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you, let’s get into it. Hey guys what’s goin’ on? So I am here checkin’ out the Propella, version 3.0 in the 7-speed variant. It’s a pretty cool electric
bike at a slammin’ price point. So let’s go ahead and jump into the bike and talk about the details. All right so if you’re not
familiar with Propella, Propella is an electric bike company that makes more or less
just one electric bike and then they constantly upgrade it. Their primary method of
getting the bikes out is through crowd-funding campaigns, so they’ll make a certain
production run of say, version two, and then they
will sell out through that and then move on to version 2.2 or 2.4. In this case we got 3.0,
so there’s a few upgrades that I’ll get into first,
and then after that we’ll talk about the mechanical
system, the electric system, and then we will hit the road. So the main upgrades for version 3.0 are these two spots right here. So this is a totally new battery casing and battery mount that works right here. So that’s pretty neat. The battery is still a
36-volt, 7 amp hour battery. So it’s a fairly small
battery but of course, you know, we’re comparing this
to the price point its at. But the 36-volt 7 amp hour battery is now in a totally new case. In the older case, it had a push button for seeing this data charge. On this one, it’s almost
like a touch screen. Hopefully it kinda lights up here, its not terribly bright outside today, see if I can get a different angle to get a little bit of shadows on there. So, you just kinda tap it with your finger like a touch screen. Let’s see and then we’ll boot up. And that will show you the
current state of charge with little LED’s comin’ out through there and it’ll turn off so I turn it on again. Whoop, kinda cycles through
so you know it’s pretty cool. It gives it kind of a
space-age sort of touch, it doesn’t have that tactile
sort of button on there. It’s just a one-button press. The other part about it
is the mounting system. So on the older ones
it would actually mount in the bottom first. Then it would latch into kind
of a parallel with the bar, and then it would sorta sink
into position going down, moving down towards the bottom bracket. In this case, it actually
goes the other way. So let’s go ahead and unlock the battery. The battery actually comes
in first from the top. So this is the battery, it’s kind of nice in the form factor side of things. I actually think it’s pretty cool. The older one had this
kinda big horn sorta handle on the top, not my favorite
feature, but some people use it to quickly grab the battery or perhaps clip it to
something, I’m not sure. But in this case, it’s pretty
small, smaller I’m sure. So the battery actually
goes in first on the top, to kinda get into a nice little spot, and then it sinks down into the mount, and then you turn the
key to lock in position, and then you’re in business. So that’s how the battery mounts on here, the battery capacity is the same. From what I understand, the
controller is the same as well, it’s a 14-amp controller. I wouldn’t be surprised if they kinda tweaked it a little bit
because it feels kinda peppy, in my opinion, for a 250-watt
motor and a 14-amp controller, so it’s doin’ pretty good. So that battery is one of the main changes to the version 3.0. Another main change is actually the fork. So up on the fork here, the
older one was fairly narrow and it was narrow the whole way. On this one they’ve
actually redone the fork as well as the head set,
the head tube up here. So this fork has, starts out wide, and then it kinda goes
smaller towards the bottom where you get to the drop out area. With the headset, they’ve
actually redone that as well. So this one now has
sealed cartridge bearings, it’s actually tapered, it
starts out about an inch on the top and gets towards,
let’s say an inch and a half on the bottom and they have
this nice little cone over here to kinda keep things cinched down so, that’s actually a pretty
cool upgrade to it. One last thing about the fork here, is that they actually have
a little spot right here to mount a front rack. So some of the front
racks or front fenders actually have a spot here to mount, and then they come up here and they mount to perhaps the headset,
or the stem up there. So in this case, this bike actually has, it comes with these little spots
right here from the get go. And that’s a pretty cool thing because you can mount something
on here for, you know, light if you wanted to, you
can get a light on there to just kinda point forward,
cause the bike doesn’t have lights to come with it. But yeah, that’s a pretty cool thing. It also has this little spot right here, that theoretically could mount a fender, but the clearance is pretty low and I was actually reading the
Propella website this morning and they said that in
the upcoming 3.2 version, past the one that I’m reviewing right now, they’re actually going to
increase the clearance here so that you can get a fender
in the front there so. Yeah this is a good example of some of the smaller details
