Scarpa Vapor Lace 2020 climbing shoes
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hey my name is Nathan
welcome to the Scarpa booth I thought I might show you one of our new vapor
models this is a new vapor lace so we really concentrated on sharp line shoes
and stiff shoes if we wanted to really make sure that we weren’t
neglecting this type of climbing shoe because we still think that these
stiffer shoes have a really good place in climbing and there’s limitations to
the soft shoes so for the vapor we really wanted to make a good alternative
or supplementary shoe to someone that had a vapor V one of our most popular
shoes so the vapor lace has a few things that are a little bit different one of
the ones that you probably see is this toe cap on the top here this is a pretty
interesting piece of technology here it’s actually like dual density so
normally when we match a softer rubber with a harder rubber we normally have a
seam or an overlap here where the toe cap joins into the toe rand and you can
see here there’s no seam and it joins straight together so that’s what we call
D2 technology so dual density rubber and this rubber at the top here is very very
soft very elasticated rubber wraps over the knuckles really well really good for
comfort really high friction but it doesn’t contain the toes as well for
like more precise climbing where as you can see the black rubber is stiffer
rubber it wraps around the bottom of the foot and contains the toes to get really
precise edging and normally we’ve combined these two rubbers with an
overlapping seen but the d2 when the rubbers in a liquid form comes together
on the sheet and then you can have one sheet of continuous rubber that changes
density on either side so it’s just really getting a slightly better fit
because the finish is flat on the other side there and getting the best out of
both those rubbers because they both have a good content for them on either
side so that’s the toe patch you can see on the upper here and then the last we
should probably talk about a little bit it’s exactly the same in the front 3/4
of the shoe is the vapor V but it’s a little bit more shallower and the heel
in the back and that’s because this has one of the new PAF heel systems on the
back here so you can see it’s a lot wider than normal and that’s these two
elastic bands connecting on the side here but not going the
full length at the back behind the heel so that gives a bit bigger pressure zone
at the back here and allows the toe to be a little bit more precise because we
push the back of the foot with a bigger surface and it means that the front of
the shoe has a bigger surface with a major pressure point so that allows it
not only to be more comfortable at the back of the shoe but a little bit more
precise in the front of the shoe so that’s definitely a point of difference
from the vapor V the other thing is is the upper so the upper still reflects
the same as the classic vapor shoe so seamless offset toe box here this is one
of the really rare shoes that’s fairly flat fairly straight but it still has a
fully paneled upper so we kept that with the vapor but we made it fully synthetic
so these panels normally are leather and on the vapor lace it’s microfiber so the
shoe is vegan friendly it also has these TPU straps that you see on the
side here in replacement for the stitching so normally we have supportive
stitching that you would see through here to stop stretch and these TPU
straps are welded on the upper and that means that you have a smooth surface on
the inside here against the skin but you still retain some kind of stretch
control on the upper so the upper’s moderately different but more or less
the same except no leather components all synthetic the other thing that’s
probably really interesting is the midsole so we really wanted to make this
shoe much stiffer than the vapor V and we wanted it to be more precise and
I guess giving more supports for continuous small hold use so we used the
same plastic because we didn’t want to make the plastic thicker you lose a lot
of sensitivity then but we use the same plastic thickness and it wraps up in the
heel the same way but it curves up and over the side of the shoe and that gives
this plastic just a little bit more support by curving it and makes it
stiffer in the shoe and it’s a trick that we used on the boostic to make it
more precise but not increase the thickness and we use the same trick on
the new vapor lace so it gives a shoe quite a bit of rigidity and then we also
wanted to make the most of the sole unit so it’s a full-length sole unit in XS
edge but it also wraps up and in the arch area here just for a little bit
more support as well so a very supportive shoe the the stiffer plastic
on the midsole allows you to continuously these smaller footholds
without so much use on your large foot muscles so you obviously lose a bit of
sensitivity and you lose a bit of flex but you certainly gained a lot more
precision at the top of the route because you’re not relying on the muscles of the
foot to hold you so that’s generally in multi pitching or really foot fatigue in
climbing which could be anything where you’re continually using small footholds
these shoes are definitely advantageous over something that’s softer so I think
these are aiming for like 130 140 euros same price as the vapor V and they’re
scheduled to come on shelf in march 2020 we know that we’ve developed in the last
years really soft shoes and we’ve definitely pushed that and we know that
there was a big hole for that and modern climbing indoor modern climbing
