’t want
to over coat it but it is important to have some oil on there now if you put
too much oil on your rings they may not seat as well as they should so
definitely be pretty be conservative with the oil they’re they’re a little
bit on the inside of the boards it’s at the bottom almost forgot the timing
chain tensioner how’d it go install that real quick but give those ring and gaps
one last final check make sure they’re about 120 degrees apart and then we
could slide on the cylinder so we’re gonna compress that top ring the best we
can by hand light cylinder on dope gloves are getting stuck in there one
downside of gloves sometimes and then the second ring just kind of works its
way on there we’re gonna just kind of wiggle the cylinder down and if there’s
any like major resistance you definitely want to stop maybe pull the cylinder
back off check things out and you can fish the timing chain up through the
hole feed it through make sure it’s still connected up the crank and then
just work on sliding the cylinder down and then those bow pins will just line
up on their own now to prep for the cylinder head this gasket surface has to
be completely free of any oil or grease so I’m going to use some contact cleaner
here on a towel wipe this thing down and I’m gonna wipe the the head surface down
as well then we’ve got a tiny chain guide that
slides in right there got a few dowel pins for the head and
then of course the head gasket now before I pop the head on I’m gonna
get the engine out top dead center piston all the way up to the top and now
we’re ready for this cylinder head looks like we’re gonna have to go from this
side it’s completely fine if that cam chain is down inside the crankcase I’m
gonna use a magnet to get it back up and I’m just gonna wiggle it on to the
dowels then I’m going to fish that timing chain back up top on goes the cam
chain gear so we’re gonna want this with the circle mark facing up and now we’ve
got the cylinder head studs and if you remember on the cylinder there were two
dowel pins on the flywheel side of the cylinder and that is the side that the
longer studs are gonna go on we’re just going to use the same technique with the
two nuts and washer to tighten these down the Sud should be talked to about 18 16
foot-pounds some around there now we can drop in the cam and rockers but
obviously we’re gonna want to pour some oil in these journals so that way the
cam doesn’t start on startup got a few more dowel pins up here now we’re ready
for the rocker assembly on go the nuts and washers and we can snug them down
and torque them to 14 foot pounds and of course we’re gonna go to crisscross
pattern here we won’t have everything equal as you’re tightening it down once
we get this bolt on the side of the head tightened down we can tidy up the camp
chain and tensioner stuff now we can pop the cam gear under the camshaft
you have to spin the motor around a little bit to get those holes to line up
so there’s two different bolts for the cam gear the black bolt goes on the
right side now the torques back on these suckers is
8 foot pounds now before we go any further with this we’ll need to make
sure the engine is in time if it’s out of time we’ll bend the valve and cause
some serious issues so let’s get the flywheel lined up with a crankcase the
Chi needs to be lined up with the marking on the crankcase and then up
here at the cam gear the o needs to be facing directly vertical you can see the
cam bolts are in line with the gasket surface so we are good to go now we can
pop in the upper tensioner so this kind of swivel bolt thing just Wiggles into
place there we go and then the retaining plate goes on we’re just gonna set this
at doesn’t really matter where right now we’re gonna adjust this tensioner a
little later on snug that up now while we have the valve cover off and the
engine accessible it only makes sense to check the valve clearance the engine
needs to be at top dead center which we are at right now
both intake and exhaust are tight and that’s because of from lapping the
valves the valve pushes up a little bit when you wear away that material to
reseed it so I’ll have to adjust those we’re just gonna crack loose that
retaining nut and spin the adjuster out a little bit so the spec for this engine
is point zero zero two inch or point zero five millimeter for both intake and
exhaust stick the feeler gauge in there tighten down the adjuster so there’s a
little bit of friction right about there snug down the nut get the wrench back on
there grab hold of the adjuster with some needle nose pliers and tighten down
the nut check that clearance once again make sure there’s a little bit of
friction there yeah that feels good so the valve clearance is set timing is
done and it’s on to the valve cover flywheel cover
carburetor exhaust gas tank and seat and of course can’t forget to put oil in it
this time all right here’s what I should’ve done a
few weeks ago that I completely spaced on it now the oil I’ll be using is Shell
Rotella t4 1540 had pretty good luck with this stuff in the past all right I think we’re ready to fire it
up wish me luck so she fired up second kick which I
wasn’t really expecting seems to run pretty good but before I get too carried
away I need to set the cam chain tensioner so how this works is the
bottom one right here you just loosen up the lock nut on there so you do that
while the engines running and it kind of just sets itself and then you fine-tune
the adjustment up here so you lose something bold to turn this adjuster
here or turn this flathead until the cam chain is at its quietest point then you
just tighten up that bolt and you are set so pretty simple stuff they can hear right there that sounds
good I’m gonna go ahead and check the oil
again make sure it’s still topped off and past that just got worried about
breaking the new piston now for break-in I’m just gonna run it on the stand for
about two or three minutes just about medium throttle nothing too crazy shut
it off let it cool down completely fire it up again on the stand run it for
about another two or three minutes but you know a little bit harder on the
throttle this time let it cool down and then tomorrow I’ll go out and ride it
around the driveway and stuff put some load on it kind of get on it hard to
seat those rings in and pass that should be good thank you so much for watching
this video guys I hope you picked up a thing or two I know I definitely did I
learned not to forget to put oil in your bike that’s pretty important kind of
route some things but I had a ton of fun bringing you guys through the process of
a top-end rebuilt on a four-stroke so that’s it
for today also one more thing I will be doing the giveaway drawing for the C or
250 cylinder heads I’ll be doing a live YouTube video within the next couple
days so keep an eye out for that well catch you guys on the flip side and till
then keep a prime