that Propella as a company is paying attention to. Of course they started with version 1.0, and they’ve made a lot
of changes since then, but the price point remains the same. This is the 7-speed system,
so this one comes in at $1299. If you wanted to get the
single speed version, then that drops the price
down a little bit lower. So those are some of the main upgrades. One last thing that I did
notice when doing the review and going over it with a
measuring tape and everything is that the handlebars are
about 1/2 an inch shorter from side to side. And that’s something that I compared with the previous electric bike review before jumping into measuring this bike. So, it’s just little itty
bitty things like that that make the bike a tiny
bit better every time. So that’s pretty cool. So this bike starts off
with some pretty tall tires. These are a 700C tire that you have here, these are a 700 by 32, so
there a little bit wide when it comes to the road tires, if you wanna call them that. They have the 32 for the width, and that’s a tiny bit of
width, that’s a tiny bit. And it makes a big difference
because if you have something that’s like a 700 by
28, that shrinks it down a little bit more and then of course that lower second number gets
tinier and tinier and tinier. And if you’re on a road bike, you know, you definitely want
something for efficiency sake as thin as a pizza
cutter if you can get it. But in this case it has a
little bit of width to it and I actually do like these size of tires myself personally. I ride a conventional bike at
home that has this same size. Now one thing I am a
little jealous of is that this bike does have the
reflective sidewalls on the tire. (laughs) My personal bike doesn’t. That’s pretty cool because a
lot of accidents that happen on for bicycles when they
come into contact with cars, is from the side. And there’s a thousand bikes out there that have headlights
and taillights on ’em, which are great and
necessary and, you know, legal, or a legal necessity
in a lot of places. But side reflection is
another important point to get you seen on the road. So I definitely like that they
have the reflectors on here. This is kind of like an added feature that I wouldn’t expect for
a bike at this price point, so I like that a lot. These rims are an
anodized rim and of course they have this really
tall portion to them. So these are actually
what’s called deep section, where the rim doesn’t, you
know, come up to just there, you know, maybe half an inch or so. It actually comes in what appears to be about two inches or so. And then, that’s when
the spokes screw starts and the spoke of course. So that’s pretty neat because
it does make the spokes a little bit smaller in length. They don’t have to be quite as long. Definitely builds out
the aesthetic as well, so that’s kind of a nice feature. The spokes of course coming into the 100-millimeter hub spacing up front, with a 9-millimeter quick release. We do have a quick release, that’s a nice feature as well. Again, for the price
it’s kinda surprising. Kind of standard equipment for the 100-millimeter hub spacing up front. This comes into the Shimano
mechanical disc brakes. So these are Shimano
TX on the Tourney line. So on Shimano they have
kind of a hierarchy of their component levels. And Tourney, oh the Tourney
set is at the bottom. There’s a Tourney TX, I
think there’s a Tourney LT, I forget the initials but,
there’s like Tourney LT, Tourney, and Tourney TX,
or maybe it’s backwards, but I know that this is on the lower end of the Shimano lineup. But, Shimano still makes
some pretty good stuff and the most important part is that they’re not that tough to fix. So the cables do get
stretched out after a while, after some steady use, and you’ll have to tighten back up again. Or you could go into any
bike shop and have that done and these are of course
since they’re Shimano, they’re super easy for
any bike shop to work on. So that’s a nice thing is
that they stuck with albeit, not terribly expensive,
they still stuck with the brand name on here for
the mechanical disk brake. That’s going into a 160-millimeter
rotor, up in the front. That’s that silver disc right in here. And of course that’s also
mirrored by the set in the back, which is the same set for the breaks. And, on the back end, you
have a very similar set. For the spokes as well, but that’s also a tiny, tiny bit shorter
because on the front, they go into a front hub. In this case, they actually
go into a hub motor, so this is a Bafang hub motor
that’s set for 250-watts. We’ll go over that in
the mechanical section, or sorry the electrical section, right now we’re trying
to focus on mechanical. So, oh one last thing I should mention about the tire is that the tire and wheel and tube assembly, it does
have a really long stem for the valve. So this valve stem is pretty long because the tube was
still up here, you know, comprising the space in
between the tread of the tire. But that stem has to be pretty darn long, so if you’re gonna be
looking for tubes online, that would be kinda, they
can be pretty intimidating because there’s a lot