especially but also steep outdoor climbing soft shoes are advantageous but
there’s still lots of people out there that like really hard face climbing
certainly like Heinz and me are one of those people we really enjoy hard-faced
climbing and a stiff shoe outperforms a soft shoe all the time so that’s the
PAF heal you can see it’s it’s really thin and that’s that’s one of the things
that increases the fit as soon as you have thick clunky pieces of rubber
you’re restricting the fit and as soon as you have ultra thin elasticated
rubber you’re improving the fit there’s a bit of a compromise in either way if
you make it like glad wrap it fits awesome but it wears out straight away
so one millimeter rubber we think is really good because we don’t really need
durability that much in the heel so it wraps up over the side here you can see
where the holes are that denotes the tension on either side so these are high
tension PAF heels with three holes same as the booster the veloce is two holes
so medium and in the origin and the jungle is one hole so that’s really how
hard they’re pulling this elasticated rubber this is not elasticated rubber
Vibram is what we call dead rubber but it spreads the load
really well and you can see the width on the outside here how much wider it is
than normal so that gets wrapped onto the upper on the other side there and
then the full-length sole comes over the top of it so it definitely does give a
better fit but maybe not so aggressive so I wouldn’t say that it’s the best
heal for all things I think for aggressive heal hooking probably the
slingshot heal is better but I think if you’re looking at getting more out of
your foot work at the toe and you want a more comfortable fit on the back than
the PAF heal systems better so we just want a variety all the way through
different people like different things for all kinds of different reasons so we
really work hard on making sure we’ve got different volumes of heals different
pressures on the heals different densities of rubber different plastics
and that means that we’ve got a big variety of not only toes in shoes but
also heals we really wanted it to be complementary to the vapor so we didn’t
want people to think oh it’s a lace-up version of the vapor V because it’s
definitely not it’s for a different style of climbing and each one of these
has a different advantage over the other so this one’s definitely I would say
softer it’s a more versatile climbing shoe probably better suited for steeper
routes indoor climbing whereas this is definitely better suited for continuous
small foot hold use it’s a more comfortable shoe for multi-pitch or
longer wearing times and it’s definitely a lot stiffer so you can see the first
thing that’s a really indicator is one’s XS grip 2 and one’s the XS edge
so the rubber is stiffer and then the midsole is full-length instead of
partial you can see this sole actually wraps up and over the arch whereas here
that’s an elasticated rubber so less flexibility and then obviously the
midsole of this one is a lot stiffer than what it is on this one mainly
because of this curve that you can see on the outside that wraps up and around
the foot so that’s basically where this is coming up on the outside of the shoe
here and you can almost see the outline of the curve coming up and over here and
it’s wrapping up the outside of that foot and that really does two things it
stiffens up the whole plastic just by putting a curve in it
but it also means that you’re cradling the foot and as the foot comes
under a lot of pressure it squashes out and this plastic further contains the
foot so it’s not so much about fatigue but maintaining precision even under
high pressure so it’s got advantages as in it’s better under high pressure the
disadvantages is obviously it’s got less flex so we really wanted this to be a
complimentary shoe to people that already enjoy the vapor V the toe box
is the same volume the mid shoe is the same volume the heel’s a little bit more
sculptured on this so not quite as deep and then obviously the pressure point is
a little bit different so really good for aggressive heel hooking really good
for continuous face climbing I take exactly the same size in both so you can
see even here in these ones here like you can see it looks actually
slightly bigger but that’s more or less just from the full sole that hasn’t got
the same curvature that this one has so exactly the same size and you can
expect the fit to feel really different especially for this dual tension rubber
that’s m50 at the top so that’s the same toe patch that’s on the top of a Drago
whereas this rubbers are much more stiffer rubber on the top here so it’s a
it’s a different fit definitely but volume is exactly the same and length is exactly the same

5 thoughts on “Scarpa Vapor Lace 2020 climbing shoes

  1. Super information dense video, love it. Interesting to see you've swapped out the vapor velcro xs edge for xs grip. Is the idea to push these two models apart a bit more than in the past?

  2. Oooh, always interested in more Scarpa coverage. Did you manage to chat to Nathan about the update to the men's Vapor Lace, too? I saw a few pictures of it floating around, but no real concrete info.

  3. That dual density toe rubber sounds fantastic! Just a couple less hot spots on my toes. Huge shot out to Nathan for going so in depth on this!

  4. Are they narrower? Manufacturers always make laces narrow, as if people that climb outdoors have narrower feet than indoor boulderers…

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