Ultimate Guide To Making Bolts Look New Again!
100 Comments


welcome back to another video guys so
today we’ve got something new to try out but before I get into that I figured I’d
show you the new shop set up I just switched a few things around out here so
the first thing you guys will notice is the shelf that was over here I moved to
this side of the shop didn’t really need to be in this corner and the biggest
reason why I switched things around was to get this workbench which used to be
in that corner kind of in the middle of the shop here just easier to work with
it right here and I also move the vise to the end of the workbench obviously
makes more sense with it being that way and now I’ve got all this space to work
my bikes pretty happy with this setup so far so I’ve got this little plastic
shelf with all my chemicals and oils obviously a toolbox and then over here
is the 125 got a cold bikes over here in the corner girlfriend’s ex ret we’ll be
working on that thing got the pit bike klx 110 and then the summer toy Yamaha
super jet and all this shelving is for the merchandise on the website so we’ve
got dirt bike parts hats t-shirts scotch-brite pads all that kind of stuff
so what we’re working with today is over here in this box so let’s open it up and
check it out what we have here is a plating kit from
Caswell I partnered up with them and what we’re gonna be doing is replating
some of the hardware on the CR 250 now I’ve never done this before I have no
clue what some of the stuff is but we’re gonna be learning how to do this
together I’m gonna go through open it all up get
it figured out do my research and we’ll get started so the reason why I opted
replate instead of replace some of the hardware on this bike is because some
larger bolts like the axles swingarm bolt the linkage bolts down here motor
mount bolts all that stuff isn’t made anymore or it’s really expensive to go
by and I just love figuring out how to do things myself I definitely take a lot
more pride in my projects when they’re done here at the shop and then down the
road I’ve got this plating kit so I can restore as many bolts as I want so I’m
gonna read through this here manual and figure out what electroplating is all
about alright so I just finished up with some research and reading and I think I
understand the concept of plating pretty good now so let’s talk about what
plating is and why it needs to be done so plating is basically transferring
metal particles from a plate called the anode over to the part which is called
the cathode and the plating protects the part from rust and corrosion and that’s
why it needs to be done so how we do this is by positively charging the plate
and negatively charging the part and in turn that will attract the particles
from the plate over to the part and you’ll end up with a finish similar to
this this is either a zinc plated or nickel
plated now I’m gonna discuss how to set up the tanks and the power supply so it
looks like we’ve got quite a bit going on here we’ve got a crock pot of all
things but trust me once I break it all down it’s gonna be pretty simple so if
you’d like to skip through the setup process and go straight to plating go to
the time stamp shown on the screen right now okay first things first we’re going
to need to have a GFCI outlet to plug things into that will protect you from
getting shocked and then for safety equipment pretty
important to have a set of goggles you won’t have gloves actually we’re not
going to be using latex you want to go with rubber gloves for this and then of
course a respirator and the respirator needs to have ovie and AG o V stands for
organic vapor and a G is acid gas and it’s really important to have a
respirator that protects against those two things so the first thing we’re
going to set up here is the degree sink tank when you buy the caswell kit it
comes with the stuff called SP degreaser and you mix it with one and a half
gallons of distilled water now we’re gonna add in one pound of this degreaser
powder which is half the bag just gonna go ahead and mix this up real quick
ideally you’d like to use a wooden paint stick but this is all I could find so
it’ll have to do and now we’ll need to heat the degreaser to around 150 to 200
degrees and actually you know what I forgot that’s what I’ll be using the
crock-pot for so it’s kind of pointless to mix it up in this bucket so here I’ve
got the crock-pot just pick this thing up from Walmart for like 20 bucks and I
believe on low or medium it should get it to around 150 to 200 and that’s what
we’re looking for and this is where I’ll dip the parts through or soak the parts
in before I run up to the plating process alright guys so the degreaser setup is
all done and now I’m gonna move on to getting the plating tank ready to go the
first thing we’ll need to construct for the plating tank is a bar which goes
over the top of it and then you hang the parts from that we’re going to build
that out of this half-inch copper pipe so I’m gonna cut the pipe down to 14
inches sit cut yo next up we’re gonna flatten out the last inch and a half of
the bar with a hammer here alright I’ve got both ends of the bar flattened out
here they’re not quite straight but not a big deal so what I’m gonna do now is
put it on the edge of the table and Bend each end over 90 degrees all right now
let’s check to see how this tank bar fits on the bucket not bad that’ll do
next step is to add in one and a half gallons of distilled water into the
bucket one thing I should mention about the tank bar is it needs to be made out
of something that’s conductive since we’ll be hooking up the power supply to
it so I wouldn’t copper tubing because it’s cheap and easy to work with now
I’ll need to add the actual plating solution into the plating tank so for
Part A which is this fluid right here we will need 13 ounces and then Part B is a
like a crystal form we’ll need 36 ounces that’ll be 36 ounces and weight and then
for the zinc brightener which is this right here another fluid that we’ll need
half a teaspoon and then we’ve already got one and a half gallons of distilled
water in the tank so I’m gonna measure out these materials and Poorman so the amount of solution that was in
this part a bottle was already 13 ounces but guess it didn’t hurt to measure it