of sizes to consider. There’s the diameter, there’s the width, there’s also the stem, and
if you wanted to get like a different thickness for flat protection or something like that. So, you walk into a bike
shop and you tell ’em what kind of bike you
have, they could probably look up a picture and from
a picture they could say, oh yeah, I know exactly what that is so. But yeah, make sure you get a longer stem if you’re out there shopping on your own. So, on the gearing side
of things, on the front, you do have a 46-tooth chain ring. And I actually counted that by hand because in the previous review,
it was a 44 tooth chain ring and then they had changed it to a 46. So that’s what you have
on the front chain ring. So that gives you a pretty good range for keeping resistance up on the pedals. That goes into the chain and this chain is actually covered in what appears to be some kind of white coating. I don’t believe it’s a zinc coating, I think it’s only just for color, cause it’s kind of flaking off. You can see it’s being eaten up a tiny bit by the gears in here. So I think that they did that perhaps to keep the aesthetic looking pretty good, just something to kind of
give it a little bit of color to match some of the
lettering that they have on the battery and on
the down tube as well. But, nonetheless, it comes
into the gearing back here, so this is a 14 to 28-tooth
cassette in the back from Shimano. So again, they kept the name brand for Shimano having that
nice cassette back here. But it is, you know, a
fairly narrow gear range. And this is of course a 7-speed set, if you wanted to opt for the single speed, then that would have of course, that would narrow your
gear range significantly to just one gear in the back. This has a Shimano Altus for
the derailleur back here. I actually like the Altus,
it’s not terribly high, there is another step down
on the Shimano hierarchy. But the Shimano Altus for me
at least works perfectly well, and I like it a lot. In this case I actually
did take the motor cable off of the bike because
I took the back wheel off of the bike a little bit
earlier so that’s kinda here. Normally it’s being pinned up like so. So don’t let that bug you, that’s something that
I actually did myself. The seat is fairly narrow, so it doesn’t have a whole lot of height, it doesn’t have whole lot of width, it’s kind of a base model seat, but it does fit the nice coloring. It does have the blue on the
back and on the sides so, it definitely looks good. As far as comfort, I wouldn’t
rank it terribly high, but you do get the added benefit of having a universal
rail mount right here, so you could get more or
less any seat on there if you wanted to. The diameter of the seat
post is actually 27.2, so if you wanted to get
a suspension seat post, like a connect seat post or thudbuster, that would actually fit in here just fine. So that’s something you can
do to kinda make the bike a little bit more approachable
on the comfort side of things, because truth be told, I mean this bike is not
terribly comfortable and you know, that’s
something that you kind of come to expect when you see a bike of this kind of proportions. One last thing to talk about
in the center of the bike is the cranks and the pedals. These pedals are pretty cool
for the price point, again, I was kind of expecting to see something a little cheaper like a
plastic mount or something. These ones actually have aluminum alloy. These are some Neco pedals that kinda have the cage on them so I like these a lot. They’re fairly simple
in the sense that they don’t take up a ton of
space on the profile and they spin pretty good. And also they have a good look to them because you have a nice,
polished (laughs) chrome on the inside. I know that’s kind of a small detail but, to me it sorta stands out. The cranks on this one
are some Lasco cranks, 170 millimeters for length,
which is kind of standard issue. So what the cabling does for
the mechanical side route on the outside of the bike frame. So right here you have some of the cabling that goes through, so that’s really easy if you wanna work on it, but
it does kinda make the bike, you know, kinda stand out a little bit if you’re comparing it to
something with internal routing. The electric side of
things actually doesn’t, so the electric cables
actually do kinda come in here and then they pop out on the other side to get to the battery. It would get to the battery
and controller at least. On the motor side, they’d
have to go external and there’s really no way
around that that I know of. So one last thing while we’re down here, is the bottle cage bosses,
(laughs) so they got ’em. Here at EBR, we love bottom-case bosses so it’s nice if they tucked them in there. It’s a really nice thing, It’s not as easy to get to cause you gotta get your
arm all the way under here. So, if you wanted to stop, you know, like we are now and jump out
and get a drink of water, then this would be just a fine place, I mean albeit it would
get dirty a little bit, not like it matters, it’s
just the outside of the bottle but you could also put