100 thoughts on “I ran it out of oil!

  1. Hey Cameron
    Sorry to hear that!

    But problems are opportunities for improvements, so thank you for yet another great video!

    Question : How would you suggest i restore the bike's axles?

    should i run them in a wire brush wheel before the PrymeMX© cleaning pad or should i only alternate between the two pads instead?
    Thanks for ALL your valuable help bro!
    Congrats on your engagement!
    7 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 thumbs up!

  2. Dude you got soooo lucky could of been alot worse, don't be hard on your self people make mistakes that's how we learn lol

  3. Cameron, Haley is more important than the Honda XR, you could always replace material things, but you can't replace the chemistry, and your relationship with Haley.👫🏼 👍

  4. The good part is now you dont need gloves to open this engine🤣🤣
    Nice work as always, I'm glad you have stopped this engine before it was completely trashed👍👍

  5. I use shell Rotella T in my air cooled 4-strokes too!!!! Great stuff for a cheap price!!! If it’s good enough for a D3 dozer and a transfer truck, it’s good enough for a single cylinder bike lol 👍🏻

  6. SONY is bad ass!!!! Contrast is way more detailed and its focus finally caught up to your style along with the whote balance all make for a crisper image for imus all. Whatever you do don't DROP IT! All SONY products seem to have a curse once dropped to never work righr again.

  7. I've made much bigger mistakes with bikes.. believe me, LOL! (but in the end i've learned much more from my mistakes than my successes. ) Great vid again!

  8. Man finally you are doing serious business here with that Sony!! Very nice shooting with that super camera!! Keep it pryme 👌🏼

  9. it happens ,I think it's so cool of you to share the fact ,,,instead of hiding it ,,says a lot about your character On the plus side ,,Motor's going to be FRESH!,,,,,keep up the great content, stay awesome, and best wishes to you and yours this holiday season

  10. Man, that is so much more complicated than my 33 year old Honda. I have a couple caps for timing marks instead of taking the whole cover off, don't have to split cases for new timing chain (which I had to replace 😂), and the cam gear had a cover over it for easy access. All in all, an amazing video on a beautiful bike, and a lesson to yourself and viewers on what not to forget!

  11. Having been in this situation at Glamis, my daughter ran out of oil on our TRX250 with a 650R engine. The drain plug backed out. The exhaust rocker arm and cam were toast. We added oil, rode it the rest of the weekend and upgraded the top end when we returned home. Honda's rock

  12. Probably should have went ahead and bored the cylinder .020 over. I bet it will be smoking from oil getting past the oil rings.

  13. So what I've learned is you can basically run an xr with no oil and the sucker will still keep going 😅 those things are so bulletproof it's ridiculous

  14. I'm sorry this happened, BUT it's a pleasure to watch you work bro, I enjoyed every second of this video, learned a ton like always 🙏🏻

  15. Not as bad as the dudes working on one of my dads ships who ran a jet turbine without oil. Several million dollar repairs lol

  16. I love the way u work with your dirt bike.I would also love if u made a really in depth video on a engine rebuild.I have a 2019 klx 140 and want to upgrade some parts.

  17. Hey Cam, did you forget a dowel on the left side at 30:55? Just checkin bud, really been enjoying your content lately, keep it up!!

  18. At least it's all clean and ready for the fresh motor rebuild!!!!! Are u a fan of stock oem Honda parts ??? I am!!!!!

  19. I have lapped valves manytimes u can do it how u did it BUT after lapping lapp the valve without lapping compuond and you should see some clear rings around the sealing surface and do it by hand

  20. I had a XR100 for my son that had an annoying rattle. I had no idea that it could have been the timing chain. I’d probably still have the bike if I had know this could have been the cause and it’s that easy to fix. 🤦🏼‍♂️

  21. if the adjusters are the same as my sister's CRF-100 I found the square head on the adjuster is the same size as a drywall screw. I drilled a pilot hole in a piece of wood dowel, screwed in the screw and it makes a handy tool for those.