out anyways for Part B I’m gonna guess this is already 36 ounces I’m gonna go
ahead wait here yep 36 ounces so I’m gonna pour the whole bag into the
plating tank it’s gonna go ahead and mix this up a stirring stick trying to
breathe any fumes or splash it it gets in your eye that’s probably not good and
last but not least is a zinc brightener so it calls for half a teaspoon which is
gonna be like not even a tenth of an ounce so I’m just gonna add just a
smidge to this tank just a little drip it’s all
it takes now that the plating solution is ready to go I’m gonna throw the lid
back on while we get the anodes ready to go so one thing to keep in mind with the
plating solution is it will increase the amount of condensation that’s in the air
so if you’re doing a lot of plating I would recommend doing it in a
well-ventilated area or just doing it in a separate garage because that
condensation could lead to issues with rusting of your tools and anything
that’s inside the shop now for the anodes we’re gonna cut a quarter inch
piece all the way up or most of the way up and Bend that up and hang it on the
side of the tank here so it shows right here in the manual what that looks like
so we’re just gonna cut that piece up with a set of tin snips now I don’t have
any tin snips so I’m gonna use just gnarly pair of scissors that should work so both plates should look something
like that it doesn’t have to be pretty now I’m
going to set the anodes in the tank but before I do that the instructions say to
wrap each anode with rolled gauze and this is the stuff that sticks back onto
itself and I’m not exactly sure why the anodes need to be a raft I should
probably look into that just for curiosity’s sake so the anodes are ready to go but before
I drop them in the tank I’ll need to connect them with a connecting wire here
so I built this out of just regular 14 gauge wire and then a set of alligator
clips and the wire needs to reach about halfway around the tank so about that
length right there is good and I’m gonna set these anodes 180 degrees away from
each other I’m gonna drop it all the way in and then Bend this tab that we cut
over the edge of the tank and then the other end node it’s gonna go on this
side Bend it over the lip of the tank and I’ll take my wire with the alligator
clips clip it onto one clip it on the other and we are set now the last two
things we’ll need to drop in the tank are a pump or it’s like an agitator and
it’s got a filter inside of it so actually you’ll need to pull the carbon
filter if you buy the cazel kit you’ll need to pull the carbon filter out of it
to show you what what that is so it’s down inside of here you want to leave
that carbon filter out probably throw some gloves on for this we’ve got that and the other thing we’ll
need a drop in is called a bucket heater so we’ll need to heat the fluid to 110
degrees this particular heater keeps it at 110 degrees and I’ll link this one
down below in the description so simply just drop this all the way to the bottom
of the tank all right we’ve got the anodes we’ve got the pump we’ve got the
heater so time to heat up the plain tank as well as the degreaser tank in the
back there at the crock-pot and we get these warm and try my first part through
here and one more thing I need to mention with the plating tank is when
you get it full of fluid you need to take a sharpie and a mark on the side of
the bucket the level here that way as the level drops you’ll know how much to
fill it back up and like I was saying earlier you want to have everything
plugged into a GFCI outlet and I’ve also got a surge protector here so I’m gonna
have heater a crock-pot the pump and then the power supply all plugged in
hopefully I don’t trip the breaker all right so I’ve had these heaters going
for about an hour now and I’m gonna check the temp with this infrared heat
gun this should be around 110 103 point for close enough and this needs to be
around 150 which I don’t really see much steam coming out of there so probably
not close to that 94 all right I’ve got it on low right now I’m gonna have to
crank this up to high get it up to 150 in the meantime I’m gonna cut a chunk of
that brass pipe for a copper pipe and prep it and that’ll be my first test
piece through the plating process all right before you start plating anything
important it’s pretty crucial to have something to test out the process on and
with any process whether you’re painting powder coating or plating the surface
preparation is everything that counts for like 70 80 percent of
while you’re plating job trip will turn out good or will turn out like crap so
there’s variety of ways you can go about prepping the part you could sandblast it
like with this sand blaster I’ve got here you could use sandpaper see what
else says here like a nylon abrasive wheel light buff and polish you could
use polishing wheels what I’ll be using is a scotch brite wheel here on a
buffing machine since that is what I’m most familiar with and I’ve had really
good luck with them in the past so scotch-brite wheel did a really good
job cleaning this thing up that’s all it took to get this part ready to go so
let’s check this degreaser tank once again and we’re up to 153 so that is
right where we need it so next up I’m gonna hang the part using some copper
wire and let it sit in that degreaser tank for five minutes alright I’ve got
my copper tank bar it’s gonna wrap the copper wire around the bar got my test
piece on the wire now I’m just making sure I have enough length on the wire to
drop down into the plating tank into the actual fluid so it looks like it’ll work
pretty good right there but it’s a little long for the degreaser tank but
no big deal and while that’s soaking I’m gonna set up a quick acid bath over here
so this is gonna be a 5% acid meaning I’ll be using two gallons of distilled
water to twelve or thirteen ounces of muriatic acid and I’ll be mixing it up
in this bucket now this step is optional but you might as well take every measure
to make sure this process goes as good as possible so the parts been soaking for a good
five or six minutes and what I’m gonna do next is spray it down with a spray
bottle that has distilled water in it and I’m gonna check for beading so if
the water beads up on the part that means there’s still some oil or dirt
left on it and it needs to be soaked further all right I don’t see any water