something else down here if you wanted to, so that’s
a really neat addition. There is some space up here,
but it’s anyone’s guess as to whether you can
get the bottle on here because bottles come in a
lot of different heights, especially if you had
something tall like a, you know a pump or something that probably wouldn’t fit in this spacing so putting it down here is actually nice cause you have more or less, you know, effectively limitless space to work with for a bottle cause you’re
not gonna find much other than maybe like
a two liter (laughs). That would not fit in there. I don’t know if they make
two liter bottle cage bosses, but I’m sure it’s been done somewhere. And if not, hey, I’d
take one, I’d rock that, I think it’d be awesome. So coming up to the front of the bike on the mechanical side, you
have a 100 millimeter length for the stem up here. That kind of gives it a tiny bit of rise as well as the handlebars that are a tiny bit shorter than the previous ones. So these ones are about
640 millimeters wide, if I remember right
off the top of my head. Go to electricbikereview.com
where you can see the full review for this,
for this exact bike, including all the
measurement specifications that I did myself. One of them being to
weight, and remind me, we’ll get to that right before
we do the electric part. So, this is the set of
shifters for the cassette that I told you in the back. It’s a fairly standard
set for the lower end of the Shimano lienup,
but they work just fine. And like I said, I use this
exact set on my personal bike, it’s lasted me for a long
time so I got no complaints. These are the brake levers. The brake levers are
fairly simple for this and they do have a motor cutoff signal, so that’s actually a nice
feature to have for safety, in which it has this
little magnet in here, and then when you press on the brakes, that will engage it so
that it will send a signal to the motor to cutoff power,
no longer allowing the motor to power so long as your
hands are on the brakes. So that’s a pretty cool
thing to kinda prevent you from any kind of mishap on
the motor side of things. One last thing to talk about while we’re up on the front
of the bike is the grips. So the grips do have this
same anodized coating that kinda matches the blue on the wheels, and to me this one
looks a tiny bit lighter but it’s pretty cool. I like that look because it
definitely rounds out the bike. You have some color on
the battery of course, on the wheels, on the seat,
if you wanna keep that seat, also on these grips. So it definitely keeps it looking good. If you start replacing things, it’s gonna, it might tamper with the
look, but in this case, they look nice, they lock
on their nice and tight. I do like the locking feature
with these little pins, but on the comfort side,
they don’t do a whole lot, you know, they don’t do
a whole lot of comfort. They’re fairly flat so you
can get a good grip on them, they’re very intuitive (laughs). I can definitely say that,
but they don’t provide a whole lot of comfort if you’re gonna be riding the bike for a longer distance. So if you wanted to use
this for longer commuting, I’ll just throw out a number
and say 10 miles at a time, which I believe the battery could do that, I think the battery could
deliver you 10 miles at a time and then you’d charge it up again. But, it would not feel
terribly comfortable, you know, if you don’t have cycling
experience already and have some tolerance built up for your bones on your backside. But anyways, for shorter trips, it’s fine. You know, I don’t think that riding a bike with some stiff grips, some stiff seats is really that big of a thing if you’re going on shorter rides and you’re always having a ton of fun on an electric bike
anyway, so it’s kinda hard because the time passes
when you’re having fun. So this is the same display
that we had in the last bike, in which the bicycle is already engaged with the battery on there. The key is not necessary for ignition, it’s just necessary for locking
the battery onto the bike. So let’s go ahead and
press the power button. We’ll turn on the display and
it shows us a couple things, a clock up there that I haven’t quite set, also the battery level, your
assist, your miles per hour, and on the lower right you
have the variable display. If you press the power button there, or the button we used for power which has an M on it for mode, that will change the variable
display from an odometer to a trip set, and then back again. It just goes between those two, so it has those two metrics and that’s it. If you press and hold the down button, that will start the walk assist. I tilted up the bike right now, so it’s not gonna go anywhere, but it engages the motor just a tiny bit if you wanna walk along side the bike. That is principally used
in European countries where they have walkways in which you’re not permitted to mount the bicycle. I don’t know if those
are terribly common here in the United States, but
nonetheless it’s a nice feature if you wanted to walk alongside
the bike up a heavy hill or, you know, something along those lines. The bike doesn’t have