  22. I've been wanting to do a xr80 vintage race style build for a long time. After seeing pics of xr75s and what was done to them, I wanted to see if I could do the same with an newer 80.

  23. Scotchbrite the tip of the valves before you try and pull them out. Also theretainer groove can catch the stem seal and damage that super fine seal edge. Love the valve compressor. Where can i get one? Also do a figure 8 on the glass and sandpaper.

  24. Dang man I’m sorry that hurts, knowing your a Machanic and do all this yourself and one simple thing we can forget as humans lol, good luck brother, them air cooled bikes ain’t too bad to work on though.

  25. Hey where do u get the red hoses, I’ve got a few different size bikes but my play bikes a 150f crf where can I get all red hoses from?

  26. Hey Cameron,

    A little trick to change the timing chain without taking the engine apart. Break the old chain while its in the case. Break the New chain. Hook them together temporarily. Pull the new chain through using the old one. Once the New chain is in place take the old chain off and hook the new one back together. It is a bit tricky at first but once its done once it is much easier that screwing with splitting the case and tearing into other stuff.

    Loved the video, always super descriptive and well put together!

  27. Congratulations on your proposal bro. Subscriber here from the Philippines. I really appreciate how you do your builds. its amazing same as Adam and Dirt N Iron. such an inspiration for a me since i was modifying and restoring bikes too.

  28. Hi Cameron. After this bike, give me some kind of project to restore an ancient bike like Honda or Yamaha … And by the way, cool videos😀😀😀

  29. I use to drop the oil in my XR600 and tip it straight into my car…bit by bit.
    It was motul oil. My car use to use 16 litres every 6mths.

  30. Did the same exact thing on my pro circuit kx250f years back. Fresh rebuild on top and bottom. 269cc kit. Pro circuit head. Preoccupied and rushing, forgot the oil. Stuck the piston out on the heat cycle and it trashed everything including the cam journals on a $1000 head. I'll never make that mistake again.

  31. You make doing engine rebuild so easy 😂 just blew up my aprillia rs50 and I’ve had to take the hole engine apart even bottom end and I’m only just getting through it 😂😂

  32. Just a word of warning, a small amount of cam lube ( or even engine oil ) on those freshly cleaned up bearing surface's would have been advisable on the first cold start, as until the oil gets pumped around the engine its running dry…………

  33. I remember the time that I rebuilt my 400EX and I did a high compression big bore ported, stage two hot cam, kibble white +1mm valves and springs etc etc… Took it for the test drive after building it for weeks and weeks little by little, and it kept dying and it sounded like it was pre-detonating, so I thought that’s what it was (it would always fire right back up) so got home poured race fuel into it thinking that was the issue just needed higher octane due to the 13:1 Compression….. it still did it and then I remember looking on my bench there was this little metal gear, didn’t think much of it. Something told me to pull the oil cooler line and crank it and make sure oil is pumping… so i did that and no oil came out, then it dawned on me that I forgot to install the oil pump drive gear! Happy ending though because all I had to do was just replace the cylinder and piston. now get this is a totally true story here… So when I originally bought the first piston from Weisco Pistons they so happened to accidentally ship me two! When I originally Contacted them and they said they May have shipped a 2nd one out by accident but there might of been a mistake and they told me to just keep the other piston. In the end it worked out perfect though!

  34. When I drain my bike of coolant, oil, brake fluid, whatever, I leave sticky notes right in the number plate so I don't forget.

  35. I also forgot to mention you should be able to replace the timing chain by removing the flywheel you can access it behind there. That is if the Honda 80 is the same as the 100.

  36. Cameron, even people who are as smart and talented as you make mistakes. With all the stuff going on in your life, it's no wonder.

  37. Not to nit pick, but you should use blue loctite on the cam gear bolts so they dont loosen up. I've seen what happens when they do come loose. It's not pretty!
    Anyway great informative video Cameron. Keep up the good work!

  38. Cameron, your skills are Legendary.
    No drama, just get down and do it.
    Lots of other people (me included) would be ready to bang their heads against a wall.
    Thanks for the lessons, both technical and emotional..A great job!

    Regards from S Africa
    Clive

  39. Sorry hadnt commented in awhile been dealing with alot of depression lately, so apologize, ill be catching up on everything youve got out! Thanks for helping distract my mind for awhile watching this. Stay healty bossman.

  40. When I was 14 my 2010 YZ250f oil plug blew out and I rode for about 20 minutes and 6 miles before knowing I had lost all my oil but I filled it up and put a new plug in and rode the piss out of that bike for 3 more years and just sold it running like a champ this year for 3,000

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