beading on the part so I’m gonna move on to the next step and that next step is
dipping the part in the acid bath for two to three seconds and this is simply
just itching the part all right before you drop in the tank
make sure you missed it off with the distilled water to get that acid off of
there before we start plating we’re gonna have to figure out how many amps
we’re gonna need from the power supply and that is determined by the amount of
square inches the part covers so for zinc plating
you’ll go 0.14 amps per square inch now luckily Caswell has this surface area
calculator so that way we can determine the surface area of the part we’re
working with cylinder tube there we go and the tube were working with or the
copper piping is half-inch diameter so the radius is gonna be 0.25 inches and
then let’s see the length let me measure real quick
it is two and a half inches in length two point five and calculate so we ended
up with three point nine two square inches so we’re gonna take that three
point nine two times it by the point one four so three point nine two times point
one four we end up with 0.548 so we’ll need 0.55 amps for this project all
right time to get this baby all powered up so we’re gonna hook the positive side
of the power supply up to this side of the plate and then the negative side is
going to go to the tank bar and that will lead to the part so got everything
hooked up and now we’re gonna turn it on and adjust the amperage so this button
here is the output on/off button hit that so now we’re powered up and we’re
gonna be looking for 0.548 eight amps so this is the adjustment knob here crank
that down to five four eight eight so five four eight that’s gonna go up
and down a little bit we’re set right there let’s take a look inside the tank
and see what’s going on and already you can see that test piece change in color
so we’re gonna let it sit in there for 20 minutes come and check on it and it
should be done oh and I almost forgot to plug in that pump that’s pretty
important hear that stuff agitating in there and guys don’t forget to wear some
eye protection while you’re doing this it doesn’t take much for the stuff to
splash up and get in your eye and that’s never good so play it safe alright the
20 minutes is up let’s take a look at this part but I was were pulling it out
we’re gonna spray it off with distilled water inside the bucket that way we’re
keeping all of this plating fluid inside the tank and we’re not washing it down
the drain so right now the plating looks pretty dull but I’m gonna throw it on a
polishing we and it’s just shine it right up so on
this side of the buffing machine I’ve got a loose wheel and I’m gonna use a
white Rouge they call it and this should bring out the zinc plating pretty good after a quick buff you can see the zinc
plating came out pretty good got a nice shine to it but ultimately I
would like to skip the polishing process the parts should come out of the plating
tank looking just like this just because I’m curious I’m gonna scrape on this
test piece with a scalpel and see how strong the plating is so I scraped on
that pretty good with the knife and it just barely broke through the plating so
I would say that stuff is pretty strong should hold up really good on hardware
so the nice thing about this caswell kit is it comes with this manual which is a
huge resource pretty much has every scenario for troubleshooting here so
with this case I had a burnt plate it was like a dark grey and the cause of
that could be too much current so I may have to lower the amperage may have
calculated that surface area wrong so on the next test piece I’m gonna make some
adjustments and one more thing I’m gonna try to is adding a little bit more
brightener to the solution the next batch of parts will be the brake pedal
bolt shock bolts and kick starter bolt and the first step in the prep process
is to clean them up with the scotch brite wheel here on the grinder all right so the bolts are prepped and
ready to go and I had this random thought something cool I can do with
these bolts is smooth out the heads a little bit so I’ve got this pretty cool
sanding drum I’ll show you here this is like a rubber expanding drum and it’s
got a sandpaper belt on it this thing works really good for smoothing out any
type of metal so you can see some of the cast knee marks on these bolts I’m just
gonna hit it really quick with that sanding drum and should clean it up
really nicely man these bolts turned out super cool I
wish I could leave them looking just like that got the bolts wired up here so
now I’m just gonna drop these parts in the degreaser tank do a little bead test
with these parts everything looks good with that it’s gonna hang them on the
bar real quick and into the acid they go and now they’re ready for the plating
tank so I did all my math for this batch of parts and I’ll need 1.4 amps 1.4 I’m
gonna run this batch for 10 minutes flip it around 180 degrees run for another 10
and hopefully it turns out a lot better than last time so I think I’m finally
starting to get this stuff figured out originally this batch came out with a
grade Olek and finish but I spent a few hours doing some research and just a lot
of trial and error and I think I got the process down pretty good still need some
more fine-tuning though but overall pretty happy with how these ones turned
out hopefully I can replicate that for the rest of the bolts on the bike so the
changes I made were mostly with this plating tank oh dang I need to fill up
this love a little bit more but the first thing I did was heat up the tank
and then pull this heater out I believe the finish on this heating
element was affecting the finish on my parts and then I pulled these anodes out
clean them up on the scotch brite wheel and the last adjustment I made was with
the amperage so instead of calculating the surface area the part and setting
the amperage based off of that what I did instead is set the part and play the
tank hook everything up turn the amperage down pretty far and then adjust
it upwards from there and as soon as the part has bubbles coming off of it that
indicates the plating process is taking place that’s like the perfect setting
for the amperage and anything above that is burning the plating and anything