a throttle otherwise, so if you wanted to, you could do a very, very low-speed
throttle (laughs) that way. If you press and hold the plus button, that will actually show
you an average speed that you’ve done on this ride. If you press and hold
the plus button again, it will go to a maximum speed
that we’ve done on the ride, and then back to the
regular miles per hour that you’re currently going at that rate. Pressing and holding the
plus and minus button will enter you into some of the settings, and you can change the clock,
up or down to change the time, press the mode button to cycle
into a new metric to change, in this case we’re
looking at the backlight, so the backlight can actually
go down to level one, or you can change it up to level three. We’ll go ahead and keep it bright. And then the last one is to
change from miles per hour to kilometers, and then
back to the clock again. You press and hold the
plus and minus and then, or no press and hold the M button for mode and then that’ll get you
back to the main menu. So it’s a fairly simple
display, not a whole lot to it and honestly I kinda like it that way, it seems some what durable,
albeit it’s on a plastic mount. And you can kind of move
it around a tiny bit, not terribly flexible, but in my opinion, I really like simple displays. In this case it tells
me what I want to know, and that’s fine, that’s fine by me. If you want it to count
calories or count distance, things like that, then
you might wanna, you know, search around for a larger display, but that’s, you know,
neither here nor there. So electrically, we did
kinda talk about the battery when we talked about some of the changes but, suffice it to say this is a 36-volt, 7-amp hour battery, so it’s
not a ton of capacity there, but you can actually get
a replacement battery from Propella for, in my
opinion, a fairly good price. $250 bucks will get you a
replacement battery for the bike, which is pretty good. I think that’s a fair price for getting it because batteries comprise a large part of the total cost of the bike, more expensive than any
other single component, so in that case it’s pretty good. It’s fairly lightweight so
you could carry another one in your bag and not feel it as much as the big capacity batteries, so there are some, you know,
balances here or there. With this fair battery right here, I think it’s a good choice. So, the controller of course, is built into the bottom right here, which is a good thing to
have the controller built in close to the battery,
it’s actually a nice thing on the electric side of things. The pedal assist is actually a cadence-based pedal assist system, so that means that the
motor is told what to do based on the rotations of the cranks here. Of course we’re going backwards so it’s not gonna go anywhere (laughs), maybe I should turn this
off just to be safe. All right, turn that guy off, all right. So when you pedal the bike forwards, it counts how many rotations you’re doing and then it will give you assistance based on the metric and
that’s what pedal assist is when it’s a cadence-based system. And in this case, you
have a sealed sensor. And this is one of the
upgrades that they’ve done for version three is that
in the previous version that we did on EBR had an external system where you see a disc about
yay big with magnets on it that you could totally count
and see it passing through. In this case it’s sealed
into the bottom bracket, which has been redone by Propella, so that’s a pretty cool thing. You’re not gonna see
this gunked up too much and have it affect any of the ride, so it also keeps things nice and slim. So that’s a nice upgrade that they’ve done is with the sealed sensor
rather than external. So that’s the pedal assist
system, coming into the motor, this is a Bafang 250-watt motor. Not a whole lot to talk about
on the motor side of things, but it is from a company
that has made amazing strides in the industry in the last few years. At one point a few years
ago, they were known, in the United States at
least they were known, for just conversion systems,
and they’ve since gone into the OEM market with a vengeance. So you see (laughs) the Bafang
motor is all over the place on the OEM side of things,
meaning that it’s a motor that is specked with a
bicycle from the get go. And so this bicycle
was definitely designed with that system in mind. So that’s electric system
from front to back, that is the mechanical system as well, with the upgrades at the very beginning, so let’s go ahead and jump on the bike and go down the road, my favorite part. Okay, so here we go down the road on the Propella version 3.0. One thing that I forgot to mention when we were going over the specifications is that they’re already onto version 3.2, (laughs) which has had a couple
of smaller upgrades to it, not as much of the changes
that we’ve already covered with version 3.0, compared
to the previous 3.2, or sorry, 2.2, so 3.2 is upcoming
with some minor upgrades. This one is 3.0, so expect everything that you’ve seen me list
with a tiny bit more for the next production run