below that the plating process isn’t happening at all so I had really good
luck with doing that instead and for the next run of parts I’m gonna pull the
motor mount off the bike there are a bit corroded
and rusted and give those a shot I just finished up prepping all those Hardware
on the buffing machine with the scotch brite wheel and now it is time to hang
it so this time around I’ll be using 18 gauge wire instead of a 12 gauge I was
using before that 12 gauge wire was just way too thick and it was super hard to
wrap around bolts and stuff now I’ve got everything hung that wire made it so
much easier this stuff I just grabbed at Ace Hardware alright so I’ve got a
couple these bolts set up in the plating tank I decided that the amount of Parts
I had to set up was a little too much I’m just gonna try to do small batches
out of time I think it makes it easier so one more thing I’ve been trying is
hooking up the wires opposite so negative to the anodes and positive to
the tank bar and what this is gonna do as soon as I turn the power supply on
it’s gonna remove any of the old plating that’s left over so you want to make
sure you have all the old plating gone before you throw a new plate on gonna
let this stuff deep plate for about five minutes all right I’ve had that stuff
deep plating I’m gonna switch these wires back over then I’m gonna turn this
thing on I’m gonna start at 1 amp slowly go up from there and while I’m turning
this up I’m watching the parts inside of here waiting for little air bubbles to
start going to the surface you can see they’re turning gray like a dull grey
but as soon as I get to the right amperage they’ll start to plate and have
a shiny finish to them so I’ve got it set at 3 amps which I thought was a
little high but you can see there is some bubbles come to the surface and
around the wire the foam that indicates that the plating process is taking place
so I’m gonna let these go for about 5 minutes alright let’s take a peek and
see how these things turned out holy crap that’s awesome exactly what I was
after after I’m done with the plating process
all the parts up and let them air dry for a
couple hours before touching them with bare hands
if you touch them with your bare hands the oil in your skin will actually react
with the plating and you’ll end up with black fingerprints on the parts so I
think I’m getting this process figured out pretty good this is my latest batch
turned out awesome and what I’m trying over here is I’ve got a bunch of washers
and nuts here that I stand blasted and I’m gonna see how the same last thing
works with the plating process all right I’ve got the hardware done that was
previously sandblasted and you can kind of see it’s got like a rough somewhat
textured finish on it so typically with plating the shinier the part is
beforehand the better the outcome is so if you have a same blasted part it’s
gonna have like that rough textured feel to it even after plating you can see
there’s a big difference here between this nut which was scotch brite it
beforehand and then this Hardware here which was sandblasted so if you’re going
for the textured look sandblasting is a way to go before or if you want the
shiny almost chrome look then I would recommend Scotch riding or polishing up
your hardware before so one issue I was running into is this like dual finish I
mean it looks shiny but you can see on the head of this bolt
it’s got like almost like a water spot and I tracked that down to not having
enough agitation in the tank as soon as I turned that pump on that issue went
away so keep that in mind guys oh and one more thing I’ve noticed that makes a
big difference with plating is how many wires you have hanging from the tank bar
if you have one it´ll plate a lot more efficiently but say if you have two or
three or more it is a little harder to get the right amperage for plating and
you end up with a gray dull finish this is the next batch that I’ll be plating
we’ve got soon our bolts axles linkage bolts a couple small things over here
I’m really glad I decided to plate this stuff because the smearing bolt was
already starting to rust and I hadn’t and got the bite together previously I
had scotch brite of this summer bolt and it’s left it bare so that’s exactly why
you need to plate stuff or put some coating over bare steel it’ll rust right
away so as I’m walking out into the shop
starting to realize this is looking like a meth lab out here imagine if someone
walked in and saw this whole setup another issue I ran into is getting a
salt connection all the way to the part so you’ll notice I have some corrosion
here on the tank bar and if you let that build up the connection will go away so
when you don’t have a good connection you’ll notice on the power supply it
reads zero and as soon as I slide this down to a good connection right there
it’ll jump back up and it’s something else I’ve run into as well is using old
wire that already has plating buildup on it and it doesn’t allow a solid
connection right to the part so if you’re having issues getting a solid
plate maybe try starting with a fresh wire – and for the tank bar just
occasionally hit it with scotch brite and clean it up so another way you can
test it see if you have the right amperage for the part is by pulling the
part out of the solution slightly let me turn this power supply on and I’m gonna
hold the wire lift up the bar slightly and you’ll see that fizzing as it comes
out of the water so you just want a slight fizzing you don’t want it
bubbling out of control or else that will indicate too high of an amperage
got the next batch of hardware all prepped up with the Scotch right wheel
this stuff should turn out mint so I’m in the middle of plating this latest
batch of parts and this batch that just came out has like a white blotchy kind
of haze to it and a couple things you can do to help combat that is add in
more zinc brightener to the tank I would say every five to 10 batches through and
if that doesn’t help another thing to try is throw a test piece in the plating
tank for 20 minutes and that should remove any impurities or contamination
in the tank one thing you can do if you end up with a white haze on your plating
is grab some polish pretty much any metal polish will do and it should
brighten that zinc right up and add another layer protection to it
I was having some issues with plating some of these larger bolts like the
axles and sooner and bolt and so I called the guys at Caswell and they gave
me some great ideas on how to fix that so originally this front axle came out
with a dull gray finish just wasn’t getting enough amperage to plate the
whole thing and what they were saying is when you have a bolt that’s hollow on
the inside you need to block that off in order for only the outside to be
plated when you have it hollow or open it’s going to want to plate the inside
and the outside and this power supply just doesn’t have enough amps to plate
the whole thing and what I’ve got set up here for the sonoran bolt is silicone
plugs on the end these are plugs for powder coating I had
the same setup on this front axle and look how this thing turned out it is
absolutely beautiful so glad I got that resolved the guys at castle are super
helpful and one more thing to keep in mind is all the old plating on the bolt
needs to be removed so I prepped this with a scotch brite wheel looks like all
the plating is off of it but there’s still some plating embedded in the
material and you need to soak or dunk the part in periodic acid for a couple
minutes and once it stops fizzing that means all of the old plating is off of
there and it’s ready for a new plate oh and I set up another tank here the
bucket wasn’t quite big enough for these larger bolts and so I just got this
plastic tub and it seems like it’s working pretty good I’m gonna walk you
guys through the whole process one last time so just gonna dunk this part in the
degreaser tank for a couple minutes and I’m gonna do a water break test spraying
it with distilled water and looking for water that’s beating up on the part then
we’re gonna dip it in the acid bath so you want to leave it in here until it
stops busy there’s a little bit of fizzing going on
so I’ll probably leave it in here for two to three minutes after spraying off
the part with the spray bottle going to hang it here
in the platelet tank and we are ready to plate it’s got turn the power supply on
got it cranked up to four and a half amps so we’ll see what happens with it
you can see some fizzing going on here so I’m gonna let this plate for about
five minutes and then check on it just pull this thing out of the plating tank
washed it off in a bucket of fresh water and as you can tell this thing turned
out sweet pretty stoked at how this is working out when you’re doing larger
bolts like this rear axle you definitely want to make sure you have plenty of
zinc brightener in the tank and you want to have that fluid temperature up to 110
degrees those two things are really important so I just finished up with the
rear axle and it didn’t turn out quite as shiny as the other ones you can see
underneath the plating there’s some pitting here so this rear axle is pretty
rusted beforehand so keep that in mind if you have a really rusted bolt you’re
gonna see some pitting like you see right here it’s gonna show through the
zinc plating when you’re all finished up I’m all finished up with plating and I’m
pretty stoked with how this stuff turned out now it’s a bit of a learning curve
to learn the plating process but trust me it’s all worth it so the cool thing
about zinc plating is you have color options after you’re done plating
you could add a black yellow this right here I have is a yellow chromate and as
it says here on the cam I’m gonna mix 1 to 2 ounces with 1 gallon of distilled
water and we should have a finish somewhat similar to this bolt here in
order for the chromate to work it needs to be heated up to 85 degrees so I’m
gonna drop this heater in the bucket for about 15 minutes and get it up to
temperature I’m gonna go ahead and check the temperature of the solution here
91.9 a little warm but that’s okay so the part that I’m gonna try the yellow
chromate on is gonna be the shock bolt so I’m gonna dip it in the acid bath for
a few seconds here kind of swirl it around get that acid activating and then
I’m gonna spray it off with the water bottle that’s filled with distilled
now we’re ready to dip the bolt into the chromate solution here but you
definitely want to wear a respirator for this this solution is pretty nasty
before I throw this respirator on I’m going to explain how it works a little
bit so you just swirl the bolt around in the solution for about 20 to 30 seconds
until you get the color that you’re wanting and then pull it out and dip it
in fresh water man I love how that turned out
color looks sweet so I’m gonna let this dry for a couple hours and actually when
it’s fully dry more color should come out of it you’ll be able to see the blue
purple and yellow hues and one more thing to mention to this chromate
actually adds another layer of protection against rust and corrosion so
pretty sweet stuff and there’s another option for how you can finish hardware –
you don’t like any of the chromates or this polish look you can add a brush
finish to the bolt what we’re gonna do here is come over to the buffing machine
it’s got a fine scotch brite wheel on it and we’re just gonna apply light
pressure to the bolt and you even want to add too much pressure and go through
the plating but just a little bit of pressure will end up with a brushed
finish it actually looks pretty cool and it’ll actually show you what it looks
like when you burn through the plating and this is kind of a durability test as
well now give it a brushed finish just gonna apply some light pressure here now
you can see the difference between the chrome-like finish and the brush finish
right there I actually kind of prefer the brush finish over the chrome finish
so pretty cool stuff now I’m going to apply heavy pressure to the bolt and
you’ll see what it looks like when you burn through the plating so I held it on the wheel for a good
solid 3-4 seconds and you can see that little color difference there right
there that is all the way through the plating so you definitely don’t want to
do that all right what finish do you guys prefer we’ve got a yellow chromate
regular is the plated finish or zinc plated with a brushed finish let me know
down in the comments section so now I’m all finished up with plating and I
decided to leave everything just with the standard zinc finish I like the
yellow chromate look pretty cool but I don’t think it would fit that great with