that they’ve got goin’ on. But, the bike performs as I would expect. It’s a very simple system,
it reminds me a lot of the Fixie style,
kind of electric bikes, but it’s pretty nimble, I’ve gotta say. It’s fairly lightweight. I weighed this bicycle coming
in at about 38.2 pounds. Previously the bike was
weighing in at 37 pounds when it was last reviewed on EBR. On the website for Propella, they say that the weight is 34 pounds. I believe that they’re weighing
it without the battery pack, and in my case I weighed
it with the battery pack, so I think that’s the
reason for the discrepancy between the two. It’s not uncommon for
some companies to weigh it with or without the
battery pack, you know, try to keep the numbers down, tryin’ to get the bike
out there, you know, make it look great and you know, makes sense, that’s what they do. So as far as how the bike rides, the pedal assist is pretty predictable. I mean it is a cadence-based system so if we go ahead and
leave it in a high gear, like super high, let’s go
ahead and hit those brakes, okay, so if we leave it in a
really high mechanical gear, level seven, and then we start goin’, okay that’s not so bad. That’s about like, oh,
it’s not half a rotation, it’s not 180 degrees before it picks up, it’s a little between
a quarter and a half, so maybe from the one o’clock to the, I don’t know, like four
o’clock position or so. And this is not a scientific test at all, this is me just kinda goofin’
around on the bike (laughs), but right now I have it set
for pedal assist level one, let’s go ahead and
crank it to five and see if we can get it to pick up. Okay so same thing, it
was about a little before the six o’clock position,
so not quite 180 degrees when I was doing it just there, but again, that’s not something you’re
gonna be doing terribly often, but it picks up a lot quicker. I’ve seen bikes that have
to do a full rotation, possibly one and a half,
before they pick up. So that little sealed
sensor for the pedal assist is doin’ pretty good, it’s
reading pretty quickly and that’s kind of one of the drawbacks to a cadence-system is
that they don’t read as fast as torque, but
they are really easy on the other side of things. When you get the bike movin’, you know, you get a little bit of momentum, and then after you get a little momentum, you kinda scale back. So you can scale it back
into say one mechanical gear, and then crank up the pedal assist, and then all you gotta do
is just rotate the pedals as a formality and then
it will kinda kick in and this bike is no exception. So that’s a pretty cool
feature if you have some knee issues, you
know, maybe you’ve had some surgery recently
and you’re trying to do some rehabilitation and all you gotta do is a slight amount of
pressure, and whoop, (laughs) I forgot, you do a
slight amount of pressure and that’s all you need
to get things going on your rehabilitation side. Then yeah, a cadence-based
system’s actually pretty cool. So let’s go ahead and
pedal up here a little bit. I gotta say I like these brakes. With rim brakes, which is a
common choice for cheaper bikes, with rim brakes, they don’t
do very well in the rain, and right now it’s raining on us so I definitely like these disc brakes, they work pretty good. On the mechanical side of things, or like mechanical versus hydraulic, they don’t bite nearly
as much and of course, the mechanical ones need
a little more babysitting, but it’s pretty good, I like
’em, I’m not gonna complain. I like these brakes, I’ll
just go ahead and say it right outright, I like
the brakes (laughs). So, let me go ahead and
switch the camera position, then we’ll kinda wrap things up, I don’t want you to stay with me too much getting water logged, so yeah let’s do it. All right guys, I’ve got
it cranked all the way up to level five pedal assist,
and I got you pointed down at the bottom bracket area,
with the pedals, the batteries, I think you can see a little
bit of the motor as well. So let’s go ahead and take it for a spin. (laughs) Okay, that was fun, we had a nice little runway
there to go up on speed. So yeah, it was pretty fun,
it picks up pretty quick and that’s something I
kinda mentioned prior that the pedal assist
with that sealed sensor, I think it reads a little bit faster than the 12-magnet from the last one, wouldn’t surprise me at all so fun stuff. All right guys, thanks for
checking out the Propella version 3.0 in the
7-speed variant with me. It’s been a lot of fun to ride it around. It’s really cool to see bikes that are put at a better price point, because it really gets
electric bikes out there. There are some compromises if you know what you’re getting into,
but I think it’ll be a really good choice for you. So if you wanna check out
the full written review for this bicycle, along
with all the measurements, all the specifications and weight, go to electrikebikereview.com. While you’re there you can compare it with all sorts of other electric bikes that are out there in the great wide open that we’ve done before. So thanks for watching guys, ride safe. (birds tweeting)

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