this bike and as far as the chrome-like finish I’m usually not a big fan of that
stuff you know I like things more plain or like with a brushed finish but for
this stuff I think it’ll be a nice subtle touch so I bolted a few of these
bolts on did the ones for this cover here not for the cylinder and I think
they look sweet just that nice bright shiny finish is a nice addition to the
bike I tell you what it’s all in the small little details when you’re
building stuff like this did the bolts for the master cylinder cap did the kick
starter bolt as well this stuff just adds a nice little pop to the bike and
like I was talking about at the beginning of the video surface
preparation is like 70 or 80 percent of how your finish turns out if you want a
nice bright finish on your hardware you got to start with a shiny bolt and so
these scotch-brite wheels have been working really good for me for prep this
one over here is a rougher wheel I use that for heavier rust smoothing out
bolts this side has a finer wheel and this is the one that’s going to give you
a nice shiny finish before you run the bolt through the plating process and
actually sell these over on my website I’ll link them down below for you guys
and one more thing I didn’t mention before in the video is some of these
bolts have like a recessed head and you can’t really get in there with a
scotch-brite wheel so what I was doing is cutting up an old wheel kind of in
quarter or like fold it up and so that way you can get inside the head of the
bolt here and clean that out and that makes a big difference in getting the
head of the bolt looking really good all right so now that I’m all finished up
with plating and trying to learn the whole process of it I thought I would
share a few thoughts on the whole thing in general so first things first is it
actually worth doing plating at home having your own setup it all depends on
how much you’re gonna be doing if you’re always working on bikes or cars always
needing to be plating hardware it is definitely worth having your own setup
at home that you can just fire up and use at your own will if you’re only
going to be doing one bike build one car project just like one batch of parts
it’s definitely not worth having your own setup just because the initial cost
of it and then the time to learn the whole process like I said if you’re only
doing one small batch I would go and send up to someone who’s really good at
it and then as far as how long it takes to actually learn the process I spent
probably two or three days just tinkering around trying to learn the ins
and outs of it and so if you follow this video learn from all my mistakes follow
the guide you’re purchasing the Caswell kit it comes with that manual and that
thing is just a huge resource for troubleshooting
you can definitely cut your learning time down to about a day or even shorter
than that so how long does it take to actually plate hardware and have a good
outcome I would say in a whole day I could plate all the hardware on this
bike so really does it take a ton of time once you learn the whole process
and really get things dialed in but like I said learning the process is pretty
time-consuming and you’re gonna need investment time right there and one big
thing with plating is you gotta protect yourself you gotta be wearing gloves
you gotta have a respirator on you have to be wearing goggles or glasses at the
very least you definitely don’t want that stuff going into your lungs going
into your eyes or absorbing into your skin so my thoughts on the casual kit
it’s a really good kit comes with a lot of great information the team over at
Caswell is very helpful I called in a few times to get help with stuff and
they were always really forthcoming with information just super helpful you do
have to go buy a lot more than just the kit itself the biggest thing you have to
have a power supply or a rectifier they call it that’s gonna be one of your
bigger expenses the one I have was about 180 those are available from Caswell as
well the kit itself was I think it runs for about 250 and then I had to buy
about 50 or $60 worth of extra so I needed copper pipe copper wire few
buckets spray bottle just a bunch of little stuff and off to make a full list
of everything I needed besides the kit and the rectifier and
I’ll link it or I’ll put it all down below in the description so for less
than $500 you can get set up and ready to go plating if you think about it I
mean five hundred dollars seems like a lot up front but when you consider how
much it costs to send out one batch to a plated company that could easily be two
or three hundred dollars and I know some of you guys out there would want to turn
this into a business if you watched through this video learn from all my
mistakes put everything into practice I guarantee you within a week you could be
set up plating and have the process perfected where you could be comfortable
taking other people’s parts other people’s Hardware plating them and doing
it as a business so just something to think about for you guys out there or
you could just do it on the side to recoup the cost of the kit so to wrap
everything up in a nutshell plating is kind of frustrating to learn it takes
some time but trust me once you get it down then it’s actually a lot of fun and
it’s a huge part of any project and just the pride of doing your own work –
that’s huge well guys that’s gonna be it for this video I know it was a long one
and I hope you guys enjoyed it and learned a thing or two if you guys would
like to support the channel I do have those cleaning wheels I showed in the
video Oh on the website prime MX comm I’ll have a
link down below I do have a parallel over there as well some hats like this
one here t-shirts long sleeves stickers so
definitely go ahead over there and check out the website and make sure you guys
stay tuned for the next video we’re gonna be putting all this hard work back
on the bike I know what kind of what backwards on the bill that seems you
know took some stuff apart to play some hardware but trust me this thing is
going to be going back together gonna be a bunch of new stuff on it got some
really cool parts that came in a couple weeks ago so I want you guys to stay
tuned for that video coming out soon thanks for watching guys until next time
keep it Prime

100 thoughts on “Ultimate Guide To Making Bolts Look New Again!

  1. Cameron Niemela is the man!!! I just uploaded a video of rebuilding a Drz-125 with a very blown motor on my channel, I would love to get your feedback, you are my inspiration!

  2. Кэмерон видео познавательное. Но хотелось бы перевод на Русский язык. Можно?

  3. I love your videos. And your builds and mechanical skills really impress me and ive been riding and racing for over 30 years. Amongst the multitude of bikes i own i still have my KX-125 that i won the 1985 Virginia state 125A state championships on hasnt been ridden in 25 years but amazingly enough stil runs. I would like have it restored like a 1984 jeff ward works replica to hang up in one of my sports bar. Which brings me to an interesting project i would like to propose to you. Ive done pretty well in my businesses and would like to commission you to build and do a video documentation of the project. If you would like to discuss the details of my proposal please email me at [email protected]

  4. Another cool look would be to drill some select bolts that are sensitive to loosening from vibration and safety wire them. Gives a pretty works trick look. Yes i know thread locker does the same but not as trick looking

  5. Oh wow loved this video 😍 very nice how they all finished out and I like the yellow finish but that’s only because it would tie on with my build rmz450 but I also like the chrome finish for a show bike but I also like the dull ish one as that would tie in with your build so it depends on what your building the bike for. And thanks Cameron I learned from this video .

  6. that’s a good video, it confirms my thoughts that it is an expensive science experiment.
    I love the finish but remember the axles go through the wheel and you won’t even see it .
    bear in mind it also increases the diameter of precision parts in some cases.
    think the gold finish would look fantastic for bolts on your. bike

  7. great video! I send my bolts to pacific plating, its like 60 bucks for a batch of all bike bolts. I do it when I restore a bike but I didn't know about the difference that prep will make. Next time I want to try that scotbright prep, those bolts look amazing! You are making me want to tear my 2005 cr250 down, but it only has 10 hours on it and I don't want to touch the factory bolts with a wrench.

  8. Great tips Cameron. My favorite one was watching for bubbles to find the correct amperage. One question I have is, how long will the solutions last on between plating when not in use? More in depth, how long can I store it before I can’t use it anymore?

  9. Put the heater in a larger bucket and put the busket with the plating soultion on top of it and fill the larger bucket with water until they are at the same height. That way you can keep the solution at the right temp.

  10. I've got a 1969 Suzuki 250cc that needs restored. I'm thinking of doing everything myself but honestly I might have to just pay bookoo bucks if I really want it done sometime in the next decade. I like your garage setup! I could see myself someday working with metal and restoring things for fun.

  11. That’s awesome, Your going to be a great restoration bike builder and u are already !! Love it … build a classic two stoke street bike

  12. I got a cool trick to remove rust that works great with little to no work Get some crl toilet cleaner and soak anything rusty like a hour later you can just wipe and wash off the rust may need to Repeat if really bad I hope you try it sometime if you never have before and let me know what you think

  13. Love the videshow…G9 gerage has a great video. On this also. You guys videos are top shelf! Thanks for sharing this, I think I am going to give plating a try… Cam Strong!

  14. Little kid *mom let me watch one more video, please

    Mom * Ok, one more!

    45 mins later* Little kid* just one more!

  15. Thankyou so much for this video buddy.. Absolutely FANTASTIC tutorial, and lovely bikes too 😎😎

    Could you please answer a question.. In order too get the gold affect, do the parts have to be plated silver first or can the parts just go straight to the gold coating??

    So you clean them, acid dip them and then straight to the gold coating?

    And again thanks so much for this tutorial, and much love from the UK 😎😎

  16. Cameron, buddy, your videos always deliver! I've been lamenting the cost in both money and time to either buy new hardware or have my old stuff re-plated on my 2001 KDX 200 project for a while now. Seriously had no idea that anyone made a kit to do this at home. My brother and I are also rebuilding my nephew's KTM 65 XC and a Yamaha Wolverine quad. Add in my love of old cars and trucks, and this is definitely a worthwhile investment. Thanks for being the guy who shows the rest of us how to get it done!

  17. Hi that bike will be to nice to ride and get mucky it’s an show bike great video great content really interesting to watch keep the videos coming nice to see you back

  18. Cameron, this is over the top COOL! Hey, try some GOLD! Seriously, I think that what color I'd prefer depends on what I'd be doing. So much of the blemishes you showed are not going to be seen. Axles…no worries! I used to work at Boeing where they anodized the huge Wing Spars and Stringers etc…They had HUGE tanks for this as long as a 747 Wing . (Over 100ft long) I'm no Chemist but every so often I did overtime where I tied these parts to a metal rack using aluminium wire to secure it to the rack for conductivity. That was a boring, tedious job. But you explained a lot. Thanks and I enjoy what u do.

  19. Nice results! Regarding the mild pitting from the rust at 33:35, you might want to try some de-rusting via electrolysis before attacking the part with the scotch bright wheel. Electrolytic de-rusting reforms the material by removing the oxygen from the oxidized part. You might get lucky and recover some of the material and thus reduce the pitting. You already have most of the set up you need. You just need to get one more bucket. One warning : careful with stainless steel when doing this – never use stainless steel or stuff containing chrome as your container or the sacrificial element or you will get very nasty, hazardous vapours and gases. So stick to normal iron/steel for your sacrificial element and plastic for your container.

  20. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

  21. Hi, thanks for your story on plating. I own a large kit myself but since the weather here in Germany is still cold I have not tried plating yet. For me, the question of economy was not important since I had used a commercial plating service a few times and yes the quality was good but it still was a catastrophic experience.

    First I am a pilot and I cannot always pick the time at home to drop the items off at the shop during the week.

    Second they want larger quantities and not just a few bolts. Now sometimes it is only one bolt or special item that cannot be purchased new anymore so you have no choice and pay their minimum batch fee (which is not cheap). So a 10 dollar item can quickly become an 80 Dollar restoration project.

    Third and most important, you have to document the items you drop off because they keep losing pieces which are irreplaceable for you but just bolts for them and trust me those part will not reappear.

    Now, fourth, it takes time because they might not be nickel plating for the next few days so It always took at least one week.

    It was then when I started my next restoration project, a Jaguar E-Type V12, and decided to do everything myself and not depend on anyone. The time spent to find lost items, the waiting time to get whatever they had not lost back and the time to explain to them what and how you want your parts done is way too much for me. Not to mention to drive 15 Miles to their shop and 15 Miles back each time.

    Cameron, your bolts look just perfect and I am more than willing to spend the time once to get set up and save in the long run. And trust me, as soon as your restoration buddies find out what you can do and how good the parts come out (because you care for those parts) they all show up and fill the fridge in your garage at least with their favorite beer 😁😁😁
    Greetings, Bernhard

  22. Hi again, watched the video again and noticed that you said it takes 0.14A per square inch. I bought my kit in England at Gateros plating (kit looks like yours) and in their manual they state 0.1A per square inch which is almost 30%less than what you had used on the dull coppertube. Maybe that works better to estimate required Amperage.
    Greetings Bernhard.

  23. Hi Cameron, looked at those Pryme 3M polishing pads. I would need 2 or 3 of the 8inch fine discs but cannot find them without the coarse.
    Can you send some and I can Paypal the money to you. I use a US shipping adress in Texas.
    Greetings Bernhard

  24. Nice watched your video on ultrasonic cleaner so I bought one never looked back today I went and bought a zinc plating kit a guy about an hour away sells them so I will be plating my bolts at the weekend

  25. Could you do this in a temp controlled crock pot and eliminate the heater? Just wondering I'm getting ready to buy the kit

  26. This guy has wayyyyyy too much time on his hand …. we ride dirt bikes NOT garage Queen Harleys …. my 450 KTM has Zap straps instead of bolts ….. And i love it !

  27. When you used the Caswell calculator, first it was set to „plate the inside too ….. yes“ but when you got the result it was set to „No“. This tells me why that surface calculation went wrong.

  28. Hi Cameron, I received your 3M style disks and tested that fine one today and honestly: I am impressed, really impressed. I had an aluminium part from a waterpump and it was in aweful condition so I vapor blasted it and ended up with a silky smooth surface then I tried your disk and without any pressure polished the surface to a high gloss. Honestly, it took no effort at all and within minutes it was better than any of my fabric polishing disks would be able to. I did not need compound which usually splatters all over the place. I hope you sell a lot of them. I will definitely come back for more in the future. Maybe you should also get some small ball shaped ones for polishing in tight corners with s grinder. I would buy it.
    Greetings Bernhard

  29. Please show me how to get a stuck oil drain plug out. I was gonna change gear oil on my husky cr125 and the drain plug just turns around and wont come out.

  30. If you have pitted areas you can copper plate first, and buff the copper to fill in the pits then zinc or chrome over.

  31. I got that exact same kit, and I love it. I restore 1960’s Hondas and use it to replate old fasteners, brackets, and other hard-to-find parts.

  32. Need to get one of these plateing kits not just for bolts i need to yellow cromate my reed stoppers as my coating as come away. Good job Cameron

  33. I follow you from Italy, best channel ever.
    Thanks for your video Cameron and good luck for everything.

  34. Personally I restore to original. So I use yellow chromate on electrical fittings usually; bright zinc elsewhere 🙂

  35. Hi Cameron does the zinc plating alter the dimensions of the bolts? Do they still fit into the bearings.

  36. hey Cameron my names Dee I watch your channel all the time I noticed you have a crf250 2005 can you put the new plastics from like a 2013- and up ? im getting mixed answers some ppl say you can change the( front pieces and number plate only) just not the back two side pieces and back fender without modifying the bike and others say nothing fits at all ? what's your option on this subject ? thanks boss keep riding !! pceee

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *